Remington 700 extraction issue

M

MightyMouse

New member
I have a Remington 700 in .223, I had the bolt sent out to be cut and threaded for a larger knob and now it is having extraction issues and occasional failure to fire from light primer strikes, currently using a spent casing it is not extracting at all have to push the casing out with a cleaning rod, I'm not sure if they disassemble the bolt when they cut it or not, if they did is there something that might have been put back together incorrectly?

Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Tony
 
Factory loaded rounds or reloads?

Could you snap a phone pic of the boltface, angled to show the extractor and post it?



al
 
The 700 extractors are known to have softness issues We went thru batch that would just stop working, and in replacing them found that the hooks had bent in or the body was not springing back.
 
Make sure that the firing pin assembly is turned in all the way. It may lack a thread being turned in as far as it should be into the bolt body. I can’t think of a reason at all why threading a bolt knob would cause poor extraction.
 
OP,
Clean the Bbl bore & CHAMBER as if it was never fired.
Clean the inside of the bolt body of any grease.
Grease the firing pin shroud threads & re-assemble.
Grease the aft surface of bolt lugs & fwd surface of bolt handle/extraction cam surface.
Any EP- extreme pressure grease(wheel bearing) will suffice.

Clean the breech/bolt face w/ a S/S wire brush of any brass.
Snap in a new OEM extractor .....for piece of mind if you desire.

A TactiKool knob modification will not assist or hinder primary extraction.
(window licking mall ninja's see it differently)
 
It looks like it's the extractor, I looked at it and compared it to pictures of a new one and it looks flattened and there is brass shavings stuck in it, it will be a few days till I get a new extractor, I'm going to clean the crap out of it, put in the new extractor, lube it up good and see what happens.

Just to be clear I didn't think the threading of the bolt knob caused the issue, I wasn't sure if it was disassembled for the threading and then re-assembled incorrectly, or something left out.

Thanks for all the help, will update after I get parts.

Thanks,
Tony
 
Tim Singleton said:
Worst thing hit my mind is you got someone else’s bolt back
Awful thought I admit. Anyway
Click to expand...


OK, just to be clear here...... in case YOU DID get someone else's bolt back and the "deadly mismatched headspace" is a possibility...

We were all TOLD it was deadly, "awful thought!" and all that..

Well, relax. Cuz headspace never hurt nobody..... NEVER...... nobody.

And if anyone can explain how "bad headspace" from a mismatched bolt CAN be dangerous, I'm all ears .

:)

Al-safetygeek-inwa
 
That's why I stamp the last 4 of the serial number on the bolt handle root. Nice flat surface on top when bolt is closed.
 
alinwa said:
OK, just to be clear here...... in case YOU DID get someone else's bolt back and the "deadly mismatched headspace" is a possibility...

We were all TOLD it was deadly, "awful thought!" and all that..

Well, relax. Cuz headspace never hurt nobody..... NEVER...... nobody.

And if anyone can explain how "bad headspace" from a mismatched bolt CAN be dangerous, I'm all ears .

:)

Al-safetygeek-inwa
Click to expand...

Al, I see cases laying on the ground at my local range with primers protruding way out. The only way that can happen is if there was a lot of space between the face of the loaded round and the bolt face.

Nothing blew up.
 
Last edited:
Ever fired a .308 in an 30-06 chamber?

Did on purpose on a bet when we were practicing for a Garand match. Other than straight looking ejected brass, nothing happened. Round still hit the short range target 10 ring at 200, that is a 7 inch ring used for standing and rapid fire sitting.
 
NezRongero said:
Ever fired a .308 in an 30-06 chamber?

Did on purpose on a bet when we were practicing for a Garand match. Other than straight looking ejected brass, nothing happened. Round still hit the short range target 10 ring at 200, that is a 7 inch ring used for standing and rapid fire sitting.
Click to expand...

Listen to Nez, he has fired a round or several thousand.
 
NezRongero said:
Ever fired a .308 in an 30-06 chamber?

Did on purpose on a bet when we were practicing for a Garand match. Other than straight looking ejected brass, nothing happened. Round still hit the short range target 10 ring at 200, that is a 7 inch ring used for standing and rapid fire sitting.
Click to expand...

Ever fire a 308 in a 270 chamber? I didn't think it could be done but it turns out it can be done! Fellow brought a 700 in a while back because he couldn't get the bolt open. Had to remove the barrel to get it apart. The nose on the bolt had swollen up tight in the barrel counterbore. Proof that Walker and his pals new what they were doing. After turning a few thousands off the bolt nose,installing a new ejector and a new extractor we were good to go. I doubt any other action would have survived that kind of abuse.I imagine the pressure was in the three digit range or damn close.
 
OP,
Check the 4 digits inscribed into the bolt body aft end at 6 o'clock to verify w/ your last 4 of receiver serial number.

alinwa,
3 lug length options, identified by 3 different markings in any Remington bolt of which ALL 3 fall w/in SAAMI headspace specs.

Late fall a local had an issue w/a Rem 700.
2 identical rifles
2 different chambers
reloader for 30+ yrs.
complacent or in a hurry
chambered a 338Win Mag into a 300 RUM chambered rifle.
Fired & locked bolt up....tight.
Spun the BBl off
Turned the Chernobal'd brass from bolt face
Replaced the Extractor & Ejector.
Nothing set back,Nothing stretched.

Back in business w/in an hour.

Don't attempt that w/ a Controlled Round Feed rifle from any manufacturer.
 
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