resurrection of a 1965 Rem 40X 22 lr

D

D2xshooter

Dalek
Hello to all, I have just revived my first rifle - a 1965 Rem 40 X 22 lr. I had the stock, trigger and bolt cleaned and tung oiled. The rifle looks great. Went out the other day and shot the rifle with some old Eley red and practice ammo. At fifty yards I was able to shoot some nice groups given the wind and the scope. I would like to learn form Forum denizen's ideas and experiences. My questions are the following:
Can you recommend a tuner for the rifle?
Where can I secure the rules for 50BR and appropriate targets?
What about a front and rear rest? Type and manufacturer?
What type of scope should I consider as I plan to shoot 50 and 100 yards? What sort of reticle should I have and is there a preferred brand? I have recently looked at a Nightforce benchrest scope and a Weaver 36X. The Nightforce was very clear. The 36x was a job to steady. The price difference was 3 (Nightforce) to 1 (weaver). I like variable power scopes and mil dots from my air rifle FT shooting.
What would be your preferred 22 lr ammo? I also shot some new CCI standard, Eley sport, and Rem std vel.
What type of wind flags should I buy and how many do I need for 50 and 100 yards.

I appreciate any information from BR shooters as I regard this community as having gone through the $$$ growing pains I am about to experience. I would like to learn from your experience. I plan on keeping my USA made 40X and will learn to shoot it well. I do not plan on buying any other BR guns. As far as matches are concerned, I have very limited time and usually shoot at a private range that allows me to set up my own targets. Their benches are so-so but I will make them work for my shooting. Basically, I am out to better my shooting and my personal score and groups.

Thank you to all who may respond, Dale in Miami, Fl.
 
Dale, if I was in your shoes, as a matter of fact I was, same rifle, I'd try to buy everything used, expect to spend way less then new. the only thing you really need new is your muzzle device because that has to be machined to fit your unique barrel diameter, a Harrel's or a Von ahrens MD. If the scope will be dedicated to benchrest, I'd get a Weaver 36X with target dot. For a front rest you will need one that has a soft bag, like a Sinclair, because of your factory stock, with windage knob and rear speed screw. i'd start out with at least 3 wind flags. Targets you can buy from any of the benchrest orgs, click on home and click on your desired organization. Ammo, that depends on your pocketbook. Thanks, Douglas
 
Dale, Douglas said it all. One thing he left out, is RUN, it's too late for us. Seriuosly, go to Killough Shooting Sports web site, and check to see what used equipment he has for sale. Also look up the rules for ARA, and Unlimited IR50/50 or RBA, With that model 40X, that's where you would have to shoot it. Good shoooting
Fred J
 
Dale,
Nobody makes Muzzel Devices so get a Tuner.
In general thou your need to get a quality rest and rear bag.
( I would not get a Sinclair unless you plan to replace the windage top!)
Next would be a BR quality Scope.
You will also need to piller bed your rifle.
If you do nothing eles get a Jewell Triger.
If you have any questions just call or email - I am a 40X fan!
Doug

http://team40x.com/
 
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DSCN1384.jpg caldwell base/fudd top, protektor rear, jewell trigger. agree a tuner works best, lets a shooter be accurate even at 27 degrees.....
 
D2x Shooter said:
What is 27 degrees? Is that a new magic part? Here in Miami I asked several shooters the same question and we are all at a loss. Ps 68 degrees today and rising...
Click to expand...

rub it in, 22 today, 2" of snow last night another 3-5" tonight, 68 sounds awfully good. just saw the bowl line ups, looks like penn state will be in tampa jan 1 sounds good. lol
 
Does your 40x have the stock tuner screws? I have one that does. I have to commit to getting thet rifle and stock tuned this coming summer..

Anyone use the stock screws and care to outline your procedure?

Thanks
Chuck
 
Anyone use the stock screws and care to outline your procedure?
Click to expand...

I'm going to speak out of turn here but here goes.....

Remington says to very lightly let the screws touch the barrel. Remington suggest using some kind of electronic buzzer devise -put one lead on the barrel and the other lead on the screw head -when the screw touches the barrel and completes the circuit with the barrel the buzzer will go off or an autobile tone is heard.

The second story -everyone says just back off the barrel screws until they do not touch. I think everyone agrees the screws are useless for tuning purposes- just back 'em off and don't use the tuning screws.

I have a used 40X i bought from the CMP six months ago -first one i had ever seen -and i to was wondering about the tuning screws! I was in awe of the massiveness of a 22 rimfire, it was great!...............

The key thing for me how did Remington build some say the best Rimfire ever and just TOTALLY MISS THE IDEA OF TUNING SCREWS....???

Here is where i'm going to speak out of turn or "against the grain"... I come to the conclusion those barrel tuning screws are not for tuning, Remington did not make a mistake... The 2 front screws in the stock are for support of the massive barrel !! With a floating barrel that heavy without some kind of front support over the years the stock will crush where the action screws are.

I think it was cheaper for Remington to install the barrel screws than to properly bed each and ever rifle -even driving the retail price up more than necessary. Now i don't think anyone agrees with me -the tuning screw myth is too imbeded into the shooting public. Remington says just touch the barrel with the tuning screws (i think for support)... It just don't make sense for someone smart enough to build the perfect Rimfire and "blow it" on so called tuning screws..... just my view on this... joe
 
Maybe we can get a couple more comments about the 'tuning screws'. Your post puts the light at a little different angle, on the screws..

I have tried the screws with up to 6 clicks/screw after contact is made. No difference in group. This spring Im going to start the tension at about 10 clicks/screw and go up.
 
Those "electric" tuning screws have been around long time. Look at Winchester 52's, particularly D's and E's. There was a time when they were thought to be the "only way to go". Of course this was before we started tuning beyond the muzzle. An old time position shooter who was very successful told me two or three years ago that there were only 3 shooters who ever knew how to make the tuning screws work properly, and they all have passed to a better life. Back em out so they don't touch (using a continuity tester thus the electric part of the name) and forget they are there. If its going to be a bench gun free float the barrel and put a modern "tuner" off the end and find the dead spot. bob
 
langenc said:
Maybe we can get a couple more comments about the 'tuning screws'. Your post puts the light at a little different angle, on the screws..

I have tried the screws with up to 6 clicks/screw after contact is made. No difference in group. This spring Im going to start the tension at about 10 clicks/screw and go up.
Click to expand...

As you go up on tuning screw pressure be aware it is actually the wooden stock that is supplying the upward pressure. It is common to find 40X stocks with the wood split out in the tuning screw area. The barrel can take a lot more pressere than a wooden stock can supply -the stock will fail first.
good luck with your adventure!.... joe
 
Never found the screws that useful. Backed them out and free floated the barrel. It only shot better after I glass bedded the action.
 
I have a 1st year production 40X with a 36x Weaver scope and I do not aim by adjusting a front rest. Some folks do, I don't. And I don't shoot free recoil. Given you have shaky benches and you are starting out to develop your skills, I suggest you not spend the money on expensive rests, tops etc. Rest the front of the rifle on an inexpensive rest or sand bag and squeeze the rear bag to help aim the rifle. Get a Weaver 36X scope, will cost about $400. Buy some middle of the road match ammo. Eley Match Black box is a good place to start. Get some wind flags. Go shoot for a year and develop your technique. If you get into IR 50/50 or similar shooting, others will talk to you about what they have and you will form up ideas as to where you want to go with this. Good luck and have fun.
 
""Buy some middle of the road match ammo. Eley Match Black box is a good place to start.""


Black box--middle of the road? Around here we can get that for $10/50. Im still down in the SK match or standard+. I did get a deal on some EPS Biathalon.
 
+1 on the SK standard Plus... It shoots in the 1040 to 1070 fps range for me with the occasional dropper- but will produce some 5 shots groups @ 50Y in the .250 range (sometimes less)........... joe
 
Well Gentlemen I just returned from a very successful shoot - at least in my book. I shot two really good groups of .2110 and .2345 using some brand new Lapua MidasL. I figured the group size by using my digital mic to measure the group at the widest point then subtracted .2235 for the diameter of the bullet. I shot the 40X with the front screws not touching the barrel. I cleaned the bore before starting with Tetra, shot five sighters, and started shooting. I shot several groups using black Eley and Jag but the best groups were with Lapua. I had some really nice groups but would get a "flier" caused possibly by me, the wind, or the ammo. The wind was gusting a bit, the benches were shakey, but weather was wonderful at 70 degrees. Yes, I did say 70 even though two days ago it was in the high 50s. Whew! I hope winter is over down here. I hand shoot everything just using the front and rear sandbags for rifle support. I do not plan on getting one of those expensive rests. In the near future I think I will upgrade the trigger to a Jewel and get a brick of new Eley match ammo and some wind flags . Next I think I will get a few BR actual targets.
 
Get some USBR targets. Will be interesting to see what a 0.211 hole equates to on the target.

I suppose about 242 or so.
 
Don't order a brick of untested ammo. Buy some test lots and see if there is some of it that your gun shows a marked preference for. The difference on the target you can see from different lots of ammo can be amazing.
 
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