.............Nothin' to it but to do it.- Al
or ya' won't get to it to get at it again!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AU4jtculWHk
Weld recoil lug to Rem 700 action
- Thread starter Mram10
- Start date
or ya' won't get to it to get at it again!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AU4jtculWHk
OP,
Don't contradict your self,or get your panties in a knot by reading this post.
If so - GFY!
Al,
Looks good.
BUT
Not my preference for a pinned lug.
Longitudinal mill cut as not to interrupt the rcvr threads.
Radius of lug pin presents a radius to witness bedding issues.
I've had too many requests to weld blown out pin holes &/or cracks in the front rcvr ring back to the ejection port in recent years.
Don't contradict your self,or get your panties in a knot by reading this post.
If so - GFY!
Al,
Looks good.
BUT
Not my preference for a pinned lug.
Longitudinal mill cut as not to interrupt the rcvr threads.
Radius of lug pin presents a radius to witness bedding issues.
I've had too many requests to weld blown out pin holes &/or cracks in the front rcvr ring back to the ejection port in recent years.
Dan do you mean one small milled slot per pin configured like the Savage locking divot?
Or something else entirely re "longitudinal mill cut
Dan, locating the pins at 3 and 9 o'clock certainly wouldn't be a bad idea. One of mine is done that way, the other is similar to the pic I posted. I also had one with a pin at 12 o'clock and another other at 6 o'clock. None posed any issues with tweaking the bedding after barrel changes. Holland lugs on all three and Pro Bed 2000 bedding compound.
Good shootin'. -Al
alinwa-I don't do SALVAGES.period.
Al's,
Rcvr inverted/up side down in vise.
Mill a slot lengthwise from the rcvr face to a depth as NOT to interrupt the threads.
Offset the through hole in the lug to match.
press the pin into the lug.
Yes,a radius from the pin will be in the bedding as a witness.
You'll NEVER-
bend/twist off a pin.
crack or blow out a piece of the receiver wall.
crack the receiver front ring to the ejection port if there is a catastrophic incident.
Once you use Silly Putty for bedding,you'll throw any modelers clay in the trash!
mwezell
Mike Ezell
I don't see how one pin can break...much less two, if a properly fitting action wrench and recoil lug support is used. There should be nearly zero pressure on the pin. Using two pins is for recoil lug alignment way more than for strength against breaking off when removing a barrel...or tightening.
If using a rear entry wrench and no lug support, I suppose it is possible but if equally lubed when assembled and no rusting, etc, of the parts together, there should be equal(nearly) resistance for the lug to turn with the barrel or with the receiver, assuming no pins at all. What am I missing here?
That resistance will be in the direction of rotation...around the shoulder, not vertically. I'm just not seeing how there would be the possibility for the pin to come out the side of the action. One pin bending and exerting some side force, I can see, marginally. Two pins...I can't wrap my head around breaking out sideways, away from the natural direction of force.
I trust Dan's word for this but I just can't wrap my head around the physics that must be involved, even if done improperly.
If using a rear entry wrench and no lug support, I suppose it is possible but if equally lubed when assembled and no rusting, etc, of the parts together, there should be equal(nearly) resistance for the lug to turn with the barrel or with the receiver, assuming no pins at all. What am I missing here?
That resistance will be in the direction of rotation...around the shoulder, not vertically. I'm just not seeing how there would be the possibility for the pin to come out the side of the action. One pin bending and exerting some side force, I can see, marginally. Two pins...I can't wrap my head around breaking out sideways, away from the natural direction of force.
I trust Dan's word for this but I just can't wrap my head around the physics that must be involved, even if done improperly.
Last edited:
Mike,
Many DIY's are willing & able in short order to screw up an anvil with a feather duster & then to be a democrat about the whole debacle, blame the anvil or feather duster for being defective.
I refuse 15-20 + receiver weld jobs a year for IDIOTS blowing the receiver wall thickness out from double pinned recoil lugs.
Approximately the same quantity for cracked or bent bolt rails by using the wrong cheap tooling to remove or install barrels.
Most rear entry wrenches that do not have FULL length lugs are a disaster waiting to happen with an internet/YouTube/Einstein!!
Dowl pins driven in with a ball peen hammer- cracked - Bubba'd to the point that you couldn't imagine.
Stupidity CAN NOT be FIXED by watching YouTube Video's
Many DIY's are willing & able in short order to screw up an anvil with a feather duster & then to be a democrat about the whole debacle, blame the anvil or feather duster for being defective.
I refuse 15-20 + receiver weld jobs a year for IDIOTS blowing the receiver wall thickness out from double pinned recoil lugs.
Approximately the same quantity for cracked or bent bolt rails by using the wrong cheap tooling to remove or install barrels.
Most rear entry wrenches that do not have FULL length lugs are a disaster waiting to happen with an internet/YouTube/Einstein!!
Dowl pins driven in with a ball peen hammer- cracked - Bubba'd to the point that you couldn't imagine.
Stupidity CAN NOT be FIXED by watching YouTube Video's
mwezell
Mike Ezell
Dan, thank you. I was way over simplifying things. I appreciate you clearing it up for me. I'm sure you see a lot.
"Stupidity CAN NOT be FIXED by watching YouTube Video's"
Dan,
I was always under the impression that everything could be fixed by watching YouTube video's.
How dare you shatter the dreams of so many?
You should see the XP100 action I have that some moron swiss-cheesed the hell out of to "make weight" on a Silhouette pistol.
No thought to the money/time spent on design/strength in case of a catastrophic event. Just start milling slots and holes in the sides and top of the action and bolt!
Guess I'll just have to go back to the boring stuff like Machine Shop Practice, Machinery Handbook, etc.
For the video drones out there those are called "books", you "read" them.
Sorry that was pissy, but I just couldn't help myself.
Oh and maybe listen to the people that you think know what there talking about.
(If you can't tell the difference then you probably shouldn't operate high speed machinery or welding equipment.)
Regards,
Greg
Dan,
I was always under the impression that everything could be fixed by watching YouTube video's.
How dare you shatter the dreams of so many?
You should see the XP100 action I have that some moron swiss-cheesed the hell out of to "make weight" on a Silhouette pistol.
No thought to the money/time spent on design/strength in case of a catastrophic event. Just start milling slots and holes in the sides and top of the action and bolt!
Guess I'll just have to go back to the boring stuff like Machine Shop Practice, Machinery Handbook, etc.
For the video drones out there those are called "books", you "read" them.
Sorry that was pissy, but I just couldn't help myself.
Oh and maybe listen to the people that you think know what there talking about.
(If you can't tell the difference then you probably shouldn't operate high speed machinery or welding equipment.)
Regards,
Greg
Boyd Allen
Active member
Years back I did a review of several Savage related products. One was a grouund lug that had a threaded hole fitted with a fillister head machine screw that had had its head diameter reduced to fit the slot in the faces of Savage actions. It went together really well, on a friend's action that he had faced square. My question is why would this not work on a Remington if a similar slot was added? I know that Savage is a dirty word for many, but skip all that and tell me from a functional point of view, what would be wrong with that sort of modification. BTW, when the factory barrel was reinstalled, the rifle's accuracy was improved.