"tuning" sporter barrels

C

Charles E

curmudgeon
OK, I got a new Shilen sporter barrel, for a new build. On the muzzle end, there is a great big blob of material. "Whazzatfor" I asked. "Oh, guys tune with it. Take some of until it shoots its best."

Sounds to me like the old "missing torque wrench" specification" "Run 'er down 'til she wrings off, then back off half a turn."

More seriously, if you're taking material off until it shoots its best, eventually you'll go too far, and it will shoot worse again. You can't put metal back on, that would be break the rules.

How do guys do this kind of tuning?
 
You'd be well advised to secure the services of a capable sporter smith. The amount of metal on that lug and how much it's backbored is a fine art and you get one shot to get it right relative to removing metal.
 
The "art" in the science of tuning? Seriously, I take your point, but I'm going to build it myself.

The one thought I had was to take two boxes of Ely "Black Box" Match, one 1043 and one 1054, and shoot groups, alternating ammo speeds withing the group. When the shots print together -- or close to it -- I'm there.

Other, better ideas?
 
Charles E said:
The "art" in the science of tuning? Seriously, I take your point, but I'm going to build it myself.

The one thought I had was to take two boxes of Ely "Black Box" Match, one 1043 and one 1054, and shoot groups, alternating ammo speeds withing the group. When the shots print together -- or close to it -- I'm there.

Other, better ideas?
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Trying to stop yer muzzle are ya?
 
Pete Wass said:
Trying to stop yer muzzle are ya?
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No, Pete. I know how to stop a muzzle.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...ets-new-ibs-1000-yard-heavy-gun-world-record/

My HG is very similar to Joel's, except it is more of a Bull-Pup. Smaller footprint. Takes about 70 pounds. I guess it would weigh a bit less in a .22 -- Minus the weight of the 10-inch BAT, but add the weight of the difference between a .22 an a .30 barrel . . . These rifles shoot nice round groups. Change something and the group size may change, but it is still nice & round -- until the wind comes up You do have to be careful reloading.

If I get hooked in RF, I might build one of these as an unlimited, but in this sporter, I'm trying to *compensate for velocity variations* with the muzzle (I think).
 
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Charles E said:
More seriously, if you're taking material off until it shoots its best, eventually you'll go too far, and it will shoot worse again. You can't put metal back on, that would be break the rules.

How do guys do this kind of tuning?
Click to expand...
When I worked in the electric motor rebuilding trade we had an oxy-acetylene set up to "spray" metal back onto motor shafts to repair wallowed out bearing fits. Once it was done and tuned back down to size it was still "one piece of steel". I'd guess that you would want to be careful not to wander back over the bore area, but it should work. If you're brave enough to risk it.
 
If you go too far...just take a little off the crown.

Jim
 
glynn angle said:
Welcome to the "dark side". It's all good.
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Yup. One of the reasons I shoot 1,000 yard is there are so few rules. When you think it through, most of these rules in RF only raise the costs. If you shoot long range benchrest for a while, you see the same technical and skill things lead to winning, just like the other benchrest sports, more populated by rules -- as I said, I believe all the rules do is raise the costs.

The two things I'll say for RF are (1) It's lighter (yea!) and (2) you can shoot it indoors in the winter. Both important to me, so I guess the extra cost just has to be born.
 
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