Removing jeweling from bolt

J

Jason Shore

Guest
I have a remington jeweled bolt.What is the best way to remove the jeweling from the bolt ?
Would JB paste work ?
I want to do it without harming the stainless steal
any imput and surgestions appreciated
Thanks Jason
 
600 grit or finer sandpaper will work but removes more metal.
 
Spin the bolt in a lathe and use wet/dry 320 or 400 grit paper... finish with 600 grit.

You can't really "harm" the stainless steel...
 
If you remove the jeweling you must realize that the diameter of the bolt will be reduced, the bolt will be more sloppy in the raceway. A great solution would be to turn the bolt and install sleeves or "Borden Bumps".

al
 
I don't think a couple of thou off a factory bolt will make much difference in anything. I recently measured a high quality custom action and the bolt had 5 thou clearance... the same as a factory 700 I had ... Now it may be different with a serious Benchrest rifle...

That would be a good test to do. Shoot the best you can for a series of targets and then "bump" the 700 bolt with no other work... just the "bumps" and then go shoot a series of targets using the exact same load and conditions as close as can be.
 
IMO the amount of metal removed to clean off the jeweling would be of no concern. Jeweling is not very deep into the surface of the bolt body.
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
I don't think a couple of thou off a factory bolt will make much difference in anything. I recently measured a high quality custom action and the bolt had 5 thou clearance... the same as a factory 700 I had ... Now it may be different with a serious Benchrest rifle...


Mr. Dennis Sorensen would you believe, that according to your latest findings one can find it hard to accept, that actions with 0.003" runouts and 0.005" bolt clearences are still classed as high quality custom actions.

Gentleman can you believe, that if the action has 0.003" runout, then the bolt needs to have the 0.005" clearence.

Mr. Dennis Sorensen would you believe, that here for the precision orientated gentleman the name a high quality custom action is totally out of place.

Gentleman would you believe, that most gentleman rightly believe the bolt slap is detrimental to the rifle accuracy potential.

Con
Click to expand...
 
The location of the jeweling is not in the critical areas of the bolt that would influence bolt sloppiness during lockup. I fitted a Dave Kiff .700" bolt to my Rem 721 and actually used a heavy jeweling on the center section to give me a little more clearance for operating the bolt. I would think that just working on the area that the factory jeweled would do no harm whatsoever on the lockup.
 
If you polish the bolt any little speck of crud that gets between the bolt and it's bore will put long ugly scratches on the bolt.
 
What kind of conditions are using the rifle in that you would get a "speck of crud" big enough and hard enough to scratch the bolt?
I have polished the jewelling off my varmint rifle bolts since the early 70's and have not run into that proplem.
 
kansasvet said:
What kind of conditions are using the rifle in that you would get a "speck of crud" big enough and hard enough to scratch the bolt?
I have polished the jewelling off my varmint rifle bolts since the early 70's and have not run into that proplem.
Click to expand...

Well I know that sometimes when I'm huntin' CLAMS in a heavy rip there's so much grit in the water that it just gets everywhere........BLAM!, BLAM! SKrriitCH! ooooohhhh I HATE when that happens......
 
I dug clams on Whidbey Island, Washington in October of 1969. We were doing survival training and it had been catch and you can eat it for 4 days, I hadn't caught much, I still don't like clams.
 
Can a guy use the blue in a bottle to dull the jewelling? I have a few rifles that I would like dulled a little, but do not want to remove any metal. thanks, Ron Tilley
 
Ron,

Yes you can if it's a chrome moly bolt. The good side is that the bluing doesn't wear off very fast either as the only part that touches anything is the highest part of the jeweled whorls, depending on the sort of lap used this high part may be in the centers (hollow-core brush type) or on the edges (rubber lap type). The rubber lap looks a lot like a pencil eraser, in fact I've jeweled using an eraser. I made little fish scales with it.

al
 
Bolt pic

This bolt was blued and jeweled. I stripped it, and soaked the relavent bits in Phosporic acid for a couple minutes and removed all the blue. Then, I blasted it lightly, and parkerized it. The process took about 1 hour start to finish.
 

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Dennis Sorensen said:
That would be a good test to do. Shoot the best you can for a series of targets and then "bump" the 700 bolt with no other work... just the "bumps" and then go shoot a series of targets using the exact same load and conditions as close as can be.
Click to expand...

Dennis: A couple of years back, Stan Ware and I did this exact test. The test rig was my Rem. 700 HBR rifle chambered for the 30 WareWolf (308 shortened .165). The gun had always shot well and I had won a good amount of yardages and Grand Aggs with it, so it was a proven setup. When Stan did the action work, he had faced the reciever, recut the lugs and the lug abuttments, trued up the bolt face and the bolt nose and that was about the extent of the work done to the reciever, The bolt-to-reciever clearance was .005 in the front and .006 at the back as it came from Rem. and that was not changed initially.

The i.d. of the receiver was bored to .706. Stan removed the bolt handle, cut the o.d. of the bolt body down and fitted a one piece sleeve along the entire length of the bolt body complete with 'bumps' front and rear. He made the sleeve from a Sako barrel he had in the Barrel Barrel:)....where all the takeoffs go. I knew those Sock-o's were good for something! :D

Bolt-to-reciever clearance was .003 along the length of the bolt and .001 over 'the bumps'. Stan also retimed the bolt to maximize the extraction camming.

My testing after this was done was pretty interesting. The 'small groups' were virtually the same before and after the work was done. But....the way it tuned was dramatically different. The 'normal' vertical that occurred as I went up with the powder charge was reduced by almost half. The 'before' load window was 42.0-42.5 of N135. The 'after' load window broadened to 41.5-44.0 of N135. You could literally shoot it anywhere in that 2.5 gr. window and win with it.

I think the tighter fitting bolt reduced the vibrations enough to calm things down. I know the gun felt more solid after this change..though that's not a very scientific observation. ;)
 
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