Rem 700, base holes off

Check my math......

Gordy, off memory said 0,030" off at the muzzle was about as bad as they get.

My trig says 0,06 deg or 3.6 minutes or 14 clicks on a 1/4 moa or 28 clicks on a 1/8th, so hardly enough to run out of clicks.

It could be contributing factor, if base and barrel were off additive angle. But, it seems improbable.

My vote goes to the holes.

Dial indication between centers (plastic one in muzzle) would tell the tale of the dial indicator.
 
JerrySharrett said:
You didn't put words in my mouth, I do my own talking thank you. Like I said, if the action points one way and the muzzle another, that is not good.
Click to expand...

I believe, at least Gritters does this, that he indexes his barrels so that they point UP if not perfectly in line. This, at least in theory, would add some elevation to what is already available. Since his discipline is 1000 yd and not short range BR, this is a good thing.

No doubt, there are many things contributing to better barreling jobs these days. I still suspect that it is the screws in the Remington.

I just ordered a custom action from a new maker and specifically had it made full round all the way back. I can see no justification for the ground off rear bridge on Rem 700's. When I inquired about it , the only answer was that "this is the way it has always been done."
 
There's only way to see if it's the screws are off. Put the action on a mandrel between centers on a lathe and run an idicator back and forth on the side of the base. If you don't work off the centerline of the action, your working in the dark.

I'll say this again. If you don't deal with the problems with the rear bridge your not correcting a root problem with 700's. Correct that and other issues may go away. I've learned all this dealing with Swarovski 6-24's which have a very limited windage range.

Dave
 
Dave, I Like the Way.........................................

Your thinking.:D

I place the arbor with the action mounted on it into my rotary head. I tram the arbor to get the action centered in the Y axis, use the rotary head to rotate the action to it's proper position. I bore out the screw holes with a 9/64" two flute endmill and tap with a 8-40 tap.
 
Would it not be best to examine the barreled action?

If the barrel is bent what will the action alone tell you?

Heck, a straight edge as mentioned is all that is really needed.
 
bnhpr

barrels don't bend very easily. There would be permenant marks if UPS did that good a job on it.

Never assume the outside of a 700 is true. It is neither round or straight. A starting point would be to machine new holes while on a precision mandrel setup as AJ300MAG does. Then look at the base alignmemt. Height from the front to the rear of action. Then how level is the rear base, front to back and side to side in relation to the front base. If it's off side to side it will move the scope off to one side or the other. If the rear bridge slopes to the rear, which they all do, it will rock to the rear and put the scope in a bind. The bases fit the profile of the action, good or bad, then the screws hold it all in place.

I've found proper installion of bases eliminates all but the worst problems.

Here are some numbers to back up what I say. These numbers assume using bases that are true.
I average using a .008" shim under the right rear of a 1/2" wide base on most Remingtons. Take ring height thats 1.5" to the scope centerline from the top of the rear bridge. That's .008" X 1.5/.500 so that's 3X.008"=.024" off to one side. Scope ring spacing on a short 700 is approx. 4.5" .024/4.5= .00533" taper per inch, multiply that by 3.6", which is what .001" taper inch gives you at 100yds. and your off 19.2" at 100 yds.

Dave
 
The Whole Story

It might help if we had the whole story. Was the scope purchased new? Was the gun shipped with scope installed? Possible bent body on the scope but you would see kink in the body (ring marks) if you had the scope out of rings. I have a Nikon that would not sight in and customer had tried installing on a Sako with rings backwards. That scope was bent and would adjust but not enough to get on paper at 50 yards. I realize the Nightforce has extremely thick tubing but it will bend with enough force applied.
BV
 
Boyd Allen said:
In the past, some gunsmiths have offered the service of mounting aluminum blocks to the action (properly radiused and drilled) and then putting the action in the mill vise and finishing the top of the blocks into Weaver base configuration. That way, the bases are in line with each other and the action. Can anyone remember who does this work?
Click to expand...

I am not very well known in the rifle community, but I have been doing this for some time now. Many of my customers are deer hunters and varmint/accuracy buffs who request scope mountings from time to time. I discovered that no factory production actions are true and square, and I designed a fixture which can accommodate Rem. Win. and Savage actions. The base blocks are then fabricated to properly fit the front and rear radius of the action, bolted on with 8X40 Torx and align machined for the rings. It's quite easy to do once you have an approprate fixture and sine vise. The shooters love the custom bases and rave about the accuracy.
I tried to post a picture of the fixture and machine set up, but can't figure out how to do it. It keeps telling me the picture is to big.
At any rate, that's the way I cured the problem. Works great...

Good Luck

Jerry Keefer
 
I recommended Burris inserts, up to 40 moa correction instantly. I'll make a 2 foot 30mm pipe to aid in installations. After checking my latest action, I think I'll need it as well. :rolleyes: Some day I'll get a drop port...

Thanks for the help guys,
Cheers,
Rob
 
Remington actions (with their lousy aligned scope mounting holes) and Millett Angle Lock scope rings go together like cold hands and mittens!

I use Millett Angle Locks just about exclusively because you can adjust windage at both front and rear ring...........

P1010007-vi.jpg
 
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