rail gun question, or opinion needed.

S

skeetlee

Active member
I have been talking with a good friend of mine, and my father about building a rail gun, and i think we have decided to tackle the project. Through my research it has been suggested to me that maybe we should build the rail, so that the action is actually beaded, instead of the usual barrel block method. I can see some real advantages to this, as it would allow us to use any barrel we wish, I wouldn't have to use a big old 1.400 barrel all the time. I cant see any real disadvantages, but maybe i am missing something, or not thinking about this properly. We might even use an action block type of beading? Just not real sure. I have a couple smart folks in my corner, so i am sure we will get this done properly, we just need to decide first how we want to do it. I also have a friend that has a couple rail guns we are going to get to barrow and study, so this will help a bunch. i am open to any suggestions or thoughts you fellas may have to share.
I will also add that it has been suggested, that with some types of barrel blocks, guys are running into trouble with vibrations. I guess the rail isnt settling down before the second or third, or whatever number of shot. In other words the rail, or barrel is still vibrating from the previous shot? I wouldn't know personally as i haven't ever played with one. I think a piece of deriln or something similar placed between the barrel, and block would help that issue?
I like the idea of using an action block though. I think it would be grand to be able to play with regular LV barrels on the rail to test bullets and such. thanks Lee
 
Lee,

Just make two tops, one set up for each way, then decide. I've thought about this for a long time and have talked to many shooters who have shot both. the majority believe the barrel block will shoot best day-to-day. Several use the delrin, several do not but I don't see a disadvantage in it. The barrel block does act as a dampening device.

Building a rail is a big undertaking as the attention to detail has to be there.

Did you get my txt about the concrete work? You can look at mine while your here.

Hovis
 
Boyd Allen said:
Some good ideas to ponder....sleeved barrel (epoxy and stainless tubing, I believe) ; drop port ; carbide balls instead of delrin (not visible)
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/3319/pc070102.jpg
Click to expand...
Other good ideas -- in general go look at 1,000 yard rifles, where there are no rules. Barrels under tension, or compression, center of mass of the rifle also on the center or the bore line, at least vertically, and maybe radially?

If you build a conventional rail, it is an an opportunity to test barrels and bullets. You can also build an "unconventional" rifle, to try new thoughts on design. The problem with the latter is it still requires very good barrels and bullets. To test a design, you need to be able to swap components between one design and the other. Otherwise, the sample size needed for an analysis (least squares regression analysis) is too large. With the "swapped components" model, you still need more than one sample, but at least it is do-able by one person.

Or you could just build one and have fun.
 
I have a good friend that has a rail for sale at a very fair price and i need to make the trip to look it over. The only down side is that you have to stay with the big barrels and those come at a premium. Between my dad and howard we can build something right and make it however we want it. There are only a few places to shoot rail guns anyway so competitions inst my main priority really. Actually there is only one shoot a year that i may attend that even allows them. This is really nothing more than an escape for me, and a chance to surround myself with good people and to have some fun. I think it would be huge if we could design a rail that would allow me to use my LV and HV ppc barrels just to see if they are worthy barrels. I know they will vibrate differently when back on the wood stock but i still think you would be able to learn something. Also it would be a good way to test bullets. Bottom line really, is that it will be a fun project and it will occupy some time this winter when its to cold to play outside. When can still build this thing either way, i am just not sure what would be the most accurate way. Barrel block or bed the action and float the barrel? Lee
 
Please Call

Skeetlee Please give me a call.

Hal Toland
303-709-3436
 
Skeetlee,
I have a Hasecuster Rail gun that has the Action directly bedded to the top beam of the rail, so there is no contact of the barrel other than to the action. If I could figure out how to upload a picture I would put it up so you could see it. I can utilize any diameter barrel, although I can honsetly say I think the larger diameter barrels shoot better due to less harmonic devations. The action on this rail is an unaltered Polar and it is epoxy bedded to the top of the rail and has 2 bolts like a traditional stocked rifle would have. This gun shoots extremely well and has kept me in the running in several matches. The tracking is delrin and I think it lasts pretty well. good luck with your build. I will try to get a picture uploaded!
 
All ! Are all aluminum stocked rifles considered rail guns?
Skeetlee: I just completed my custom alu. stocked rifle and included some very different design aspects some that may or may not have been tried before to deal with Harmonics, barrel rise (before the bullet leaves the barrel) and recoil. I am only at the fire forming cases stage but I have been very pleased with how it works and shoots.
I guess if you are interested I could put some pic’s and explanations of what and why I did what I did. This project took me all of a year and a half of spare time but like you said it’s more in the journey of the thought process and creating your own rifle, It’s also great when it shoots well when you’re done.
Bill
 
bill
this sounds great! I am sure all the fellas here would like to see and read all about it. Please share!! Lee
 
Confusing Terms

What we all call a Rail Gun should really be called a "return to battery" Rifle.
That means that you can fire the Rifle without having to re-aim, with all expectations that the bullets will all go into the group.

Rail Guns are subject to the same tuning requiremnts as any other Rifle. A very well designed Rail Gun will shoot .300+ groups just like a Bag Gun if you let it get out of tune.

If you stick a mediocre barrel on a Rail, it will shoot just like a mediocre barrel on a Bag Gun, and mediocre bullets will shoot just as bad out of a Rail as they will your favorite LV.........JACKIE
 
Can someone tell me how to insert pictures with the text? I put everything in a word document but the pictures will not copy and paste.

Thanks
Bill
 
skeetlee
I think I figured out how to post pictures but then it was to big to post and telling half the story is like chopping off half your subject in a picture.
If you have a regular E-Mail address I would still be happy to send it to you.
Sorry
Bill
 
Best one I`ve seen was one Skip Otto built.He housed the barrel with an outer tube over it. filled with anti-freeze,and tensioned barrel with same set-up... solved heat,vibration and barrel warp problems in one fell swoop...
 
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