Shelley Davidson, and locking tuners?

D

Don

New member
The tuner body must be 100% locked to the barrel. I don't even feel that a jam nut, on the barrel, behind the tuner is really sufficient. And I also don't like pinch screws. I feel like a tuner body need to lock firmly, at the muzzle, to work well.

Shelley

Hi Shelley,

Buried in one of the other tuner topics, you made the above statement about locking tuners, which I happen to agree with, but I have not come up with a better method than those that you have listed. Is there a better method, outside of epoxying the things in place once the proper tune has been found?....................Don
 
Last edited:
Locking Tuners

I use a 36 tpi thread, 2 inches long, and two 6-32 socket head capscrews as pinch bolts on a split that is about 1/3 the length of the tuner. Seems to be rock solid when I lightly tighten the screws. Works, too.
There are some pictures of what I use floating around on the Forum some where.........jackie
 
Last edited:
jackie schmidt said:
I use a 36 tpi thread, 2 inches long, and two 6-32 socket head capscrews as pinch bolts on a split that is about 1/3 the length of the tuner. Seems to be rock solid when I lightly tighten the screws. Works, too.
There are some pictures of what I use floating around on the Forum some where.........jackie
Click to expand...

Hi Jackie,

After readings Shelleys statement, and I believe seeing a photo of one of his tuners with both a stop nut style and pinch bolt...............I thought maybe he has come up with another method that might be even better than those already in use by you, me, and others.........just wanted to find out if that was the case..................Don
 
Don,
I have one of Jackie's and one of Shelley's tuners. Jackie's is exacly as he described. Shelley's tuner body threads on and locks against the muzzle much the same way as a muzzle brake does. On Shelley's tuner the two collars you see are then adjusted to "tune" the rifle. The two collars are tightened against each other to "lock them in place". I hope my description has been adequate.
 
Russ Hardy said:
Don,
On Shelley's tuner the two collars you see are then adjusted to "tune" the rifle. The two collars are tightened against each other to "lock them in place".QUOTE]

HI Russ,

Reading Shelleys original idea, it appears, that he no longer feels the "lock nut" design is the best way to lock the 2 collars. I am hoping he has another idea for "locking", I am always up for new ways to improve things.

If his feelings are that it is ok to "lock nut" the collars but not the main body, than I guess I dont really see the logic in the philosophy, i.e. rigidness should be maintained throughout the entire assembly .........Don
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Don

Russ has it right. The collars (weights) lock as a jam nut thing but the body locks up to the muzzle just like the barrel does to the receiver or like a muzzle brake. It might be alright to use a tuner body and a jam nut but the lock up would be at the rear of the body and I fear that the body could have a bit of vibration that's independent from the barrel. I may be paranoid on that. I just don't want the tuner to flop like your hand when you shake your arm and leave your wrist limp.

Jackie, your tuner works! The stuff I'm talking here is just the way I perceive the theory and how I feel is the best way to archive the results but certainly not the only way to get results. I've tightened stuff at the muzzle and had poor accuracy. You apparently don't tighten your tuner to the point that it'll affect the accuracy but there's a fine line between tight enough to not allow your tuner to independently vibrate and tight enough to hurt accuracy.
 
Tuners

JACKIE&SHELLY, I think BOB ESTES said it best "last year it was frozen scopes,this year its tuners" Robert
 
I wonder how many locked scopes or March scopes will be on guns at the Cactus. Maybe I'll take a count and see. I can see how all of this stuff can get to be a little daunting, but that is the reason we started playing this game in the first place. The quest for ultimate accuracy continues and it will surely be a winding road and not a straight path.
 
Robert Whitewood

Since I shoot against you for quarters, I sure hope you don't jump on the tuner bandwagon. Your already too hard to beat. (grin)

Shelley
 
ShelleyDavidson said:
Russ has it right. The collars (weights) lock as a jam nut thing but the body locks up to the muzzle just like the barrel does to the receiver or like a muzzle brake. It might be alright to use a tuner body and a jam nut but the lock up would be at the rear of the body and I fear that the body could have a bit of vibration that's independent from the barrel. I may be paranoid on that. I just don't want the tuner to flop like your hand when you shake your arm and leave your wrist limp.

Jackie, your tuner works! The stuff I'm talking here is just the way I perceive the theory and how I feel is the best way to archive the results but certainly not the only way to get results. I've tightened stuff at the muzzle and had poor accuracy. You apparently don't tighten your tuner to the point that it'll affect the accuracy but there's a fine line between tight enough to not allow your tuner to independently vibrate and tight enough to hurt accuracy.
Click to expand...

Shelley,

Thanks for your explanation.

I can tell you one thing for sure, and that is I have seen some disturbing vibration results when using my instrumentation to look at tuners with "o"ring and detente locking/holding devices.

Ive come to the conclusion that unless tuner assemblys are absolutely rigid and stable, than one ends up tuning the tuner by varying the lock up pressures, instead of using the tuner for its direct intended purpose of tuning the barrel/rifle.

Things in the competitive BR game are complex enough as is, adding complexity instead of simplicity is counter productive unless there is a big payoff.............Don
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top