Ruger No 1 Barrel removal

P

peashooter

LT560
gang, I am about to remove the barrel from my Ruger No 1 and was wondering if the standard barrel vise was used for this, as I will have to grip the barrel a fair ways down to clear the forearm hangar and apparentyl a barrel should be gripped as close to the action as possible to prevent possible deformation of the barrel. This is my first removal so I'm open to suggestions before I fly at her. I may re-install this barrel I am removing in the future so I hope not to damage it in the process.

I am doing this as an introduction to my own personal home gunsmithing project and do not want to take it to a pro as many may suggest. Never try it yourself you'll never learn how its done, but a little guidance along the way never hurts, lol.LT

Buy the way I am removing the .250 AI and going to change up to 6.5 x 55 for something different.
 
Well, it isn't apples to apples, but we remove benchrest barrels all the time with the stock on. You can't get the vice too close to the action with the stock on. But you're going to need a different wrench, and I suspect (but do not know) that you'll find the current barrel on there pretty tight, if it is a factory item.

BTW, all the way from .257 to .264? A whopping .007 larger in bore! I know, it is a larger case.

Reminds me of a guy I knew who used a 25/06 AI reamer that was "SAAMI" in the neck to get a tight-necked 6.5/06 AI. By turning necks not all that much in the 6.5, and having the usual factory clearance with the .25 necks, he had one chambering reamer, two pilots, and could get two different chambers.
 
I cut a 1 x 4 board and fit it so when the barrel is clamped in the vise with the action upside down, the board fits between the floor and the barrel immediately in front of the action. That way when I clamp my wrench on the action and give the handle a good whack the assembly is sort of supported and the barrel breaks loose quite easily.

The biggest job has always been getting the short factory rib off the barrel and the pins out of the holes without screwing them up too much.
 
When I started rebarreling my No.1's, I too worried about the possible issues with grabbing the factory barrel ahead of the hanger. Guess kinda up to the individual needs/wants.

I made up a simple barrel vise from a book(mulit-piece style), that would allow for conventional barrel bushings or the possible use of relieved bushings(no.1 specific). If one uses the relieved bushings, the barrel vise design has to allow for the hanger protrusion(block has a relief cut in each half).

The relieved bushings allow the barrel to be grabbed(not a total circumference grab) at the reciever. The cutouts in the bushings/block allow for the movement of the hanger, only a little ways, then the barrel has to be regrabbed; but the barrel can be removed in due time with the grabs at the receiver. One might consider making the relief cut in the block as small as tolerable, to get a fuller grab on the barrel. I made up a set of such relieved blocks/bushings, but have honestly never used them as the original No.1 barrels were never reused. All were removed with the barrel vise grab just in front of the hanger. The idea of a support under the barrel with the front of hanger grab routine, is a good one.

I use aluminum bushings in my barrel vise, cut oversize and final cast with acragel, that way I get a nice form fit to the barrel. For an action wrench, my homebrew wrench has the ability for two flat surfaces, which I pad with lead shims. I use an insert that mimics the breechblock to help support the action walls during barrel removal, especially on an all factory barreled receiver. As posted before, a good quick whack on the action wrench handle usually is the ticket, rather than putting 250# over 2feet. Everyone has their own thing.

If your rifle is an AI, chances are that the barrel has been removed before, and should not really be too heavy to get off nicely(famous last words huh?). If it has the quarter rib, the factory uses an adhesive in the rib dowels and screws, I use a heated screw driver(old one for the purpose) to apply heat down the screws, heat breaks the adhesion; others use a soldering iron. If rebarreling, one can only attempt the screws, then go from there. Brownells and Ruger sells the screws/dowels if needbe. One has to be careful with a factory installed quarter rib, can be distorted when easing over the dowels etc.

Dennis S. has always been most gracious with sharing his experience.

FWIW,

Rick
 
I have removed a good number of #1 barrels and have yet to notice any type of adhesive in the threads or dowels. To remove the 8-36 screws, take a 3/16 pin punch and give the top of each screw a good whack; they will come right out. I set the barrel, rib up, in the mill and drill and tap each dowell for a 6-48 puller I made up. It is a small version of the hammer ones used for pulling bearings. When ri-installing the rib, put the dowells back in with the hole down, they are blued on both ends so you will not be able to tell they have been altered.
 
# 1

Ruger # 1 bbl.s are not screwed in too tight ,so uaually alot of force is not needed to crack them free . If your are going to leave the breech block in the reciever when removing the barrel do not forget to remove the extractor.

Chris
 
Good stuff!

Thanks guys,
Good information here and I will put it to good use! I have some ideas already from your input. I chose the 6.5 x 55 by accident really as a friend passed away and left a bunch of goodies which included a brand new set of 6.5 x 55 dies. After some research about this calibre I was very impressed. It isn't much of a jump from the .250AI to 6.5 x 55 but I can haul a little heavier bullet and it apparently should be accurate and a mild shooter. Other rifle is a .338 mag and this will compliment the armoury with something a little different.

Thanks
LT
 
I wish I could find a "de barreling a Ruger #1 by the numbers for idiots" set of instructions.

I am guessing it looks something like:
1) Take off the butt stock
2) Take off the fore stock
3) Get the scope mount rib off with a hammer and drift
4) Put the barrelled action in the barrel vise
5) Put tape on the action
6) Open the action so the extractor is not stopping rotation
7) Turn the action with a giant Crescent Wrench.


I am already to step 3).
How far off am I on the other steps?
 
???

Clark ,

I am not sure if you are trying to make be smart or what type of remark you are trying to make in regards to others methods ?

Chris
 
chris k said:
Clark ,

I am not sure if you are trying to make be smart or what type of remark you are trying to make in regards to others methods ?

Chris
Click to expand...

I am looking for some incremental steps.
I have taken the barrels off ~ 100 bolt actions.
I don't want to screw up my #1 taking the barrel off.
 
Do not use adjustable "Crescent" style wrenches.

I prefer to remove the wood and strip the action.

I remove the top rib scope base.

I have a bushing that will grab the barrel just ahead of the hanger.

I clamp this in the barrel vise with the hanger up so I can place a board from the barrel to the floor to give support to everything hanging out on the action side of the vise. The action and 7 or 8 inches of barrel are hanging out...

I use a clamp wrench on the flats of the action. I place thick hard paper between the clamp and the action so it doe not mark it.

With the wrench clamped to the action with the handle pointing straight left, I smack the handle a good whack with a heavy bronze hammer and the action pops loose from the barrel.

Remove the wrench and the support board and unscrew the action.

You set it up the opposite way to install the barrel.

Clamp wrench
clamp%20wrench.jpg
 
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