Viper DP and glue in questions.

J

jo191145

Guest
Let me start with the Viper. It's presently out of the stock. Edge stock.
I'm considering opening up the drop port to allow 30ppc ,30 major to exit. Would this cause any feeding problems with 6 ppc? I think not but always safer to ask those who have experience.

I'm going to re glue the action myself.

Glue action in then paint stock or vice versa? I'm leaning towards paint then glue but,,,,,,,

Any tricks to ensure there's not a lot of epoxy flow out in the port and trigger well or is it all experience?

I'm beginning to think this glue in should be done upside down. Thanks in advance.
 
With my drop ports I always slide the cartridge into the chamber otherwise there is the possibility of the cartridge falling rim first down the drop port. You only have to open up the neck area of the port a few thou.
 
jo191145 said:
Let me start with the Viper. It's presently out of the stock. Edge stock.
I'm considering opening up the drop port to allow 30ppc ,30 major to exit. Would this cause any feeding problems with 6 ppc? I think not but always safer to ask those who have experience.

I'm going to re glue the action myself.

Glue action in then paint stock or vice versa? I'm leaning towards paint then glue but,,,,,,,

Any tricks to ensure there's not a lot of epoxy flow out in the port and trigger well or is it all experience?

I'm beginning to think this glue in should be done upside down. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

What Ray said is correct, you only need to open the neck portion of the port, and just a few thou will allow it to drop. I think I open them to .375, which is plenty to insure that they drop freely.
As to gluing them in, they can be a bit of a pain, but I install the funnel, which you already have done, then do the glue in like any other, except to apply plenty of release agent to the funnel and port area to allow cleanup. This can be the hardest part of the job, especially if you don't use plenty of release agent. Since yours has already been glued before, I'd just mill out enough to give good flow of the epoxy and take it easy around the funnel, leaving it thinner there. That'll help minimize how much flow goes there. It's tough to get clay out of the nooks and crannies between the port and funnel, so I use silly putty to dam them up. It comes out easier, but will likely leak some. I don't have issues with the round falling back into the port rim first, but I think it's from being used to using it. I just toss the round in the loading port and give it a nudge forward at the same time. I would think the 30 caliber stuff would be nose heavy enough to help vs the lighter calibers.
Good luck!--M
 
Last edited:
jo191145 said:
Any tricks to ensure there's not a lot of epoxy flow out in the port and trigger well or is it all experience?
Click to expand...

With the advice you got above, also have plenty of Q-tips and isopropyl alcohol on hand. Any epoxy that flows into the trigger well or drop port can be easily wiped up with damp Q-tips before it starts to set up. Works good on the top side, too, and won't hurt the paint.

Jerry
 
Thanks for all the great advice guys. Seems easier now.

Another tip I learned for oozing top ends is cheap drinking straws cut up in short sections. They'll conform to just about any shape and scoop up a lot of excess. Not all but most. Keeps the q-tip work to a minimum.

Mike, this was gonna be my first 30 cal score gun. I've since bought a 30 BR but now I'm torn about putting it back together without completing the original task. I think I'd best get in touch in the near future before mixing any epoxy.
 
jo191145 said:
Thanks for all the great advice guys. Seems easier now.

Another tip I learned for oozing top ends is cheap drinking straws cut up in short sections. They'll conform to just about any shape and scoop up a lot of excess. Not all but most. Keeps the q-tip work to a minimum.

Mike, this was gonna be my first 30 cal score gun. I've since bought a 30 BR but now I'm torn about putting it back together without completing the original task. I think I'd best get in touch in the near future before mixing any epoxy.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with that...we can't have too many. I like the idea of a switch barrel to do most everything with. I'm planning a 220 Beggs to go along with my 30 Major and 6PPC barrels on my dp viper. It's looking like I may be able to make it even simpler than that, as the new LT32 powder is working in all three. I haven'y tried it myself, but am basing that off of what Greg J. is telling me from testing it in the 220 and 30 Major. It'd be sweet to have one gun, one powder, and three different calibers.--M
 
Interesting, L-32 in the major. What do you normally use Mike. Ever try AA -1680? I know some use it in the 30 ppc but its a bit fast for the 30 BR as far as I could tell.
I just gotta ask. What powder did you use in the major with 155's. I have a ten twist 30 BR tube that I eventually would like to try 150 gn Eazors in. Don't ask why someone built a ten twist BR but for 80$ I couldn't refuse.

I also have a Lilja 20 cal tube and. 20 Beggs reamer that was supposed to go on this rifle. Pulled it apart quite a while ago and forgot about it. Just got laid off and decided to put it back together and now I remember what the plans were but can't see spending money on wants and desires. Darn life works in funny ways:)

Bill fwiw I just use JB cold weld on everything. I'm sure it's not the best and some may argue its horrible but for psi compression capabilitys its pretty high. Shrinkage is almost unmeasurable by lab standards. Good enough for me.
 
jo191145 said:
Interesting, L-32 in the major. What do you normally use Mike. Ever try AA -1680? I know some use it in the 30 ppc but its a bit fast for the 30 BR as far as I could tell.
I just gotta ask. What powder did you use in the major with 155's. I have a ten twist 30 BR tube that I eventually would like to try 150 gn Eazors in. Don't ask why someone built a ten twist BR but for 80$ I couldn't refuse.

I also have a Lilja 20 cal tube and. 20 Beggs reamer that was supposed to go on this rifle. Pulled it apart quite a while ago and forgot about it. Just got laid off and decided to put it back together and now I remember what the plans were but can't see spending money on wants and desires. Darn life works in funny ways:)

Bill fwiw I just use JB cold weld on everything. I'm sure it's not the best and some may argue its horrible but for psi compression capabilitys its pretty high. Shrinkage is almost unmeasurable by lab standards. Good enough for me.
Click to expand...

I don't shoot bullets of that weight in my br rifles but have in ar's chambered for the 30 Major. H322 oughtta be real close.
I've tried aa1680, and it works! I've been shooting n120 because it's the magic pixie dust, just like n133 has been for so long in a ppc. It's likely going away, or at least I'm planning for that to be the case. I've probably got twice the experience with this round as anybody. I can tell you that there are several powders that work well, 120 just works so well that there was no reason to look further, other than price, and now...availability. It's been hard to find for a while.
 
mwezell said:
I've tried aa1680, and it works! I've been shooting n120 because it's the magic pixie dust, just like n133 has been for so long in a ppc. It's likely going away, or at least I'm planning for that to be the case. I've probably got twice the experience with this round as anybody. I can tell you that there are several powders that work well, 120 just works so well that there was no reason to look further, other than price, and now...availability. It's been hard to find for a while.
Click to expand...

With only about 3 pounds of N-120 left, I just ordered 8 pounds of Norma N200. Should work -- I hope. We'll see. This for the plain .30 PPC.

BTW, there was some complaining about Norma 201 powder for the 6PPC back in 2008 (or so) on BR Central, but a man who actually shot both the old (made from cotton) and the new (made from what everyone else uses these days) indicated that after testing, he couldn't see any difference. And, it's no longer the most expensive powder on the block...
 
Charles E said:
With only about 3 pounds of N-120 left, I just ordered 8 pounds of Norma N200. Should work -- I hope. We'll see. This for the plain .30 PPC.

BTW, there was some complaining about Norma 201 powder for the 6PPC back in 2008 (or so) on BR Central, but a man who actually shot both the old (made from cotton) and the new (made from what everyone else uses these days) indicated that after testing, he couldn't see any difference. And, it's no longer the most expensive powder on the block...
Click to expand...

I haven't played with long drop tubes and such, but a case full of 200 works well in the Major. This with 115-118 grain coated bullets. You may need the long drop tube, slow pour method, but I'd say you're right...it should work well in a 30 PPC, also.
 
mwezell said:
...This with 115-118 grain coated bullets. You may need the long drop tube, slow pour method, ...
Click to expand...
Well, that'd be OK, and since I don't use coated bullets, I should need a bit less powder.

Back on topic: My .30 PPC is in a drop-port as well. While I've not put a 6PPC barrel back on it, a number of guys at Rockingham have done a .30 BR on a Viper DP, using rebated rims.

The only issues anyone ever mentioned were with the .30BR configuration. Not *problems* really, just (& only some guys) an occasional hang-up, as the case head is larger than the rebated rim, and can lever a bit into the bottom of the boldface with that Remington-style boltface. It's probably the extractor groove really, but to me, it just seemed easier to use a .30 PPC, as we already had a reamer.
 
Charles E said:
Well, that'd be OK, and since I don't use coated bullets, I should need a bit less powder.

Back on topic: My .30 PPC is in a drop-port as well. While I've not put a 6PPC barrel back on it, a number of guys at Rockingham have done a .30 BR on a Viper DP, using rebated rims.

The only issues anyone ever mentioned were with the .30BR configuration. Not *problems* really, just (& only some guys) an occasional hang-up, as the case head is larger than the rebated rim, and can lever a bit into the bottom of the boldface with that Remington-style boltface. It's probably the extractor groove really, but to me, it just seemed easier to use a .30 PPC, as we already had a reamer.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've also got a 6br barrel for the viper. It does what you describe, but just rarely. I really think it's in the id of the port/funnel moreso than the rim/groove. Mine is a B prefix with a 14 degree cone breech. I despise rebating rims, so am contemplating a variation of a 6 Grendel for it too.
 
mwezell said:
Yeah, I've also got a 6br barrel for the viper. It does what you describe, but just rarely. I really think it's in the id of the port/funnel moreso than the rim/groove.
Click to expand...
As I remember, the ones at Rockingham with the issue had had the funnel opened up a bit. But I'm not sure.

Mine is a B prefix with a 14 degree cone breech.
Click to expand...

As is mine. I use to cut that in the barrel, but with the .30 PPC, I just cut the barrel flat. A 14-degree cone, esp. as far out as it starts, doesn't help in chambering a round anyway. What people need to remember with these, at least the low-number ones like mine, is the action thread is variable depth (see Vaughn, page 118). Believe Jerry stopped that in later Drop Ports. It doesn't effect fitting a barrel, as long as you remember not to make the thread too tight! But I understand some smiths complained...

I despise rebating rims, so am contemplating a variation of a 6 Grendel for it too.
Click to expand...
For me, the accuracy potential of most chamberings is powder selection & availability. Powder powder powder. I go with the guy who made an "almost" .30 PPC so he could use H-4198. I've made 1000 yard rifles so I could use specific powders, and based on results, agree with him (different powders for 1K, of course).

Edit: I really wonder if the superior performance of the .300 WSM at long range hasn't more to do with using a near-full case of H4350 than with some magical powers of the chambering. H4831 (both pre and post extreme) is another forgiving powder, in something on the size of the older .308 Norma Mag. Disproportionate number of wins for that chambering, with that powder, too.
 
Last edited:
Glue

jo191145 said:
Interesting, L-32 in the major. What do you normally use Mike. Ever try AA -1680? I know some use it in the 30 ppc but its a bit fast for the 30 BR as far as I could tell.
I just gotta ask. What powder did you use in the major with 155's. I have a ten twist 30 BR tube that I eventually would like to try 150 gn Eazors in. Don't ask why someone built a ten twist BR but for 80$ I couldn't refuse.

I also have a Lilja 20 cal tube and. 20 Beggs reamer that was supposed to go on this rifle. Pulled it apart quite a while ago and forgot about it. Just got laid off and decided to put it back together and now I remember what the plans were but can't see spending money on wants and desires. Darn life works in funny ways:)

Bill fwiw I just use JB cold weld on everything. I'm sure it's not the best and some may argue its horrible but for psi compression capabilitys its pretty high. Shrinkage is almost unmeasurable by lab standards. Good enough for me.
Click to expand...

THANK YOU..... for replying....
 
LT-32 has the perfect fill capacity for the 30 Major and 220 Beggs. With the 30 Major, you have to use a long tube funnel and at least something of a trickle. Just dumping it in won't get you there.

I've seen data on using it in a 30 BR, but have not done it myself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top