To clean or not to clean?

A

Always10mphwind

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I am new so don't castrate me. I am shooting moly coated bullets so I got moly bore paste and treated my barrel. I have read several things that say I should clean my barrel every 3 shots because the caliber is rough on barrels and carbon fouling is also an issue(223 wssm) Do I get some protection from the moly paste or do I still need to clean every 3 shots and re-apply moly paste?
 
Are you breaking in a new barrel or talking about regular cleaning ??? Please be a little more specific.
 
sounds like you are doing bbl break-in on a std bbl. i would pass on the moly until the bbl breakin is done. during a break-in, typically a lot of bronze brush cleaning is done. bronze brushes and moly do not get used together....read my lips:use moly,use no metal brushes.

mike in co
 
....read my lips:use moly,use no metal brushes.
mike in co is absolutly right if your braking in the barrel shoot 1 shot clean shoot 2 shots clean shoot 3 shots clean shoot 4 shots clean the shoot 5 shot groups 5 times then do the moly paste i will shoot a whole match then clean with a nylon brush with bore tech illiminator, patch it out, then patch moly cream in the barrel.
 
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As far as barrel break-in goes, I guess I don't know the proper method. I have always been happy with 1'' groups out of my deer rifles until I started shooting 1/2in. groups with factory ammo with my 223wssm. I figured if it would shoot, better make that if I could shoot 1/2in. groups reloads should be amazing. Anyway, I saw people talking about JB bore bright and Flitz polish on a forum and got some for myself. 200 strokes JB then 200 Flitz. I did that around the tenth shot out of the gun, about forty shots on it now.

Moly paste....no brushes...please explain, how do I clean it then?

I learned real quick not to shoot Ballistic Silvertips then shoot regular copper jackets in my gun...they don't mix
 
Brushes

Use nylon brushes. I don't use bronze brushes at all any more.
 
Always ...

As far as barrel break-in goes, I guess I don't know the proper method.

Here is a method from Benchrest Hall-of-Fame member Speedy Gonzalez that you might like to try:

S.G.&Y. BARREL BREAK-IN & CLEANING

Many of our customers upon taking delivery of their new gun or barrel are in a quandary as how to go about breaking-in that new barrel for maximum life and accuracy. With so much written in magazines these days stating use this, don’t use that, brush, don’t brush...what’s a person to do??
At S.G.&Y. Precision, we have a unique opportunity to inspect many barrels on a daily basis with our video borescope. Consequently, we see the results of a variety of break-in as well as cleaning procedures, and most of them leave the rifle owners with their mouth agape when they see the fruits of their misinformed labor on our color monitor. We have seen practically new barrels ruined with less than a hundred rounds shot through them by some of the crazy and sometimes humorous break-in methods. Anyway here goes for what it’s worth.

A. Bore guides- If you don’t have one, get one! Without a good bore guide you are just wasting your time trying to break-in a barrel or cleaning it for that matter. More barrels are destroyed by cleaning without a bore guide than by shooting. There are many types and brands of bore guides available on the market and range in price from $5.00 to $50.00. The only one we recommend is the Lucas two-piece bore guide. They are the best insurance you can buy for that new barrel. All other bore guides in my opinion are only good for keeping the solvents out of the trigger and action.

B. Solvents- We recommend Sweets 7.62 for copper and a *solvent mix of our own(Actually Pat McMillan gave me this formula) for powder fouling and for cleaning/storing your gun for the next match or season. This Speedy Formula is made as follows:

Mix 2/3 rds. Hoppes No. 9 Plus Black Powder solvent with 1/3rd. Regular Hoppes No. 9 Nitro solvent. Let this mixture set overnight and it will form a sort of gel that adheres very well to the brush and cuts powder fouling to a minimum.

* Note: Butches Boreshine may be substituted for this Speedy formula.

C. Procedure for “Break-in”- Before firing that first shot, clean the barrel as if it had been shot by following these simple steps.
Step 1. Insert Lucas bore guide into receiver and chamber. If you don’t have one stop here and get one, if not, just shoot your gun and forget trying to take any care of your barrel at all. If you do have one, proceed, and give yourself one “At-A-Boy” for being astute enough to have purchased the proper tools for the job.
Note: One “Aw-” wipes out all “At-A-Boys”.
Step 2. Run one wet patch of Sweets through the bore and let soak for approximately 30 seconds. Do not patch this out.
Step 3. Next, run the brush through the barrel only enough to expose the entire brush. Yes, I know that you still have 12 more inches of cleaning rod you could push out the end of your barrel but we want to protect that new crown. Also, if that rod hangs out that far, you will eventually start wearing down the rifling at the crown from about 4 to 7 o’clock. This is very bad “JU-JU” for accuracy. OK, back to our next step. Once the brush is exposed, saturate it well with our Speedy Formula or Butch’s Boreshine and SLOWLY run the brush through the bore 10 complete back and forth passes while keeping the rod as straight as possible. This is when the Lucas bore guide really pays for itself! Remember, the key word is slowly. We are not trying to break any land speed records today. Let this sit a minute or two and proceed to the next step.
Step 4. After you have let the barrel soak for a few moments, saturate a patch with the Speedy Formula or Butch’s Boreshine and pass it through the bore. Follow this with 2 dry patches and then dry the chamber with Brake Kleen or lighter fluid. Next, gently wipe the crown off with a soft cloth and lube your bolt (lets not gall the lugs just yet). Now, your ready to shoot your first shot. Then follow the schedule below to complete your barrel break-in.
1. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 1 shot.
2. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 5 shots.
3. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 10 shots.
4. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 10 to 15 shots and clean again.

D. Additional Cleaning Tips-
1. Each time you clean you may also follow the last dry patch with a patch soaked with LOCK-EEZ. This is a graphite powder suspended in a quick evaporating carrier that coats the bore slightly before passing that first round through a completely dry bore.
2. We are always asked about powder fouling and how to remove it. The only product that we have seen that really does a good job on powder fouling, especially on the carbon ring that forms just ahead of where the neck ends in the chamber, is IOSSO Bore Paste. This is used with a Pro-Shot nylon bristle brush and worked slowly in the neck and throat areas, then slowly down the entire bore. Follow this up with a few wet patches, then dry the bore as usual, and your ready to shoot.

E. Follow the outline above for your regular cleaning program and I promise that your barrels will deliver their greatest accuracy and life without a lot of grief and hours of wondering if they are clean.

Good Shooting,
Speedy Gonzalez
 
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YOU USE CHEMICALS, NOT ELBOW POWDER TO CLEAN A MOLY TREATED BBL.
two wet patches of a carbon remover, the a couple of dry patches. then your favorite copper remover. i perfer a slow cleaning wiht patches, others use soft nylon or fibre brushes. in a match bbl they clean fairly quickly, production bbl's may take longer.

a carbon remover is something like gm top engine cleaner(TEC). most auto makers have some similar product. carbon is cooked on the surface of the moly coated bbl. its hard and it will play havoc with shooting if not removed.
as far as copper cleaner..i use #9 std and sweets 7.62 ocassionally.

mike in co
 
OK. So, am I wasting my time using moly or is it beneficial to the life of my barrel?



Could someone tell me some other brand names of carbon removers?
 
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Always ...

OK. So, am I wasting my time using moly or is it beneficial to the life of my barrel? Could someone tell me some other brand names of carbon removers?

Wasting your time? Probably. It's been my observation that most BR shooters don't use moly.

Here's an answer on moly specific cleaning from Terry Brady, 2005 600-Yard IBS Shooter of the Year
"I use moly and clean every two matches. I don't brush much, and if I do, I normally use nylon brushes."

Since I shoot moly, my cleaning procedure is different than you'd use with naked bullets. I went to moly so I wouldn't have to clean during matches. Now I'll clean every two matches--about every 80 rounds. Here's the procedure: I put a patch of Kroil through the barrel, then wet another patch with Kroil, stroke it pretty good, then I dry patch it. Next I run a couple Montana X-Treme 50 BMG wet patches and I let that set for 5-10 minutes, then dry-patch the 50 BMG out. Then I put a little JB on a dry patch on a jag, and short-stroke about 6-8 inches of the throat area for about a dozen strokes. After that I push another Kroil-wetted patch through again, and then wet/dry patch to remove the JB residue. The last step it to run a patch with Kroil.

This complicated process gets the barrel clean but I've found it may take a dozen or more shots to get the moly back in again so the gun shoots optimally. If somebody has a better/faster way to clean for moly bullets, that doesn't require so many fouling shots, I'm all ears. I generally don't use brushes, but when I do, I'll use nylon brushes (except in rare situations where I really need to attack carbon in the throat). Bill Shehane was the one who suggested I use the nylon. With a nylon brush I will send the brush all the way out the muzzle and draw it back in again. With a fairly loose-fitting nylon brush I can short-stroke the throat area (you can feel it if it's getting rough), but generally that's not necessary, and, as explained above, I can accomplish my cleaning with patches.

Source: http://www.6mmbr.com/borebrushing.html
 
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