Savage LRPV
- Thread starter AZ_Win52
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vicvanb
Guest
Not real tight! The action behind the middle screw floats and if the rear screw is tight the action is stressed and accuracy suffers. That is how mine behaves, anyway. Others may differ.
With the front and middle screws tight and the rear just snug mine shoots groups as small as one inch at 300 yards. Tighten up the rear screw and groups are 3-5 times as large. It's a 204 Ruger.
With the front and middle screws tight and the rear just snug mine shoots groups as small as one inch at 300 yards. Tighten up the rear screw and groups are 3-5 times as large. It's a 204 Ruger.
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tome
Guest
i was in conversation with H-S on another stock for a remington & i asked about the savage stock on my lrpv 22-250..torque the front and rear action screws to 65 inlbs..just snug the middle screw..the savage will shoot a .284 5 shot group A 100m if i do my part..on the remington the same 65inlbs w/ no bedding required..i was told that this is the way the millitary uses the h-s stock..this was what i got from the factory & it works for me.
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Ted Winterman
Guest
In regards to Savage LRPV action with 3 bedding screws. I spoke to
customer sercvice about that subject. They checked with engineering and
with the lead rifle smith. The result is; 25 inch pounds for all three. The
procedure is screw in all three but leave loose. Put but on floor, muzzle up
and very lightly snug up screws. Bump butstock on floor to seat recoil lug
against stock. Tighten front screw, then second, and then third screw. Re-
check torque again over the next few days.
Tbear
customer sercvice about that subject. They checked with engineering and
with the lead rifle smith. The result is; 25 inch pounds for all three. The
procedure is screw in all three but leave loose. Put but on floor, muzzle up
and very lightly snug up screws. Bump butstock on floor to seat recoil lug
against stock. Tighten front screw, then second, and then third screw. Re-
check torque again over the next few days.
Tbear
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vicvanb
Guest
Trial And Error?
Mine in 204 Ruger does NOT shoot well with the rear screw tight. With it loose it's a screamer.
As a result, if I were you I would experiment with the screws and let the rifle tell you what it likes best. As with most things, "rules of thumb" don't always produce optimum performance.
Mine in 204 Ruger does NOT shoot well with the rear screw tight. With it loose it's a screamer.
As a result, if I were you I would experiment with the screws and let the rifle tell you what it likes best. As with most things, "rules of thumb" don't always produce optimum performance.
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Ted Winterman
Guest
Vicvanb,
Can you give me an idea of how loose is loose? Mine is 22-250. I
havent shot it yet. If I need to relax the screw, I need an idea of how much.
Thanks, Tbear
Can you give me an idea of how loose is loose? Mine is 22-250. I
havent shot it yet. If I need to relax the screw, I need an idea of how much.
Thanks, Tbear
V
vicvanb
Guest
LRPV Screws
T-Bear,
I don't have a torque device so I can't say exactly.
The screws are hex heads so the allen wrench gives you quite a bit of leverage. I tighten the front and middle screws tight, then just snug up the rear screw. I guess "loose' is not the correct term. Just not tight. The theory is that the rear of the action behind the middle screw is floating. If you tighten the rear screw it flexes the action and accuracy may suffer. Apparently, in some rifles accuracy does not suffer--that is why you should experiment.
One way to test the rear screw is to keep a finger on the rear tang. If you feel it moving down as the rear screw is tightened, you are flexing the action.
These aluminum bedding block deals are tricky. Sometimes they come from the factory with a good fit, other times not. I guess action screw tightness depends on the fit--maybe you can get better contact between the block and the receiver by tightening the screws one way on one rifle but another way on a different rifle. That is why I recommend experimenting.
T-Bear,
I don't have a torque device so I can't say exactly.
The screws are hex heads so the allen wrench gives you quite a bit of leverage. I tighten the front and middle screws tight, then just snug up the rear screw. I guess "loose' is not the correct term. Just not tight. The theory is that the rear of the action behind the middle screw is floating. If you tighten the rear screw it flexes the action and accuracy may suffer. Apparently, in some rifles accuracy does not suffer--that is why you should experiment.
One way to test the rear screw is to keep a finger on the rear tang. If you feel it moving down as the rear screw is tightened, you are flexing the action.
These aluminum bedding block deals are tricky. Sometimes they come from the factory with a good fit, other times not. I guess action screw tightness depends on the fit--maybe you can get better contact between the block and the receiver by tightening the screws one way on one rifle but another way on a different rifle. That is why I recommend experimenting.
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Ted Winterman
Guest
Vicvanb,
Thanks for the reply. In regards to my rifle with the synthetic stock,
the bedding was bad to the point of sending it back two times. At that
point I requested the FTR laminated stock. From what I can see, the action
has a full bedding fit. If you are interested, I bought an inch-pound torque
wrench at Sears for $69.00. Its range is from 25 in lbs to 250 in lbs.
I havent had a chance to shoot the rifle yet. It had a 1/9 bbl on it but
I had them put on a 1/12 bbl. The rifle is 15 lbs with bi-pod.
My first test loads will be 29 grns of WIN 760 and HORN 53 grn match
bullets. More testing after that for the best load and grouping.
Tbear
Thanks for the reply. In regards to my rifle with the synthetic stock,
the bedding was bad to the point of sending it back two times. At that
point I requested the FTR laminated stock. From what I can see, the action
has a full bedding fit. If you are interested, I bought an inch-pound torque
wrench at Sears for $69.00. Its range is from 25 in lbs to 250 in lbs.
I havent had a chance to shoot the rifle yet. It had a 1/9 bbl on it but
I had them put on a 1/12 bbl. The rifle is 15 lbs with bi-pod.
My first test loads will be 29 grns of WIN 760 and HORN 53 grn match
bullets. More testing after that for the best load and grouping.
Tbear
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AVanGorder
Guest
Vicvanb,
Thanks for the reply. In regards to my rifle with the synthetic stock,
the bedding was bad to the point of sending it back two times. At that
point I requested the FTR laminated stock. From what I can see, the action
has a full bedding fit. If you are interested, I bought an inch-pound torque
wrench at Sears for $69.00. Its range is from 25 in lbs to 250 in lbs.
I havent had a chance to shoot the rifle yet. It had a 1/9 bbl on it but
I had them put on a 1/12 bbl. The rifle is 15 lbs with bi-pod.
My first test loads will be 29 grns of WIN 760 and HORN 53 grn match
bullets. More testing after that for the best load and grouping.
Tbear
Nice looking rifle! If you ever get sick of it, just send it to me. I'll even pay the shipping.
Adrian
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Ted Winterman
Guest
AVanGorder,
Thanks for the compliment. I hope it performs as good as it looks. There
are so many loads one can try it could get frustrating. I have 3 other Savages
that perform really good. They are all BVSS in 223, 22-250 and 308. I usually
take a couple of them to South Dakota once or twice a year to visit the
PD,s. Great fun but I'm not crazy about the drive.
Ted
Thanks for the compliment. I hope it performs as good as it looks. There
are so many loads one can try it could get frustrating. I have 3 other Savages
that perform really good. They are all BVSS in 223, 22-250 and 308. I usually
take a couple of them to South Dakota once or twice a year to visit the
PD,s. Great fun but I'm not crazy about the drive.
Ted
I bedded the action and then left the rear screw out. You really don't need it. That gun shoots GREAT! It likes the 69 grain SMK's. I personaly like them much tighter than 25 inch pounds, I set them at 65 inch pounds. Work them up to that evenly, don't tighten one to 65 then the other.
C
Craiger5658
Guest
Lrpv
Here's my two cents worth on this subject:
Buy yourself a Model 40 trigger guard (longer than the Model 12) and bed the action in Devcon (leave the tang floating). This will involve drilling and tapping a new hole in the bottom of the action as well as drilling a new hole in the stock. It'll cure the problem of how much to torque the screws and should also shrink your group sizes. It shrunk my .204 LRPV from 1.47" to under .4" and my F-Class 6.5x284 from .65" average to down around .3" (5 shots at 100yds).
Where did I come up with this plan you ask? There's a good article in the Apr 08 edition of PS which is titled, "I was thinking - Ouch!" written by a former employee of Savage. He addressed a couple of issues in the article, one of which was the Model 12. He said that 3rd screw is too close to the trigger/sear and the metal in the action there is thinner than it is near the middle. If you get the model 40 guard, it will move that screw about 7/16" farther forward, away from the trigger and also into thicker action metal. I also had both barrels recrowned as the LRPV's was hideous and the F was already apart.....the F gun required a new pillar and some additional machining on the bottom of action (reference the 6mmbr.com website for their excellent article on how to do a stress free pillar bedding job).
As a side note, Midway sells the Wheeler Engineering FAT (Firearm Accurizing Torque) wrench for about $35 right now on sale. Excellent little tool for the torque issue.
Well, I guess that's closer to about 4 cents worth......
Here's my two cents worth on this subject:
Buy yourself a Model 40 trigger guard (longer than the Model 12) and bed the action in Devcon (leave the tang floating). This will involve drilling and tapping a new hole in the bottom of the action as well as drilling a new hole in the stock. It'll cure the problem of how much to torque the screws and should also shrink your group sizes. It shrunk my .204 LRPV from 1.47" to under .4" and my F-Class 6.5x284 from .65" average to down around .3" (5 shots at 100yds).
Where did I come up with this plan you ask? There's a good article in the Apr 08 edition of PS which is titled, "I was thinking - Ouch!" written by a former employee of Savage. He addressed a couple of issues in the article, one of which was the Model 12. He said that 3rd screw is too close to the trigger/sear and the metal in the action there is thinner than it is near the middle. If you get the model 40 guard, it will move that screw about 7/16" farther forward, away from the trigger and also into thicker action metal. I also had both barrels recrowned as the LRPV's was hideous and the F was already apart.....the F gun required a new pillar and some additional machining on the bottom of action (reference the 6mmbr.com website for their excellent article on how to do a stress free pillar bedding job).
As a side note, Midway sells the Wheeler Engineering FAT (Firearm Accurizing Torque) wrench for about $35 right now on sale. Excellent little tool for the torque issue.
Well, I guess that's closer to about 4 cents worth......
I did a search on the torque values for the LRPV on SavageShooters the other day, and found a thread written by Fred Moreo, owner of Sharpshooter Supply. He is a well known Savage gunsmith. He says: Tighten the middle screw first to 55 in. lbs; front screw next to 65 in. lbs. and the rear screw last to 55 in. lbs. This is for synthetic stocks. Wood stocks should be about 10 in. lbs. less.