Rodzilla T Rex rest
- Thread starter DHuffman
- Start date
DHuffman
Member
Been a long cold winter up here but I had it out to shoot off Saturday
When I got it I had to get the IBS legal top from Rod.
Got a 2 piece joystick thinking it could be cot down on the skinny end
Put together some bench type leveling screws and picked up a couple of 4" bags to try out.
Made a smaller leveling screw knob for the front screw to clear the fore end stop.
Made a Garmin mount out of a SAC Forster die lock ring.
Made an ammo holder out of a cheap Sharz indicator holder and a a Sinclair holder.
Shooting off a Randolph the last several years it's going to take some getting used to but I think I'll make it work and grow to like it.
When I got it I had to get the IBS legal top from Rod.
Got a 2 piece joystick thinking it could be cot down on the skinny end
Put together some bench type leveling screws and picked up a couple of 4" bags to try out.
Made a smaller leveling screw knob for the front screw to clear the fore end stop.
Made a Garmin mount out of a SAC Forster die lock ring.
Made an ammo holder out of a cheap Sharz indicator holder and a a Sinclair holder.
Shooting off a Randolph the last several years it's going to take some getting used to but I think I'll make it work and grow to like it.
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Fuj
New member
It never ends Dave !! I've been using mine for a couple of years now. Made
my own non skid 3" feet, and my own top to run 4" wide stocks. Top is actually
very similar to an original Bald Eagle, and I already had quite a few bags I like.
Gone is the forward stops. all my custom chassis have the stop built into the
fore end design. Nothing bad to say about Rods tops but just needed some-
thing to suit me for what I do. I'll try to get another pic later but in the mean
time. I'm experimenting with an extreme barrel drop. Bag actually has a dimple
in it to clear the barrel......You know me. Can't leave anything alone !! LOL
my own non skid 3" feet, and my own top to run 4" wide stocks. Top is actually
very similar to an original Bald Eagle, and I already had quite a few bags I like.
Gone is the forward stops. all my custom chassis have the stop built into the
fore end design. Nothing bad to say about Rods tops but just needed some-
thing to suit me for what I do. I'll try to get another pic later but in the mean
time. I'm experimenting with an extreme barrel drop. Bag actually has a dimple
in it to clear the barrel......You know me. Can't leave anything alone !! LOL
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DHuffman
Member
I have all kinds of bag holder parts and was very close to building my own setup using a Sinclair holder and probably will yet.
The biggest drawback for me is the lack of "real estate" up on the bridge because of the elevation gear post. It won't allow for a 6" bag holder which I've been running a 6" fore end on my HG/Rendezvous for a few years now.
The top is very nice and he made it to fit a bag (new Farley) that was already on the market. Personally I'd have made it to fit a Sinclair pattern bag.
The Sinclair's lightly wider front to back and side to side making the ears thicker is better in my opinion.
The biggest drawback for me is the lack of "real estate" up on the bridge because of the elevation gear post. It won't allow for a 6" bag holder which I've been running a 6" fore end on my HG/Rendezvous for a few years now.
The top is very nice and he made it to fit a bag (new Farley) that was already on the market. Personally I'd have made it to fit a Sinclair pattern bag.
The Sinclair's lightly wider front to back and side to side making the ears thicker is better in my opinion.
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Fuj
New member
It's an anti brain fart device.....My guns run at 22 lbs. and have a real good
balance set up on the counter weight springs. I just swap rifles and go. Early
on when I first started using the rest, I noticed the bridge was drifting down,
then it got to the point that I ran out of joy stick to cover a UBR or IBS target.
I'd grab the adjustment rod (handy) loosen the lock down screw, raise the
bridge, then lock it back down. I rechecked all the setting screws and knobs
at the back of the bridge everything good to go and took it to it's first UBR
match......Half way thru the match, the bridge drifted down and running out
of time. I was able to use the rod and raise it again in time......Simply put, I
needed more tension on the drag screw on the back of that square post, and
remember to lock down the front screw......At that point, I decided to come up
with a "positive" stop method that would ensure bridge drift would never happen
again.......I actually have two of those screws. One on either side of the top.
As for wanting to run a 6" bag ?? Been looking at that and have it on the bucket
list. One nightmare at a time, but i think it can be done.
DHuffman
Member
It could be done running the bridge high enough to clear the elevation post. Then you'd need to elevate with shims or get a taller rear bag to lower the muzzle.
All that can bring it's own problems.
I'm going to put some miles on it as is and ponder it some but I agree it can be done.
All that can bring it's own problems.
I'm going to put some miles on it as is and ponder it some but I agree it can be done.
Fuj
New member
I jotted down a couple of ideas some time back but got lost in the shuffle.
I do know my plan was to get a hold of Protecktor and have them do a
custom bag for me, then build around that. I still have all the original top
parts that look about the same as you are currently using. I need to get an
accurate measurement on its left to right range of motion to see what could
shake. I would prefer to keep everything as low as possible on the bridge.
I do know my plan was to get a hold of Protecktor and have them do a
custom bag for me, then build around that. I still have all the original top
parts that look about the same as you are currently using. I need to get an
accurate measurement on its left to right range of motion to see what could
shake. I would prefer to keep everything as low as possible on the bridge.
Fuj
New member
I need to take a few more measurements, but I may have a viable plan. The first
measurements does show an off set problem. This could cause a weight shift
problem but also could be corrected with the springs under the bridge. Maybe
a heavier spring to the offset side for correction.......However.....I pulled out my
top I'm not using and went "HMnnnnnnnn", What if I......
I'm tied up this month with what I need to get done for my upcoming match
season, but may sneak something in as time permits.
measurements does show an off set problem. This could cause a weight shift
problem but also could be corrected with the springs under the bridge. Maybe
a heavier spring to the offset side for correction.......However.....I pulled out my
top I'm not using and went "HMnnnnnnnn", What if I......
I'm tied up this month with what I need to get done for my upcoming match
season, but may sneak something in as time permits.
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Fuj
New member
We are pretty much on the same page. Cutting the top in half crossed my mind
since It's only used for experimentation. My thoughts at this point are to mill a slot
in the right tension plate so that it can slide into the square riser post. That adds more
side to side space. I'd then reposition the mounting holes so the pin that the
tensioner pivots on just clears that square post when the top is adjusted hard right.
I'd also go about more milling on the original top to to thin the insides of the tension
plates to free up more width space.....Will those L-bags bags slide into the T-Rex top,
or would some machining need to be done ?? I would rather use something like that
since I'm moving to slamming the barrels lower then anyone has been doing. May
even entertain suspending a barrel even lower. I like to kick rocks never kicked before....LOL !!
As it is, I have a 30" Hart Max Varmint in the lathe now, I need to get done for another one
of my .284 cats, plus a a bullet making press project I never figured I'd ever get into but, it
will coincide with this new barrel project. They are all more then 2 beer jobs.....!!
since It's only used for experimentation. My thoughts at this point are to mill a slot
in the right tension plate so that it can slide into the square riser post. That adds more
side to side space. I'd then reposition the mounting holes so the pin that the
tensioner pivots on just clears that square post when the top is adjusted hard right.
I'd also go about more milling on the original top to to thin the insides of the tension
plates to free up more width space.....Will those L-bags bags slide into the T-Rex top,
or would some machining need to be done ?? I would rather use something like that
since I'm moving to slamming the barrels lower then anyone has been doing. May
even entertain suspending a barrel even lower. I like to kick rocks never kicked before....LOL !!
As it is, I have a 30" Hart Max Varmint in the lathe now, I need to get done for another one
of my .284 cats, plus a a bullet making press project I never figured I'd ever get into but, it
will coincide with this new barrel project. They are all more then 2 beer jobs.....!!
Attachments
Fuj
New member
I need to set up the mill for the bullet press project, but took a couple of
minutes to go ahead and do a clearance slot on the right side tension plate.
Now with everything centered, I have 6.625" between plates. I could gain
about another 1/4" by facing off the inside of the left plate. Very doable now
with thin ear bags.
minutes to go ahead and do a clearance slot on the right side tension plate.
Now with everything centered, I have 6.625" between plates. I could gain
about another 1/4" by facing off the inside of the left plate. Very doable now
with thin ear bags.
