Quick question about Grizzly 12x36 4003 lathe

Well, got the stands as level as possible and lifted the lathe on. I have to work on running power next week and then build a stand after that. I may make the stand so I can utilize the cabinets underneath. Anyhow, it will be flat, heavy and 4 leveling pads.

Few more questions...
Is TTC still in business to purchase more AXA tool holders? Will Aloris AXA holders work?

On the wiring...should I run a 15 amp or 20 to it? I have a bunch of 14-3 wire to do a 15 amp...not sure what to go with.
 
Those cheaper toolholders work just fine, the toolholder screws are metric though, and SOFT. Replace those screws and they work just as well as Dorian, Aloris, or any others.
 
Lathes, mills, micrometers, calipers, tooling...... this stuff is all low tech and the cheapy stuff works fine for most.

F'rinstance I've go 15 mic's and 30 calipers from 9.00 to 400.00. They all pretty much measure equally.

Some exceptions IMO are chucks, mill vises and test indicators.

BTW the COOLEST thing I've bought lately for my lathe is this mister http://www.grizzly.com/products/Magnetic-Misting-Unit/T10121 Now grinding bits is funagain, and my 500.00 toolgrinder just sets there :(
 
A friend has a bench top 12x 36 that he built a base for out of square tubing, with diagonal bracing and leveling screws. It seems to be a lot more rigid than a sheet metal base would be, and has worked well for a number of years. He spent considerable effort leveling and testing his machine, and when and if I get a lathe I will undoubtedly do the same. When he first built the base, it was so rigid that his adjustments at the floor did not translate to the base of the lathe. What he ended up doing is building screw adjustments into the diagonal braces so that he could tweak the stand to level and tune his lathe for bed twist. I believe that the time that he spent doing this was a good investment toward the quality of his work. He purchased a high quality level that is long enough to go across the ways and which is sensitive enough for this kind of work, and since concrete garage floors are not as stable as they might seem, he checks the lathe from time to time.
 
Boyd Allen said:
A friend has a bench top 12x 36 that he built a base for out of square tubing, with diagonal bracing and leveling screws. It seems to be a lot more rigid than a sheet metal base would be, and has worked well for a number of years. He spent considerable effort leveling and testing his machine, and when and if I get a lathe I will undoubtedly do the same. When he first built the base, it was so rigid that his adjustments at the floor did not translate to the base of the lathe. What he ended up doing is building screw adjustments into the diagonal braces so that he could tweak the stand to level and tune his lathe for bed twist. I believe that the time that he spent doing this was a good investment toward the quality of his work. He purchased a high quality level that is long enough to go across the ways and which is sensitive enough for this kind of work, and since concrete garage floors are not as stable as they might seem, he checks the lathe from time to time.
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If I were building a base for a lathe, I might borrow an idea from the Monarch 10ee, which has only three feet. That way, leveling is not an issue. You could still do some jacking to straighten the bed, etc., but settling of the floor wouldn't affect anything.
 
I have the lathe set up in my garage on a smooth concrete surface. I got the bed perfectly level the entire length. I made sure I have tension on all for legs on each cabinet. Honestly, I don't think I need to do anything. The machine cuts like a dream, no vibration, no rocking, no chatter...seems to work fine. Then again...the only machine I ran before is a Rockwell 11", which is a bit heavier. Its a shame they aren't produced anymore.
 
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