Savage Model 12 BR accutrigger inconsistency

V

voldoc02

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I took the accutrigger blade off my new Model 12 BR
and the trigger adjusted down to about 6 ozs., and
I was pleased for a factory trigger.. Just when groups had gotten
in the 1/3 MOA range (6BR) the trigger started getting lighter and
slam fired a couple of times. This rifle is my 200 yd factory class
gun and can bring home some wood again if the blasted trigger would hold
adjustment and not get lighter during use.. Hope someone can offer
idea to stop this. Match one week from today 8-29-09.. I don't have the
accutrigger adjustment tool, I just use a small screw driver..
I will get a new Evolution trigger from SSS but not enough time now..
advice needed and thanks
Doc Stone

PS- It's now at 6 ozs. but getting lighter every shot
 
Put the trigger back the way it came - the safety is there for a reason. 99% of the problems w/ these trigger go away when you dial it up to 8-10oz or so. 6oz. is just too close to the ragged edge for reliable performance. Somehow I highly doubt the difference between 6oz. and 10oz. is going to keep you out of the winner's circle anywhere but between your ears.

In the end, my advice is simply this - put the safety back, dial the weight up a bit, and learn to live with the slightly heavier trigger until you get a SSS Evo trigger. Even those require a little adjustment too (I have one of those as well).

Monte
 
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Evolution, how light??

Monte,
how light can the Evolution go safely.. Is it worth the
$300.00 as done by SSS??
That includes a true and timing job too I think..
You said it too needed adjusting.. Just hoping not
continually..
advise and thanks..
Doc Stone
 
My Evo trigger drops the sear occasionally - as in it follows the bolt handle down. Open the bolt and re-cock *gently* takes care of the problem - which is why I haven't been jumping after it. I need to pull it out of the stock and increase the sear engagement a smidge, and maybe increase the weight a touch to maybe 3-4oz. Right now the gun is set up with no cheekpiece and no pistol grip (McRee aluminum stock), just lightly 'pinch' with thumb on the back of the trigger guard and index finger on the trigger. Can't shoot free-recoil in F-Class so I have to shoulder the gun some anyway - the difference in pull weight isn't that critical (for me).

Trueing and timing and a new trigger... sure that'll still be legit for a 'factory' class?

I've put a few (thousand) rounds downrange using a stock Target Accutrigger... if you put it back together *right* and dial the weight up a few ounces it should work just fine.
 
In catalog entries, I have seen Savage state the Accutrigger can be adjusted on the Model 12 series from 1.5 to ?? lbs. of pull. Can't recall if the upper limit is 3 or 6 lb.

Anyway, as I read the catalog entries and ads, I can't see where a person can drop the pull to 6 oz. without modifying the trigger.

So if the suggestion is to "put the trigger back the way it came," wouldn't that mean it could no longer be less than approx. 1.5 lb.?

I have a Savage Model 12 Varminter. I asked the gunsmith to set the trigger as light as the adjustment would allow. As it feels right now, I'm guessing it is about 1.5 lb. It has a very clean creepless break, so I am going to just live with it the way it is.
 
Pete,

Check the section for the Target Actions like the LRPV, 12 F/TR, etc. again. The regular Accutrigger is supposed to adjust down to about 1.5lbs, correct. IIRC the one I had never went down that low - maybe a fuzz over 2lbs was more like it on mine. The newer *Target* Accutrigger is advertised to be adjustable down to 6 ounces... but people have had some issues with them set that light. The two most common are a) "my gun won't cock / stay cocked when I close the bolt", and b) "my gun goes 'click' but won't fire when I pull the trigger". I spent a fair amount of time working the bolt on mine and figuring out how to duplicate these problems. A) was primarily due to 'slapping' the bolt down too hard - if its set that light you need to really ease it closed. Otherwise the sear releases, but the safety blade does its thing and catches it (since the safety hasn't been depressed out of the way yet). The tell-tale here is closing the bolt and the safety blade is stiff/rigid (because it caught the sear) when you put your finger on it. B) was mainly due to people not pulling the trigger straight back. Not something people like hearing, especially over the 'Net, but it's fairly simple to replicate. Set the trigger hairy light, and then push the safety blade sideways rather than straight back. It'll rub against the trigger slot enough to trip the sear, but again the safety blade isn't fully depressed out of the way, so it catches and won't fire. As mentioned, dialing it up to 8-10 oz and off the ragged edge tends to be an easy fix.

In the case of the OP, what he's getting sounds pretty much exactly like 'A', but since he removed the safety blade... the gun just goes 'bang' when it shouldn't. Not good.
 
Have a gunsmith work the factory trigger or work on it yourself. Clean up the sear and trigger engagement surface. Might try trimming a coil off the trigger spring reshape then stretch slightly.

Didn't know the trigger would work w/o the accutrigger blade and spring. Maybe I'll try that on mine.
 
Accu trigger

Doc I also removed the blade in my LRPV with the target trigger. It is set at 8 oz and I have not had any trouble with it. I have fired it 300 times or So. I have a SSS trigger in my savage ML and it breaks at 1 lb 2 oz I am also pleased with that trigger.
 
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