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Big G
Guest
Why is a stainless steel bore brush not recommended for barrel cleaning? But a stainless steel cleaning rod is??
brian roberts
New member
Well, I've been told that it is absolutely imperative.....................
to use a stainless steel rod, not coated, and a rod guide. I'll agree w/the rod guide, and I've never found any "embedded grit" in the coating of my rod. Now, I've also never found that a stainless brush "rounded off" the edges of the rifling, either.
I didn't have the time to examine the sharp edges on the rifling of a SAKO L461 I used such a brush on, because it only took two applications of a stainless brush to put to sleep the finest shooting, sporter-weight, factory-barreled rifle I'd seen in quite some time. And, it certainly made me sad. Kinda like you'd feel if you let your dog chase a 'coon in the water and watched it drowned. Well, almost. When I saw what I'd done, then remembered the 350-400yd ranged shots made w/that gun, and better; just learning what the Deuce Mag. could do, and then to lose it all through stupidity. Well, I think you get the drift, huh?
to use a stainless steel rod, not coated, and a rod guide. I'll agree w/the rod guide, and I've never found any "embedded grit" in the coating of my rod. Now, I've also never found that a stainless brush "rounded off" the edges of the rifling, either.
I didn't have the time to examine the sharp edges on the rifling of a SAKO L461 I used such a brush on, because it only took two applications of a stainless brush to put to sleep the finest shooting, sporter-weight, factory-barreled rifle I'd seen in quite some time. And, it certainly made me sad. Kinda like you'd feel if you let your dog chase a 'coon in the water and watched it drowned. Well, almost. When I saw what I'd done, then remembered the 350-400yd ranged shots made w/that gun, and better; just learning what the Deuce Mag. could do, and then to lose it all through stupidity. Well, I think you get the drift, huh?
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Big G
Guest
Thanks for the info. Why do they even sell stainless brushes if they do that kinda damage ??
I didn't think anyone marketed stn. stl. brushes anymore, but I see Brownells offers a "Tornado" brush marketed by Hoppes as a gunsmith brush. It has closed loops, not bristles....kind of like the wifes stainless steel scouring pad. Based on what that pad does to the pots and pans and the anecdote from Brian Roberts, I'll stick with bronze.
I would, however, not hesitate to use one to remove that funky stuff in the Beermeister tap.
I would, however, not hesitate to use one to remove that funky stuff in the Beermeister tap.
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Old Gunner
Guest
Most modern bores would probably not be damaged by a stainless steel brush, but a great many older barrels were made of softer steels.
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Greg Culpepper
Guest
If you want to gauge potential bore damage of a brush of any type just scratch it across the outside of your barrel and look for a resulting change in surface finish. That will tell the tale on what will happen in the bore with that brush. If you're apprehensive about scratching the outside of your barrel you should be at least that cautious about the inside.
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Dennis Sorensen
Guest
You will quickly ruin any quality rifle bore by using stainless steel brushes.
For a few swipes down an old screwed up, pitted military surplus rifle bbl. That's the only thing that I've used them for anyway.
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shevelin
Guest
Stainless brushes are too hard/strong for gun barrels. A rough, leaded pistol barrel will have the lead removed more quickly by their use, but the risk to good barrels outweighs the short term benefits. Worst case is when someone tries to reverse the brush in the bore - a dramatic pattern of alligator hide will permanently appear in the bore where that reversal took place.
Scott
Scott
Vern
Morethan1waytoskinacat
While I still would not use a stainless steel brush I actually saw some last time I as at a rather large gun store.
They were I think called Hoppes tornado "gunsmith" brushes.
However they are nothing like the brushes I/we use. They didnt have any bristles.
The business part was woven with smooth wire and no bristles like on our brass ones.
At first I thought they were only for shotguns but then I saw the smaller calibers.
Here is a link so you can see for yourself.
http://hoppes.com/products/ca_tornado_brushes.html
I would really like to see some of these in brass.
Again before someone puts their foot in their mouth I did not in anyway say these were good, just interesting and wish they were in brass.
They were I think called Hoppes tornado "gunsmith" brushes.
However they are nothing like the brushes I/we use. They didnt have any bristles.
The business part was woven with smooth wire and no bristles like on our brass ones.
At first I thought they were only for shotguns but then I saw the smaller calibers.
Here is a link so you can see for yourself.
http://hoppes.com/products/ca_tornado_brushes.html
I would really like to see some of these in brass.
Again before someone puts their foot in their mouth I did not in anyway say these were good, just interesting and wish they were in brass.
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Old Gunner
Guest
I haven't seen stainless steel brushes for sale around here since they first came out. I would guess this means the store owners got complaints about bore damage.
Near as I can figure the major reasoning behind the SS brush was that it wasn't affected by the Ammonia based bore cleaners.
I've seen SS brushes for military rifles, and I bought a couple of what I thought to be 12 Ga SS bore brushes but I suspect these were intended for a 20mm cannon barrel instead.
Those brushes did not cause any scratches in the barrels of several shotguns I've cleaned using them.
If properly annealed stainless steel wire can be of practically the same hardness as bronze.
The British used annealed iron brushes before WW2. They also used annealed iron screen mesh to scrub the bore with a pull through loop.
I've found instructions for cutting a bundle of annealed iron wire , putting it in the loop of a cleaning rod, pushing the rod part way up the bore , then pulling the wire bundle back to cut through tough carbon and resin deposits and cupro nickel fouling.
Back then soldiers were told not to try these extreme methods themselves but to turn the rifle over to someone qualified to do the job.
I suspect far more bores were ruined by the extreme methods used to remove hard baked fouling and Cupro-Nickel than were ever worn out in normal use.
One factor that occurs to me is the galling effect of stainless steel rubbed against stainless steel.
Makers of Stainless Steel auto pistols found that if the slide and frame were made of the exact same alloy the slide rails would become galled and roughened. Lubes had little effect on this problem.
They then began to use slightly differing alloys for these parts.
Way it was explained was that on the microscopic level the surfaces of SS parts have distintive crystaline patterns. If the size and shape of these patterns match the moving parts try to cold weld to each other.
Near as I can figure the major reasoning behind the SS brush was that it wasn't affected by the Ammonia based bore cleaners.
I've seen SS brushes for military rifles, and I bought a couple of what I thought to be 12 Ga SS bore brushes but I suspect these were intended for a 20mm cannon barrel instead.
Those brushes did not cause any scratches in the barrels of several shotguns I've cleaned using them.
If properly annealed stainless steel wire can be of practically the same hardness as bronze.
The British used annealed iron brushes before WW2. They also used annealed iron screen mesh to scrub the bore with a pull through loop.
I've found instructions for cutting a bundle of annealed iron wire , putting it in the loop of a cleaning rod, pushing the rod part way up the bore , then pulling the wire bundle back to cut through tough carbon and resin deposits and cupro nickel fouling.
Back then soldiers were told not to try these extreme methods themselves but to turn the rifle over to someone qualified to do the job.
I suspect far more bores were ruined by the extreme methods used to remove hard baked fouling and Cupro-Nickel than were ever worn out in normal use.
One factor that occurs to me is the galling effect of stainless steel rubbed against stainless steel.
Makers of Stainless Steel auto pistols found that if the slide and frame were made of the exact same alloy the slide rails would become galled and roughened. Lubes had little effect on this problem.
They then began to use slightly differing alloys for these parts.
Way it was explained was that on the microscopic level the surfaces of SS parts have distintive crystaline patterns. If the size and shape of these patterns match the moving parts try to cold weld to each other.
R
Roy Allain
Guest
The "Tornado" stainless steel brushes were made to remove "LEAD" fouling from pistol & revolver barrels only. DO NOT USE ON STAINLESS STEEL RIFLE BARRELS.
I bought 2 of these brushes and have never used them. Can't bring myself to run them through any pistol or rifle barrel. Whoever came up with these should be tarred & feathered.
If you want to remove lead from your pistol barrels, wrap a piece of "Chore Boy" bronze cleaning pad around your "bronze" brush. Will strip the lead out in one or two passes and no damage to the bore.
Roy
I bought 2 of these brushes and have never used them. Can't bring myself to run them through any pistol or rifle barrel. Whoever came up with these should be tarred & feathered.
If you want to remove lead from your pistol barrels, wrap a piece of "Chore Boy" bronze cleaning pad around your "bronze" brush. Will strip the lead out in one or two passes and no damage to the bore.
Roy
Vern
Morethan1waytoskinacat
I am not advocating using one of these things on the contrary I agree that I dont think they would be the best idea, at least not without some actual factual proof rather than speculation.
I am however going to advocate a little accuracy in statement.
Boyd they were not made just for lead in pistols especially since they are made for .243/6mm cal and .270/7mm cal, which does not really apply to any realistic pistol that would be using lead bullets.
Again I dont THINK its a good idea however I have no proof however Hoppe's claims it will NOT scratch the barrel.
Just dont want us to be representing statements of OPINION as statements based on fictional/nonexistant facts.
I am however going to advocate a little accuracy in statement.
Boyd they were not made just for lead in pistols especially since they are made for .243/6mm cal and .270/7mm cal, which does not really apply to any realistic pistol that would be using lead bullets.
Again I dont THINK its a good idea however I have no proof however Hoppe's claims it will NOT scratch the barrel.
Just dont want us to be representing statements of OPINION as statements based on fictional/nonexistant facts.