Scope leveling?

[alinwa]

My way is use my level to level my target on the shooting board then mirror my horizontal crosshair on the targets horizontal border line and check the vertical crosshair on the vertical border line. As long as your rest bag doesn't shift your in gear. Check your level after a long shoot like the Nats, couple times a year will do.

Stephen Perry
Angeles BR

I agree with Steve, but let me add that if you simply cannot find a flat on the rifle (Stephen shoots BR so his rifles probably have a 3" wide flat forend) for use in leveling the gun, sometimes the best compromise is to plumb or level the buttplate screws. GENERALLY the rifle has been inletted/bedded using jigs which are indicated off of the butt so the buttplate screws should be perfectly plumb to the bore. You can level the buttplate screws and look right through the centerline of the bore. (Unless your rifle has cast in the stock, then the bore will be offset some.)

Once the rifle is truly level, THEN align the scope with the leveled target.

And for all of you who discount all this as unnecessary....... try dialing in long-range shots with a canted scope.



al

 

[tpende]

very good info. this is the best way ive heard yet of plumbing the rifle. im going to try that. thank-you sir

 

[chowan]

Get your scope mounts level by either blocking up your rifle or adjusting the legs on the bi-pod until they are level. Re-install your scope on the mounts without disturbing the rifle and then lay a small level on the top turret. that should do the trick.

Or in a padded vise; level across the scope mounts, add rings (if horizontal split rings, level across lower half of ring already installed), check level, level across top of turret, with or without cap applied.

Bang.

 

[robertb]

I think I've also seen where others have mentioned using a feeler guage b/t the bottom of the scope and the scope rail to even it out....I.E. Seat the flat bottom of the scope (turret area) against feeler guages. Once level, remove feeler guage and tighten down.

 

[squirrelduster]

First you will need a level to mount on your scope to keep the scope level when you are on uneven terrain.
Second it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish.
If your goal is to shoot at 200 to 400 yards and you are not concerned about the crabbing effect present in most scopes then all of the mechanical methods will work quite well.
If your goal is to shoot long ranges over 500 then you need to take a different approach.
The following instructions will get your scope reticle plumb to the level you are installing
The sideways crabbing of the scope reticle needs to be adjusted for by using the bubble level.
First use one of the mechanical methods to get the crosshair vertical. Once it looks correct tighten up your scope rings. Don't move the scope again.
Before you start verify your 100 yard zero.
Put a 1/2" stick on dot at the bottom and drop a plumb line and measure up 22" along the line and place another 1/2" dot.
Shoot three shots at the bottom dot with the crosshair intersecting the upper dot.
Turn your scope 21 MOA up and shoot three more shots at the lower dot.
The shots should center around the upper dot.
If it is higher or lower then your scope clicks are not MOA accurate. If the shots are left or right we have work to do.
Say the upper group is 1 inch to the right, place another dot 1 inch to the left.
Go back to the bench and put your bubble level on the scope. Without moving the scope cant the rifle so the crosshair is on lower dot and the new dot 1 inch to the left intersects the vertical cross hair. When you have the rifle canted correctly move the level on the scope so it is level and tighten it down.
Don't forget to move your scope back down 21 MOA.
Level the rifle using the scope level.
Shoot another group at the lower dot. Crank up 21 MOA and you should be on the first dot you placed at 22".
If you have more room you can use a bigger target that is multiples of 22". Such as 44,66 and so on. The bigger the board the better the accuracy of setting the level.
I learned this method from a post by Paul Coburn (catshooter) a year or so ago and have made a few changes and has worked really well for me and my friends. We shoot long range ground squirrels and had a lot of problems with what we thought was wind drift and turned out to our equipment not correctly set up.
Once you are set up you can use the turret cranking method or the Mildots with confidence that your set up will work correctly.