Rem 700 Bolt sleeve and JB Weld???

What is the opinion on using JB Weld to fix bolt sleeves to a Rem 700 bolt? Anyone had experience using this and are there better methods you have had success with?

Chris
 
It Works

I used to shoot HBR with a Remington that I did just that to. I machined a fit where it should be, about .040 deep, made a split sleeve from a piece of barrel drop, and used JB Weld to secure the split halves. I oriented the split so it was not up and down when the bolt was in battery. I also bead blasted the ID of the sleeves, and the fit on the bolt, with garnet blast medium as a prep.
I then chucked the bolt back up and machined the sleeve to the correct diameter.
I shot hundreds and hundreds of rounds through that thing, and never had a bit of trouble.......jackie
 
I've had success with epoxy (not 5 min. type) and Black Max. Neither have failed in service. I also orient the sleeve halves such that the solid part is in contact when in battery. And I polish the non-contact portion of the sleeve to be about .003 undersize. Kind of like a Borden bump.
 
I did the same method as Jackie only I used Loctite for joining cylindrical fittings...

There is no great stress on these bushings... just about any epoxy would work... if the fit is correct.
 
How much space do you allow between the bolt o.d. and the sleeve i.d. for the epoxy/jb weld?
 
How much space do you allow between the bolt o.d. and the sleeve i.d. for the epoxy/jb weld?

Close to zero... assembled dry the parts should go on and off easily...
 
Thanks.

JB Weld is impressive stuff. I once cut a 3/4" piece of steel with a hacksaw, glued back together with JB and when it was set, chucked it up and turned the bar down cutting over the "JB Welded" portion!


Dennis: what number Loctite do you use?
 
In the profession that I chose,I've fusion TIG welded several with a purge process through the bolt body and a thicker split sleeve over the bands as an external heat sink.

I've seen quite a few that were cadmium silver soldered on,but believe too much heat is required to accomplish the task in that manner.

Pure silver solder would flow out nicely also & silver (tinning) butter/flux is available.

Take no offense-I have this peeve in regards to epoxying metal parts together-it works, but is a PIA to prep for welding when not accomplished correctly.
 
Chris,
If you ever try Loctite 380 Black Max you will love it if you don't want it to come apart. It will stand a lot of heat also.
Butch
 
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