Rem. 788 trigger stud

B

BobB

Guest
I have no experience with a Rem. 788. A friend of mine asked me to help him and I am at a loss. Hopefully someone here can help.

The 788 trigger group is held in place with a roll pin and a setscrew that tensions the whole group against the receiver. Apparently, when he went to replace the stock trigger group with a Timney trigger, the stud on the bottom of the barrel broke off.

It seems to be an accident waiting to happen to me and I am sure it has happened to others.

My question is...is there an accepted way to fix it? Its not a very big part. We dug the broke off part out of the trigger and as of right now there is no way to affix the new trigger to the receiver with the roll pin.

Can the receiver be drilled and tapped for some sort of fix?

Any and all comments will be appreciated.
 
not sure about a fix

i was cautioned to support the back side of the trigger with a block of wood or something to avoid your problem when driving out the pin,mine went ok,but don't know if there is a easy fix.
 
Not too hard to fix

I've had more than one of these come into my shop over the years when guys weren't careful enough when removing/replacing their trigger - they are actually quite easy to repair.

You can drill and tap the receiver where the original stud broke off. I can't remember what size thread I tapped hole for, but I'm guessing it was maybe 1/4-28 - just measure the original stud and use a screw about the same size.

Then cut the threaded section off a screw long enough to protrude the same length out of the receiver as the original stud. Install this with red Loctite and mill or file the sides of it to the same size as the original stud - make sure the trigger will slide down over it like it's supposed to.

Now drill a cross-hole through the stud in the same location as the original and you're done.

Hope this helps!

Gordy Gritters
Pella, IA
www.GordysPrecision.com
 
It did help and I appreciate the response.

It was about what I had decided must be done.I didn't use a 1/4 -28 stud,it would have been easier that what I ended up doing.

I built another stud, pretty much like the stud that was on the bottom of the barrel. I tapped the barrel for an 8-36 thread, being careful not to break through the backside where the bolt runs. I used a bottom tap to get all the threads I could get, I think I got 4,maybe 5 good theads.

I cut a stud in the mill and moved over to the lathe.Using a small 4 jaw chuck that fits in the 4C collet attachment, I dialed in the small rectangle and proceeded to turn the dia. for the threads. I then used a die to put the threads on it. It came out well, I was surprised.

I knew that the rectangle wouldn't necessarily be oriented in the right direction so I left the stud a bit long. By using the trial and error method, I would turn the stud, grind a bit off, screw it in, see where it was, grind a bit more off, I did this for about 15 minutes until it was nice and tight and parallel with the rest of the work. I did use red loctite on it.

I let it sit a bit to set up and placed the Timney trigger on it. It fit like a sock on a rooster...if was perfect. Using the hold in the trigger assembly as I guide, I placed it in the mill,squared it up and drilled the hole. I was relieved to see that it was perfect.

I inserted the roll pin in it and checked it for function. As it was, the rectangular part of the stud was a bit long and wide and interfering with the function of the safety. No big deal really, I simply knocked the pin out, removed the trigger ass. and hit it on the grinder. I removed some metal on the bottom and the front of the stud, replaced the trigger and tried it again.

This time it was perfect and acted like it should. Every thing is nice and tight and the Timney trigger which comes set for 3 lbs, is a major improvement on the factory trigger.

So now its fixed. Did I go overboard? Maybe so. I like my stuff to look pretty and somehow the idea of a stud,although easier just didn't appeal to me. Yea, I know its just a trigger stud and no one on earth will ever see it, but its the principal of the thing.

I did learn alot. If ever I see that problem again, I'll know what to do.
Once again, thanks for the response. It did make a difference in knowing that what I was doing was an acceptable fix.
 
Those 788 and 581 triggers can be improved greatly by relocating the trigger pivot pin.
 
A couple of 788 bedding tips...when bedding the action, mask off the threaded sleeve that the rear action screw threads into so that it makes no contact with the stock, on its sides or bottom. (If it makes contact, the result is similar to having action screws touch.) Also, another thing that is different is that there is a shoulder on the rear action screw that can butt against this sleeve. With the floorplate being a sheet metal stamping that sits on the surface of the stock, bedding and/or refinishing the distance from the bottom of the stock to the bottom of the action can be reduced just enough so that the shoulder on the screw bottoms on the sleeve. It will feel like you have tightened the rear action screw. but there will be insufficient clamping of the stock, and large groups will result. I solved this problem by buying a die to extend the threads.
 
Another way to bed the rear action screw is to make a pillar that will surround the threaded sleeve and contact the bottom of the action. Don't have to worry about stock compression. Jon
 
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