Taper pre-boring would certainly help ensure that there is equal material to remove from all sides of the reamer (equal forces), help to naturally align the reamer, and also remove material to help reduce the effort and the chances (and time) of anything occurring that would produce off-axis cutting of the reamer. All very good reasons for first taper boring before reaming. Granted its not absolutely necessary but it should improve the odds of producing a concentric chamber and one that is more close to the reamer's diameter.
What are some after chamber checks and proceedures you do?
- Thread starter DSM
- Start date
B.Larson
New member
No Pilot Bushing...????
On most reamers... one flute will be doing most of the work......wouldn`t a pilot help it guide...???
On most reamers... one flute will be doing most of the work......wouldn`t a pilot help it guide...???
Dusty Stevens
Hollow Point Dispenser
How does dwight s. do his? How does billy s. do his?
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Billy does/ (did) use a pusher I made for him several years ago. I guess he still uses it???
Dusty Stevens
Hollow Point Dispenser
Yea i know Jerry- its a nice unit. What i was getting at for mike there was how do the smiths at the top of the equipment lists do their chambers? Do they pre taper bore em? Do they use a pusher and let the reamer follow the bore? I know, and you know but thats not the point here. BTW I copied your pusher and it works real good.
to keep the reamer from chattering
Not to say who is right or wrong but the point I was trying to make, and I hope that the drawing here clears this up, is that if the reamer should move off-axis to its original one, during reaming, the reamer "pusher" then moves forward due to the end of the reamer having traveled in an arc, and the end of the reamer cannot now realign itself back on axis unless the pusher moves backwards. The point I was trying to make originally is that a flat-faced reamer pusher has no means to help realign a reamer that goes off-axis to the bore. Another way to look at this too is that a flat-face and square to bore-axis reamer pusher will not tend to push the reamer off-axis.
Attachments
Again, wrong
Now draw the reamer around your centerline and see that "...forward......travels in an arc....realign" doesn't apply.
If it doesn't work for you, make the reamer shank fatter, draw it an inch wide if need be to see that if the reamer bends in any way it gets LONGER, that the absolute shortest it can be is when it's dead straight.
Why should we ignore "right and wrong"??? That's the whole problem with the world today, "there is no right and wrong, everything is equally valid"...."everybody is equally right, every method is equally effective and everybody wins"
Again, wrong
al
maybe that's why people like NASCAR
Wayne Shaw
Active member
People ought not be so headstrong about what they THINK is the best way to chamber, but simply offer a suggestion. After all, many winning barrels have been done with a steady. Believe it or not, I have read where a smith uses a steady, starts the reamer, the loosens the fingers so the barrel is floating. Many ways, people need to find what works for them.
Dusty Stevens
Hollow Point Dispenser
that is a proven winning method. but since he dont write about it on the net its gotta be wrong
What does "how the thing works" have to do with "winning method?"
I didn't say anything about "winning method" or even "better" I'm simply stating that the post by HiWall is inaccurate, because it IS. The fact that I think the pusher method is better is nothing more than my personal opinion. It is an opinion based on not only using all the methods but by having other's do work for me using their "winning methods" but it is still simply my opinion........ that said, the fact that a bending reamer makes the system longer is a fact.
Draw the steenking picture.
Or better yet, understand Jerry's pictures right here in this thread!
It ain't rocket science
And there's not one experienced guy with a borescope that hasn't seen some "winning barrels" that look like they were chambered with a DE'Walt....
al
I didn't say anything about "winning method" or even "better" I'm simply stating that the post by HiWall is inaccurate, because it IS. The fact that I think the pusher method is better is nothing more than my personal opinion. It is an opinion based on not only using all the methods but by having other's do work for me using their "winning methods" but it is still simply my opinion........ that said, the fact that a bending reamer makes the system longer is a fact.
Draw the steenking picture.
Or better yet, understand Jerry's pictures right here in this thread!
It ain't rocket science
And there's not one experienced guy with a borescope that hasn't seen some "winning barrels" that look like they were chambered with a DE'Walt....
al
Sorry guys, got carried away..... NOT Jerry's pix but those posted by DSM right after Jerry's post.
I do get carried away by stuff I believe in, and this is one place Jerry and I agree.
But...Jerry being a kinder gentler soul than I'm, a teacher in the grand tradition of buddha and Mahatma Ghandi, I should just leave my forceful comments at the door and let him explain it. Not only does he have credentials and a working brain, he's just NICER than me.
I'll back on out now and let the Big Boys talk.
al
I do get carried away by stuff I believe in, and this is one place Jerry and I agree.
But...Jerry being a kinder gentler soul than I'm, a teacher in the grand tradition of buddha and Mahatma Ghandi, I should just leave my forceful comments at the door and let him explain it. Not only does he have credentials and a working brain, he's just NICER than me.
I'll back on out now and let the Big Boys talk.
al
An observation only not commenting on right or wrong: What you describe and what your picture shows would appear to apply to a Bald Eagle style pusher but would not apply to a Bryant style pusher (such as what DSM's picture shows). Similar pushers but subtly different.
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There's one other thing that keeps popping up in this thread and no one's taking issue with it......the idea that "most reamers only cut on one flute"
Does NOBODY else see the irony in this???
I own only 11 reamers, two of them leave ONE FLUTE chip-free but cut on all the rest.
In other words, 2 reamers cut on all flutes but one, there's ONE FLUTE a liddle lower.
The other 9 cut on all flutes altho there's always a flute or two cutting less.
Until you stone the reamer, then you can make all the flutes equal.
Dude.... if your reamer's only cutting on one flute,
MAYBE IT'S YOU!
Maybe, just MAYBE not Dave Kiff's fault.
hmmmmm???
al
Does NOBODY else see the irony in this???
I own only 11 reamers, two of them leave ONE FLUTE chip-free but cut on all the rest.
In other words, 2 reamers cut on all flutes but one, there's ONE FLUTE a liddle lower.
The other 9 cut on all flutes altho there's always a flute or two cutting less.
Until you stone the reamer, then you can make all the flutes equal.
Dude.... if your reamer's only cutting on one flute,
MAYBE IT'S YOU!
Maybe, just MAYBE not Dave Kiff's fault.
hmmmmm???
al
Dusty Stevens
Hollow Point Dispenser
ive never had a problem with any of Kiff's products. the only ones I'll buy.
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
If using a steadyrest, this method of letting the tenon float on the reamer would probably work best. All this is doing is letting one component float while the other component is rigid.
B.Larson
New member
Reamers
After Als name calling statement... I must respond...... in the statement above.....
new reamers will favor one flute......
nothing was mentioned about honing a new reamer.....which should be done...... if the above is obvious.....
after honing..... and all flutes with chips.... are they all cutting evenly...???... How do you tell.....????
In statement above nothing is mentioned...... and no one is blamed for a bad reamer....esp.dave K....who I`ve dealt wih for years...
How does one read into above statement and derives at someones a dude and dave kiffs to blame...?????
This is B.S.
Alinwa..... if you want to name call...... post your real name..... and we`ll get at it.....
as far as STOOL goes..... chiming in...... I thought he was banned from the site.....
bill larson
After Als name calling statement... I must respond...... in the statement above.....
new reamers will favor one flute......
nothing was mentioned about honing a new reamer.....which should be done...... if the above is obvious.....
after honing..... and all flutes with chips.... are they all cutting evenly...???... How do you tell.....????
In statement above nothing is mentioned...... and no one is blamed for a bad reamer....esp.dave K....who I`ve dealt wih for years...
How does one read into above statement and derives at someones a dude and dave kiffs to blame...?????
This is B.S.
Alinwa..... if you want to name call...... post your real name..... and we`ll get at it.....
as far as STOOL goes..... chiming in...... I thought he was banned from the site.....
bill larson
blarson,
I don't ......understand anything ........that's .....being....... said here.......
"Name Calling???"
As most here know, I'm Al Matson, 20211 NE Yacolt Mtn Rd, Yacolt WA 98675...... that's "Al in WA" because I'm Al and live in Washington.
And none of my reamers cut on only one flute
I'm so sorry this fires you all up!
You want a Google Earth link?? I've posted in on the board several times, try the search func.
Meantime, life may be less stressful for you if you post about what you've actually DONE
As opposed to your guesses....
Maybe actually TRY a different setup instead of calling out others for stuff you've never done
I know enough not to post my opinions if they're based only on speculation and I sure won't call "BS" on something I've never done!
al (in wa)
Ohh, and BTW...... no, honing won't help a bad setup
In My Experience