Ruger #1 Forearm?

T

tlo

New member
I have a 1V in 6.5 Creedmore, about 50 rds fired so far, some Hornady factory loads and a couple of handloads. Doesn't group anything very good. Anyway, I can move the forearm side to side at the tip, so I started searching on the internet to see what I could find on bedding the forearm, that's kind of a mixed up affair, one says the barrel has to be floated, another says not, one guy beds the forearm to the barrel, another puts shims between the forearm hanger and the barrel, etc, etc. So, I started digging thru past issues of PS and I found two articles. One was in the Nov 95 special edition issue by John F Herrold, the other in the Nov 94 special edition issue by Merrill Martin. I read somewhere on the internet that Mr. Martin's way was good, but since then the Hick's Accurizer has come out and it works just as good.

I'm LOST here, any help would sure be appreciated.

Thanks, Tom
 
Tom,

You may be remembering one of my post's from years gone by in regards to Mr. Martin's method for bedding a Number 1. I followed his directions to a "T" when bedding my Number 1 Varmint in .220 Swift and it helped considerably. Prior to bedding, it strung vertically. After bedding, they groups got nice and round. I can't remember the exact measurements, but I wanna say I went from about 1.5-1.75 inch groups to about .75 or so.

Hope this helps,
Justin
 
I have had good success with 'floating' the forend. I bed the sides of the forend for about an inch starting at the action and the front of the hanger and float the rest of the barrel. The only part of the barrel touching is the little bit on the sides at the rear. Below the barrel takes quite a bit of clearance as the hanger is springy. Re-barrels with this method usually are under 1/2 inch in smaller calibers.
 
Tom,

I would not feel like the lone arranger with how some no.1's shoot.... :) Some are quite fussy it seems. I too have read on the internet about enhancements for accuracy, sure a lot of hard earned facts huh?

As you know the first thing about a No.1 is its cosmetics, a heavy target gun it is not accuracy wise. Not sure about the type of groups you expected, we all seem to expect 1/4" groups nowadays; which probably is quite a feat with a no.1.

One thing you have going for you is that you have the heavier, stiffer barrel. The No.1A's can be trying at times. If it was mine, I would pull the forearm; and shoot it off bags. If it does not shoot reasonable without the forearm, no need in fooling with said interface. The other thing about no.1's is that their trigger is a multilink system. The old three screw triggers had an adjustment for sear/hammer engagement; Ruger removed that adjustment with its later 2 screw(pull and overtravel only) trigger which I am sure your new one has. The lock time of a no.1 is pretty lengthy; so try to follow thru your shot.

One thing cheap to do is to use the o-ring on the forearm screw. An old article by Keith is where I heard about such. However I never could figure from the article just exactly where the o-ring went. I knew it went over the forearm screw, but inside or outside of the forearm? I have never tried outside, but have had fair success with the o-ring between the hanger and the forearm over the screw. This floats the barrel from the forearm to some degree. The new drill/tap of a screw thru the forearm hanger onto the barrel thru a pad, never did much for me on a regular basis. Just my experience, others may have differing experiences with such.

Can your reloads touch the rifling? Some Ruger chambers have long throats. Is the bullet matched to the rifle's twist? Perhaps handloading might help out, not sure on all of that; not all are into handloading.

Over the years, I have the habit of rebarreling the ruger no.1's that I own, put on a Shilen, Hart, Lilja blank and things got better for me. Will they for you? You pays your money and sees what happens.

I suspect that your trigger pull is pretty heavy. The Austrian set trigger system($$$$$) takes some of that out of the equasion. All in all, one has to manage the shot/followthru with the No.1.

I have read and so noted on some of my rebuilds, that when one pulls the quarter rib off the factory barrel; it can show a lot of warpage; almost like tensioning of the rib metal. Not all have done that for me, but some did. I have tried to straighten some of them, some came out straighter after a flexing; had one snap in two.

Shooting the no.1 is a real trip once any bugs are worked out, enjoy it.
 
I have floated the barrel on these by adding a set screw to the hangar (hanger?) to bear against the barrel to keep it from flexing between the barrel an forend; that and class bedding it. The one thing that I suspect, but cannot prove, is the effect the rib on the barrel has on accuracy. I feel that it is fitted to tightly and when the barrel heats up it causes funny thing s to happen. The models with the scope blocks don't seem to have the same problems. Just my two cents worth.

Jim
 
Jim, that's not really floating the barrel, more of a rearward pressure point. I haven't done that but I have heard it helps accuracy in many instances. The one piece scope mount is a problem if it isn't fitted correctly. Number 1's will never shoot as well as a bolt action if both have good barrels...
 
Dennis,
To your point about the scope mount, Near Manufacturing has proto-typed a Pic Rail for the #1.
The one I have seen was for the Tropical barrel configuration. It did look good.
DanO
 
I would say it is floating. I glass bed the forend hanger to the forend. It is no different that glassing an action and leaving a pad area in front of the receiver. The problem with your method is in the hanger itself; it will flex when you apply any pressure to it. The set screw in the forend stops this
 
I bed the two back flats of the forearm giving a little clearance to the curve part below.

And the area where the fore end screw both sides and bottom - tape clearance on front .

The last time I rebedded this I did two other flats on the hanger and side above this to make it even more stable.

Everything else floats .
Check the butt contact too.
I am currently refinishing the stock.


P6255248.jpg
[/IMG]

The rifle is an early 7 mm Rem and shoots under one inch at 200 for three round groups.

If you do everything EXACTLY the same each shot.
I hold the fore arm resting my hand on the bag and use rabbit ears at the back.


Glenn:D
 
Jim Kobe said:
I would say it is floating. I glass bed the forend hanger to the forend. It is no different that glassing an action and leaving a pad area in front of the receiver. The problem with your method is in the hanger itself; it will flex when you apply any pressure to it. The set screw in the forend stops this
Click to expand...

Isn't the set screw the contact with the barrel? And with it you can increase or decrease pressure?

I am not criticizing this method. It works well as does mine. Both are an improvement over the factory.
 
Second time, I hit the "post reply" by mistake.

Anyway, I only tighten the set screw enough to keep it from flexing when applying pressure against the forearm to keep it from touching the barrel.
 
Stonewall said:
I bed the two back flats of the forearm giving a little clearance to the curve part below.

And the area where the fore end screw both sides and bottom - tape clearance on front .

The last time I rebedded this I did two other flats on the hanger and side above this to make it even more stable.

Everything else floats .
Check the butt contact too.
I am currently refinishing the stock.


P6255248.jpg
[/IMG]

The rifle is an early 7 mm Rem and shoots under one inch at 200 for three round groups.

If you do everything EXACTLY the same each shot.
I hold the fore arm resting my hand on the bag and use rabbit ears at the back.


Glenn:D
Click to expand...

This is it!!
I have done many No. 1s this way. I used a thin metal shim at the front to build up the contact between the hanger and forearm and then bedded the back of forearm fit to the receiver. This will sure help a No. 1 shoot to its potential. That and near perfect gun handling on the bags.
 
Also on the early #1's at least check that the back of the scope mount does not touch the action face.
This contact will change after firing a few rounds because of barrel heating.

I need to remove the rib and relieve this slightly on my four digit serial # 1.
This is one of the reasons I shoot three shot groups.

A big factory chamber with a Douglas barrel is quite interesting to shoot.

If you do EVERYTHING exactly the same you get a big smile .:D

A $55 Canjar ss trigger( a few years ago ) helps on my rifle but the standard #1 trigger can be worked over for a crisp light pull.

Drill and tap the new style trigger for a Weaver 6-48 scope mount screw to replace the original sear adjustment removed in later production then heavy duty locktite.









Glenn:D
 
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I have heard of drilling a hole in the hammer(hard stuff) and putting in a rollpin or stud(filed to one's needs) to control the sear/hammer engagement......kinda like the old Marlin 39's.

Can one drill/tap the newer triggers for the sear engagement? For some reason I thought that portion of the trigger was removed by Ruger on their new triggers. Guess I need to take another look huh? :)
 
Bought a Moyers trigger from Brownells years ago, easy to install on my 1-V, and I adjusted it down to about 3 lbs. Nice trigger.
 
Some one with cnc stuff should design and produce a blue steel trigger to replace the factory one .

Not like Moyers but the same as used on a few fine custom Ruger # 1's.

Glenn
 
Clements Custom Guns makes a replacement trigger for the #1, it's just like the old 3-screw factory trigger only it's a nice smooth trigger shoe with no ribbing.

Tom
 
in my ruger no 1 220 swift ,i have a accuriser block in the forend and custom trigger shoots sweet as a nut with reloads
 
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