Remington Bolt handle re-location

Pete Wass

Well-known member
I have a Stainless Steel Remington action with a SS bolt handle on it's bolt. There is zero primary extraction with this bolt, which isn't all that unusual, from what I have been reading. Is there someone who visits here who will re-locate my bolt handle to it's proper location on the bolt to save me from buying all the stuff necessary to do the job myself? Someone who has experience in doing them. PM me if you are out there please. I do not want the action face tig welded up instead, want the bolt handle re-located.

Thanks,

Pete
 
I have a Stainless Steel Remington action with a SS bolt handle on it's bolt. There is zero primary extraction with this bolt, which isn't all that unusual, from what I have been reading. Is there someone who visits here who will re-locate my bolt handle to it's proper location on the bolt to save me from buying all the stuff necessary to do the job myself? Someone who has experience in doing them. PM me if you are out there please. I do not want the action face tig welded up instead, want the bolt handle re-located.

Thanks,

Pete

Dan Armstrong, 'Dans40X' is your go-to altho there are ten more guys here can do it.
 
OP,
On any Rem 2 lug bolt,

Rem bolt/handles are TIMED into battery & NOT for primary extraction, depending on handle vintage said bolt/handle may be .080" to .150" out of TIME radially.

There is more to the equation than just moving the handle forward, since it's the rotational factor that accomplishes the extraction.

Modifying the handle to locate counterclockwise will allow said bolt to over rotate when in battery allowing the f/pin striker/cocking piece to hit/strike the bolt body opposite the f/pin cocking cam...a jumping body/bolt handle...not good in regards to pin fall/ignition.

Not my first rodeo....in actuality over 15,000 to date.
 
I had a new aftermarket bolt come in that over rotated when you opened the bolt such that the lugs went out of alignment with the race ways and would not pull back unless you wiggled the bolt around to get things lined up. Needless to say the bolt went back to the maker, and oh yes it was a one piece bolt not a solder job. Dan is spot on about linear and radial timing.

FWIW

Steve Kostanich
 
Ok

OP,
On any Rem 2 lug bolt,

Rem bolt/handles are TIMED into battery & NOT for primary extraction, depending on handle vintage said bolt/handle may be .080" to .150" out of TIME radially.

There is more to the equation than just moving the handle forward, since it's the rotational factor that accomplishes the extraction.

Modifying the handle to locate counterclockwise will allow said bolt to over rotate when in battery allowing the f/pin striker/cocking piece to hit/strike the bolt body opposite the f/pin cocking cam...a jumping body/bolt handle...not good in regards to pin fall/ignition.

Not my first rodeo....in actuality over 15,000 to date.

The bolt extraction cams do not touch at any position of the bolt's rotation. I have to wait a second or two to be able to open the bolt after firing to open the bolt easily. The bolt functions fine otherwise, or seems to anyway. I've watched a couple of Youtubes on these being repaired, Stan W did one a few years ago and there are a couple of others. Stan's video was very well done but I can no longer find it.

I know your reputation and that you are an expert at this. I have sent you a PM.

Pete
 
Pete,
P.M. replied.

As per a year ago-
Your SAKO extractor modified bolt w/ thru hole for extractor pivot allowing witness to the f/pin assy is a refusal of services from me...last year...this year...any year.

IF,you continue to shoot w/ said bolt in it's current condition-

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.....SAFETY GOGGLES....& A FACE SHIELD!!
 
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Pete, there's another way to address the mechanical camming if relocating the handle isn't an option. -Al
 
A little deviation from topic...

Pete,
P.M. replied.

As per a year ago-
Your SAKO extractor modified bolt w/ thru hole for extractor pivot allowing witness to the f/pin assy is a refusal of services from me...last year...this year...any year.

IF,you continue to shoot w/ said bolt in it's current condition-

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.....SAFETY GOGGLES....& A FACE SHIELD!!

Dan, is that any Sako extractor conversion? I've wondered about them, but you're in a position to see many more than I ever will...

GsT
 
Gene, I may be wrong, but Dan looks like he is targeting a bolt where the installer bored the pivot hole through the body, not just the amount needed for the extractor to function. I'm a little curious about this, since some actions/bolts (not necessarily Remington) have vent holes in them. Could it be he fears gasses forced into the bolt body could dislodge the Sako extractor?

I'm curious too.
 
I'll not repeat the stories but at least 6 people who currently post on this forum have personal experience here..... someone may mention Pat Byrne..... others will tell as how they watched a guy at their range get carted away to have the extractor removed from his face......

Many will tell as how knowing the danger they've gone ahead anyway...

Several action builders I know will share as strong an antipathy as Dan.

One in particular will get even more vocal than Dan, citing multiple instances.

I'll not enter the fray as I believe helmet laws and seatbelt laws are themselves a crime, but absolutely respect Dan's perspective.

There's a reason Sako bolts have a sliding/rotating shield in place to block the extractor from floating out and sliding gently through your optical meatus to rest beside your basal ganglia


((here's where Dr Tim can hop in and say "you stoopid"..... "extractor will NEVER make it past the superior rectus!" ..... too much fluid and dense tissue for an item of such small mass and sectional density at that velocity"...... "it'd most likely find bone, glance tumble and/or jam sideways and come to rest somewhere's in the vitreous humor!!".... )))

edited to add that BTW I don't give a rat sass about what Pete hissownself does here in terms of safety....I'm unpaid to teach safety professionally in several venues and paid to teach it in several more but most people don't learn that way. IME giving people the tools with which to harm theyselves is the ONLY way for society to evolve properly and that while I profess to be "The Safety Geek" my safety lectures only occur once. I'm that guy who has actually paid the hospital bills many many times for many many people who were warned once.



THE 5 STAGES OF MAN
#1-born
#2-poop and pee uncontrollably
#3-pay for everything
#4-poop and pee uncontrollably
#5-die

 
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GeneT
Dan, is that any Sako extractor conversion? I've wondered about them, but you're in a position to see many more than I ever will...
GsT

Gene,not any SAKO extractor modification...only improperly machined SAKO extractor mod'ed bolt bodies.

Wayne Shaw
Gene, I may be wrong, but Dan looks like he is targeting a bolt where the installer bored the pivot hole through the body, not just the amount needed for the extractor to function. I'm a little curious about this, since some actions/bolts (not necessarily Remington) have vent holes in them. Could it be he fears gasses forced into the bolt body could dislodge the Sako extractor?

I'm curious too.

Wayne,
You hit the nail on the head, per se.
Using a drill bit to penetrate the bolt body tube wall instead of the proper tooling, an end mill to machine a counter bore w/o thru penetration.


No,I do/will not plug/weld & re-machine improperly machined bolts.....but will gladly run said bolt thru a chop saw a few times to take it out of circulation.


alinwa,
There's a reason Sako bolts have a sliding/rotating shield in place to block the extractor from floating out and sliding gently through your optical meatus to rest beside your basal ganglia.

Yes, & never underestimate the Fin's or Swede's engineering abilities.
 
And TOADally off the subject (don't watch if that matters to you) is Miss Super Jenny at about 27min in this video.... I post this only because I'm somewhat Finn and it's completely against the rules for me to post anything not SISU-driven. Downright awful to talk up anything Norse....

That said, a good girl on a bolt action will thrash on the semi-auto boys day-in/day-out LOL



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JQ-H_IKzec
 
GeneT
Dan, is that any Sako extractor conversion? I've wondered about them, but you're in a position to see many more than I ever will...
GsT

Gene,not any SAKO extractor modification...only improperly machined SAKO extractor mod'ed bolt bodies.

Wayne Shaw
Gene, I may be wrong, but Dan looks like he is targeting a bolt where the installer bored the pivot hole through the body, not just the amount needed for the extractor to function. I'm a little curious about this, since some actions/bolts (not necessarily Remington) have vent holes in them. Could it be he fears gasses forced into the bolt body could dislodge the Sako extractor?

I'm curious too.

Wayne,
You hit the nail on the head, per se.
Using a drill bit to penetrate the bolt body tube wall instead of the proper tooling, an end mill to machine a counter bore w/o thru penetration.


No,I do/will not plug/weld & re-machine improperly machined bolts.....but will gladly run said bolt thru a chop saw a few times to take it out of circulation.


alinwa,
There's a reason Sako bolts have a sliding/rotating shield in place to block the extractor from floating out and sliding gently through your optical meatus to rest beside your basal ganglia.

Yes, & never underestimate the Fin's or Swede's engineering abilities.

If I'm understanding this correctly, this video is an example of "what not to do"? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXfBNO2fxfc
 
I just added a reply

to that youtube suggesting it is improper to drill through a Rem 700 bolt to install a Sako extractor and explained why. I have two of them, done by different Gunsmiths who drilled right on through. There is a much bigger hole a few degrees away done in the factory for venting I am presuming. I have witnessed an extractor being blown out so I know it is a reality. The problem comes for the poor consumer who pays to have the work done and then is stuck with something that is potentially unsafe. I'm gonna fix mine and learn to re-time my own bolt. It's the only way out for me that I can easily see. My rifle is a competition rifle so I need the bolt to work properly.
 
. . . . . . .There is a much bigger hole a few degrees away done in the factory for venting I am presuming. . . . . . . .

From this am I to presume that you believe the "unsafe" part has to do with "wekening the bolt??" Cuz it AIN'T!

You can (people do) drill lightening holes all over your bolt, the pressure is taken by the lugs,
 
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