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B. Harvey
Guest
Is that a copper butt?
Show us your rimfires.
- Thread starter harro
- Start date
Joe Friedrich
Member
Peter,
Thanks, It's a rifle you like or dis-like. I pray each day that we can keep doing what so many here love to do especially in our present time, but I can't think that far ahead
. It would be nice to meet so many talented shooters in 2011 and will leave it in Gods hands.
Brian, It is a copper butt plate for balance. There are things done on the rifle for dampening vibration that can't be seen. It's the most solid rifle on bags or one piece that I have shot.
Joe
Thanks, It's a rifle you like or dis-like. I pray each day that we can keep doing what so many here love to do especially in our present time, but I can't think that far ahead
. It would be nice to meet so many talented shooters in 2011 and will leave it in Gods hands.Brian, It is a copper butt plate for balance. There are things done on the rifle for dampening vibration that can't be seen. It's the most solid rifle on bags or one piece that I have shot.
Joe
G'day
Can I also ask a question??
Is the barrel tapered or straight ??
If it is straight , would moving the forend up and down the barrel have any effect on tuning it??. In other words could the forend be used as a tuner , or does the tuner have to be out near the muzzle to be effective.Sorry if this is a dumb question to you guys who are more knowledgeable than me but I was just wondering.
Thankyou for your time
harro
Can I also ask a question??
Is the barrel tapered or straight ??
If it is straight , would moving the forend up and down the barrel have any effect on tuning it??. In other words could the forend be used as a tuner , or does the tuner have to be out near the muzzle to be effective.Sorry if this is a dumb question to you guys who are more knowledgeable than me but I was just wondering.
Thankyou for your time
harro
Bill Collaros
Shoot to Thrill
Joe, that is a wonderful piece of work & even better going on your test scores it shoots as good as it looks. Let us know when u want to patent it & send one to Australia...
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Joe Friedrich
Member
Tim.
It has been a concern from the start, we are putting together a piece to add on to verify if this could be a problem area. The way the rifle is shooting it doesn't seem to be a problem. We will continue to test different ideas.
harro,
Both barrels are straight .900. The barrel block and front block are delrin. The new front block has 3 1/2" of adjustment to move fore and aft on the rails, and uses a adjustable tension pad for tuning(like a mid-barrel tuner). The first stage in the rifle build, the rails extended to 1 1/2" behind the crown with a 1" barrel block that gave 10" of movement fore and aft. It didn't pan out where the block was finally placed once the barrel got some heat in it. Also both of the rear stock tubes are injected with foam to help dampen the vibration along with the middle dampener.
Bill Thanks, It's a on-going fun project, with as many possibities as your imagination allows.
Joe
It has been a concern from the start, we are putting together a piece to add on to verify if this could be a problem area. The way the rifle is shooting it doesn't seem to be a problem. We will continue to test different ideas.
harro,
Both barrels are straight .900. The barrel block and front block are delrin. The new front block has 3 1/2" of adjustment to move fore and aft on the rails, and uses a adjustable tension pad for tuning(like a mid-barrel tuner). The first stage in the rifle build, the rails extended to 1 1/2" behind the crown with a 1" barrel block that gave 10" of movement fore and aft. It didn't pan out where the block was finally placed once the barrel got some heat in it. Also both of the rear stock tubes are injected with foam to help dampen the vibration along with the middle dampener.
Bill Thanks, It's a on-going fun project, with as many possibities as your imagination allows.
Joe
G'day
Peter Armstrong , can I ask a few questions about the construction of your stocks??
Did you use Balsa as the core, and then cover with Fibreglass??
Do you use a aluminium block ,or pillar bed ??
Do you know of any "How to" sites that may help me.
Could you tell me an approx weight of the finished stocks( the reason I ask is I am trying to work out any advantages to be gained by making a balsa fibreglass as opposed to solid timber).
Hope you don't mind all the questions and giving away a few secrets.
Also to everyone else thankyou for replying ,and keep the pictures coming.I'm still looking for inspiration.
Thankyou for your time
harro
Peter Armstrong , can I ask a few questions about the construction of your stocks??
Did you use Balsa as the core, and then cover with Fibreglass??
Do you use a aluminium block ,or pillar bed ??
Do you know of any "How to" sites that may help me.
Could you tell me an approx weight of the finished stocks( the reason I ask is I am trying to work out any advantages to be gained by making a balsa fibreglass as opposed to solid timber).
Hope you don't mind all the questions and giving away a few secrets.
Also to everyone else thankyou for replying ,and keep the pictures coming.I'm still looking for inspiration.
Thankyou for your time
harro
P
Peter Armstrong
Guest
Harro,
I went for fibreglass because I could cover up my mistakes or changes I might make before I painted it and balsa was just easier to shape. On the big gun the area under the action is a steel block so no pillars and each side of the steel block is a 3mm thick aluminium plate the full depth and length of the fore end and that forms the barrel channel. It has a bit of lead in the butt to balance it up better on the bags and I can’t remember what it weighs more than 3lbs less than 4lbs is all I can remember. The sporter stock is 1 1/2lbs bedded and painted and could have been 4-6 ounces lighter if I needed it to be and it just has a conventional pillar bedding job.
I have no background in steel, wood or fibreglass I just worked it out as I went along.
Peter
I went for fibreglass because I could cover up my mistakes or changes I might make before I painted it and balsa was just easier to shape. On the big gun the area under the action is a steel block so no pillars and each side of the steel block is a 3mm thick aluminium plate the full depth and length of the fore end and that forms the barrel channel. It has a bit of lead in the butt to balance it up better on the bags and I can’t remember what it weighs more than 3lbs less than 4lbs is all I can remember. The sporter stock is 1 1/2lbs bedded and painted and could have been 4-6 ounces lighter if I needed it to be and it just has a conventional pillar bedding job.
I have no background in steel, wood or fibreglass I just worked it out as I went along.
Peter