reaming sizing dies

A

alinwa

oft dis'd member
OK, since I DON'T have one of those cool gimbaled chuck mounts :(

I've been using a split copper ring and sacrificial aluminum wedges to true up my die blanks in the 4-jaw. It's time consuming and I'm not happy with my grip.

Anyone out there taking the time to align their blanks? If so, how?

al
 
alinwa said:
OK, since I DON'T have one of those cool gimbaled chuck mounts :(

I've been using a split copper ring and sacrificial aluminum wedges to true up my die blanks in the 4-jaw. It's time consuming and I'm not happy with my grip.

Anyone out there taking the time to align their blanks? If so, how?

al
Click to expand...
I'm not sure I follow what you're asking Al.

First, I don't do any of that sort of work in a 4 jaw, I just use a 3 Jaw and center it up. If the jaws are not trued well, I use soft jaws and bore em. If your question is, "how do I indicate on the blank", I'd say, use a fine ball stylus and indicate right on the threads. Set your lathe up for 14 tpi and run the lathe in the highest gear possible (least effort required) and just turn by hand. You only get to go one direction, but, that's ok.
 
The blank comes with the PT&G reamer in a package. It's a die blank with a reamed hole. The die surface is threaded on one end, knurled on the other, they don't chuck up perfectly straight. I indicate the hole to center just like doing a barrel only no bouncy-bounce :)

al
 
Hi, Al

I use my GTR action jig for dialing-in dies for chambering. The rear 2 sets of holes in the jig are 1.250" apart for short and long actions, but this spacing is perfect for dies. I then simply dial-in the die bore straight and true just like I do a barrel in the lathe - dial-in the die bore, predrill the chamber, bore it true, then chamber it. Works perfect!

If you don't have an action jig like that, you could easily make one by getting a tube large enough to do this (1.5" ID minimum), then drill/tap 2 sets of four opposing screws 1.250" apart, and you've got a jig that will work very well for this. This also works very well for doing shorter barrels than you can normally do in a headstock - just put the 2 sets of adjusting screws about 8-10" apart - I've done dies and short barrels this way for years.

Gordy Gritters
www.ExtremeAccuracyInstitute.com
 
Al, I think what I do is similar to your method in that I use strips of relatively soft shim stock and indicate my die blank with a long stylus indicator by bumpung it around in the jaws with a soft face hammer and moving the jaws back and forth until I have it running true to the reamed hole. I pre bore carefully and re indicate to make sure nothing moved before I ream. It is time consuming and tedious.

I think I will do what Gordy suggests and make a dedicated fixture just the right size for dies.

Scott
 
ry%3D400
 
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