Round stuck in chamber

Bulletman,

How will removing the barrel from the action remove the cartridge from the breech? I have to gently say that I doubt you have ever been forced to removed a "really" stuck round. You still would have to pound/bore out the cartridge from the barrel after it was removed from the action.

Scott
 
Removing the barrel

shevelin said:
Bulletman,

How will removing the barrel from the action remove the cartridge from the breech?
Scott
Click to expand...

It doesn't... but it makes it easier to access the cartridge for removal? nhk
 

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Had a 220 Swift get stuck in a chamber of my Rugar Mod. 77. I made the mistake of forcing it while closing the bolt. I thought it would close completely. WRONG!!! The guys at the range helped me. The bolt opened, but the round would not come out even with pounding the bolt handle. The guys that were more experienced than I used my expensive cleaning rod to hammer down the bore on top of the unfired round until the projectile was driven back into the case and finally out of the chamber. They did try to be careful that the cleaning rod would go down range if it discharged. When I looked at the case after it was removed you could see the indention of a kernel of powder which was between the case and the chamber. I have always been very careful when cleaning my loaded rounds to take off the sizing lube with a rag and alcohol. This was the first and only time in 40 years of reloading and 50 years of shooting for this to happen.

gt40
 
Scott,

Like most internet forums, you haven't a clue as to how many or how "really" stuck a cartridge I have ever removed... and I'm being gentle. Nor did I say that removing the bbl from the action would remove the cartridge from the chamber, I DID however answer the question concerning the Brownells tool. I for one have never been a fan of hammering on any loaded round in any fashion, regardless of where I was standing.
 
As it turns out, 5 or 6 of the loads I did with the last batch were approx .002 larger just ahead of the web. That is just enough larger to make those rounds really stick in the chamber just before the bolt lugs would normally engage . Running those rounds back through the sizing die does not help. First time for that condition. Must have run them pretty hot the first time I loaded them.
 
Bulletman,

If the Brownell's tool does not remove the case from the barrel before or after you remove the barrel from the action, how do you remove the stuck case from the chamber? In your experience, what is the best way to complete the removal of the badly stuck case in this instance? Sorry if my ego was a bit too strong in the previous post.

Scott
 
Scott,

The Brownells tool is a slide-hammer with a collet that you open up, slide it into the action and over the case head, tighten the collet portion (whereas it grips the case head completely by the extractor groove) and then slide the hammer portion of the tool to the rear and it PULLS the cartridge or case out of the chamber, meanwhile the collet is relieved so that at no point is there any contact with the primer. You can get different collets for the various size case heads. IF the tool fits into your action you can do this without removing the action from the bbl, otherwise you could still safely pull the stuck cartridge with the bbl removed. The tool was priced at around $100 when I bought mine, I'm not sure what they run now.

I have a friend who has lost partial use of his hand after dropping a cleaning rod down the muzzle of a lever action rifle to knock a loaded round out of the chamber, the cleaning rod went thru the ceiling and was protuding about eight inche thru the roof of his house.

I too apologize, it's way too easy to get sideways with people on these computers, no problem.
 
Hey guys?????


GOOD ON YA!!! All y'all let the egos drop and got on with it...... good job :)

This is a good forum

al
 
Willdo Al, I look more than I post--- 'cuz it way too easy for me to get into a tif,,,,,,,,

thanks for noticing and the attaboy.

:D
 
Al, Bulletman,

I have been offline a couple of days and just read the recent posts. I actually was a bit upset with myself for my belligerent response to Bulletman's original post. Sorry, it was rude and shouldn't have been made. My "trigger point" anger was from what I saw as someone giving a flippant easy answer to what is sometimes a very dangerous and difficult task. In my original post what I said was that some cases are "really" stuck by some customers and there isn't always a way to grab the case to remove it. They tear the rims off, take vise-grips and mangle the remainder of the case rim and in general make it impossible to use something rational like the Brownell's slide hammer tool. I thought I had made it clear that the method I described was absolutely last ditch, and was something that needed to be done by a professional. Despite the fact that there is some risk in hammering things out I still believe that this is only way that some cases can be extracted. Using the precautions that I outline, it will work without danger, but obviously is not something that carless people can accomplish. Maybe I should not have posted it. You have been a gentleman about our conversation and I appreciate your point of view. Damn, we might become friends over this...

Scott
 
:D, "Nuff said,

NOW I'm gonna throw fuel on this fire,,,,,,, what is any of you guys opinions on IF you pull the rim off the case meaning you can't get a hold on the case with sufficient grip to wrangle it out of the case, and have removed the bbl from the action,,,,, of chucking the bbl up in a lathe and parting the base of the case (with plenty of coolant flowing of course) in order to remove the powder/primer and THEN using a dowel or brass rod and hammering the offending case and bullet out of the chamber? Which is the highest calculated risk? Hammering on a live cartridge or cutting the case head off.....

Bulletman
 
shevelin said:
Working with the general public a few days a weeks as a commercial gunsmith, I get lots of these stuck rounds to deal with. Gentler is better and that is the way to proceed, but sometimes nothing works and you are the last resort to get things fixed. Now there is stuck, really stuck and @#@! stuck. At level three (often because the customer has already tried his best to remove the rim, has pounded, etc.) you need to resort to the hammer and rod method. The rod needs to be almost bore diameter with a cone shaped (center drill) end to center on the bullet nose and a small outside radius to prevent bore damage. The rifle is placed in a padded vise and the muzzle is pointed up and in a safe direction. Pour in lots of Kroil. Make sure that the primer cannot hit a sharp place on the way out (plug the bolt raceway with something soft). Put on safety glasses and gloves and if you are a pessimist, hearing protection. Now take a large hammer and tap the end of the rod. Tap again. We are looking for good momentum here, not peening blows. Often it will come out with a few light taps. If not, increase the strength of the blows until the rod starts to move downward.. At this point the round may not have come out, but you will have succeeded in driving the bullet into the case (stage 3 stuck). Pour in WD 40, Kroil or other liquid into the bore to help kill the now exposed powder/primer and give it a few minutes to work. Then you can seriously lay on the hammer and things will soon come loose.

This sounds dangerous, but is only marginally so. If the case explodes it will mostly work at blowing itself out of the gun and tearing it's own head off. Some brass shrapnel blowing out at the chamber would be the worst of the scenerio, This obviously would not be good and needs to be protected against, but it is really unlikely as I have done many of these over the years and never had a round go off - there is nothing to ignite the powder except the very shielded primer or an unlikely spark off the rod. I keep my hands, etc away from the muzzle and breech. As a side comment, I also charge the customer double the normal rate for the "pucker factor". If a slide hammer puller with a case head attachment is available and use of freon "cooling" sprays are at hand, give them a try first, but the hammer and rod method always works.

Scott
Click to expand...
 
Never liked hammering anything out with a live primer/round. Particularly with a locked up bolt. Method i have used for eons involves bore sized tube a rod with a small drill bit brazed or welded on. Rod being smaller than tube id so a couple of centering slugs with a slot along length of same brazed in place on rod . Bore soaked full of penetrating oil manually crank bit down through projectile, kills powder and primer. Now things can be tapped on relatively. safely. Sliding a rod down and tapping on a projectile in a case with powder and primer intact not to mention a firing pin that may be cocked, way above my pay scale.
 
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