questions about tig welded bolts

As I said, way out of my arena!

Thanks again for the info, I'll have to go over to a shop and try a Tig, sounds cool.

Regarding "my view" of the whole quenching/tempering/drawing process it's pretty well limited to carbon steels, classic spring and gun steels. Stuff like Brownell's spring stock. And some of the knife steels that can be ordered from suppliers. I learned to mess with carbon steels in gunsmithing school, heat/quench to harden and then polish and draw back to a certain color and requench to stop it. Generally the mild steels and carbon steels I work with, if left to air cool will end up dead soft.

Pretty limited worldview re steels. :)

al
 
If you have access to a Tig and don't go try it, you're missing out. That would answer a TON of your curiosities.

If you had issues with the steels softening, then they were probably intended to be water hardening. If you go look up popular steels for making knives with, one of THE steels used is A series (A2/A4/A6). Those are an awesome knife steel, and they're air hard. The trouble with them with a torch is that for knife work, the edge will overheat and loose all it's best knife properties. So, you need to be careful with how you heat it. It forges nice and makes an awesome knife that really takes an edge. It's breakable, but, you better pack a lunch to break it. If you want something that will be like razor sharp, thats a good choice. No stainless will even come close. And it's cheap (comparatively)

Most old steels were made with more or less the same process, and they changed the properties of the finished product more with the ingredients than how it was produced. Many steels today are done with processes never used before and they make for a dramatically different steel. Even with the same ingredients as before. Some of the particle steels are as tough as 4100/4300 series, even when hardened to near the same hardness as solid carbides. All while being easy to machine. The difference in them is how they freeze it. The process for hardening though is not an at-home project.
 
Maybe you can see something from these photos.
29kyrs8.jpg

That is the bolt from my Grandson's 600 Rem in 6x47Lapua in the above photo.
208webc.jpg

This is the one on my Pierce receiver. I've got some photos on photo bucket that I can't get to for some reason. Al, What I am saying is call Dan and ask him. He has done all of mine and they just work. I'm not saying to you that you need to use him, just visit with him and he will share with you what he knows.
We have some guys on the forum that have knowledge, but Dan does it many times a day and will share with you.
Butch
 
FWIW there is a large range of filler rod when talking TIG . If you mate the wrong types of metal with the wrong rod,,,,,well that's another story, for another day. Don't forget about the gas. But.... your only welding a handle to a bolt, right?
 
Had to dig up some old pics from a deployment repairing economizer tubes. Tig welding is easy once you start you will never want to stick weld again. Rule of thumb if you can see it you can weld it, if you can't see it get a mirror! When I get to work on monday I will look up the weld data sheet for the filler mat'l
DSC00641.jpg
 
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Dan Armstrong is a first reat guy

I have had Dan do bolts for me. He helped me select my new TIG welder (Miller Dynasty 200). Dan and I have spent hours on the phone. He sent me a large packet of assorted Tungstens. He discussed the use of each. Not only is he a great welder he is a great friend to have. I have threatened him that I was going to pack up and show up at his door for a couple of weeks welding lessons.
Nat Lambeth
 
Where to start?!?!

To those ladies & gents that I have provided a TIG welding service for over the years-I THANK YOU ALL.

Please don't ask who,what,when,where-it is confidential info & I'll take it to the grave.

Some that don't know me say I'm arrogant-
It's plain & simple,it's CONFIDENCE in my abilities.
20yrs as a T&D maker/precision sheet metal fabricator-
I found my niche as a certified TIG welder 30+ yrs ago.
Why TIG-80-90% of the stick/mig/gas welders can't/won't work w/ both hands & both feet simultaneously.

I'll admit,I've had 2 handles come off in the last decade-in my eyes,if you have to part the Bbl off the action to remove the bolt-I accomplished my task.
2 other handles were improperly installed a couple years ago by a motivated female trainee trying to gain points with the BOSS,for a so called TactiCool builder-long story short,I refunded full payment.

Alinwa-since you started the thread-
With a couple simple dimensions from your receiver/bolt-
I will LOCATE/TIME/TIG weld your first bolt handle FREE of charge.

The short arc processes(stick/mig etc) will pull parts while cooling.
The oxy-acetylene & TIG process will push parts while cooling.

The TIG arc is so concentrated/intense- get on it-get off it.
Tempering can be accomplished w/ practice/experience on small weldments.
The heat effected zone should be the major concern if multi passes are required.


I won't post pics as several have appeared elsewhere on the net that others have taken credit for.
Don't ask whom.

TIG welding aluminum & magnesium
Pwr source-AC,continuous Hi Freq.
Balled pure tungsten

TIG welding steel/stainless/Titanium/Inconnel/Monel etc
Pwr source-DC straight polarity(electrode negative) Hi Freq start
1%,1.5%,2% thoriated,lanthonated,rare earth tungsten ground longitudinally to avoid arc wander.

TIG welding brass/copper
Pwr source-DC reverse polarity(electrode positive) Hi Freq start
thoriated,lanthonated,pure tungsten break square end to avoid tungsten participation.

Butch-
The impossible just takes longer-
I hope you haven't started a trend-

Nat-
That SWood honey will make a puppy pull a freight train!!!
(bee by products not escorts-for clarity)

I wish Juicy Fruit Gum wrappers were still made from aluminum w/ laminated wax paper instead of mylar.
Peel the wax backing off the aluminum,shear lengthwise,fixture,install 2.5X magnifier in helmet,purge & fusion TIG weld.
That simple process made me $100's on several occasions in the early 80's.
(sometimes you have to hit the wallet to prove someone wrong)

Hi Freq your initials in your fingernails-anyone!!!!!!
DO NOT,DO NOT attempt. If you complete the circuit - in a blink your finger tip will be GONE.

I'm not a typist or texter,I'd rather roll filler wire/rod between the thumb & fingers.
 
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Alinwa-since you started the thread-
With a couple simple dimensions from your receiver/bolt-
I will LOCATE/TIME/TIG weld your first bolt handle FREE of charge
Click to expand...
Dan,

Am I correct in understanding that you do not need the action in hand for you to correctly time and weld up a bolt handle?

Justin
 
Butch Lambert said:
Justin,
If you are capable of giving him the correct dimensions that he asks for, the timing will be perfect.
Butch
Click to expand...

Butch,

Thanks. I thought one would have to send off the whole kit-n-kaboodle.

What dimensions are needed? I have some bolts that are in need of some timing help.

Justin
 
Dan I really appreciate your response......

Regarding the purported allegations of hubris? "YEAHHH BAYBIEEEEE, That's What I'M Talkin' About!!" I've generally found I'd much rawther have "that arrogant barstid" work on my projects than any other. As long as he can really do it. (Yogi Berra said it best, "It ain't braggin' if ya' really done it!!") I hire people like this for my business too. NOTHING replaces true confidence when it comes to getting the job done. You give me an "arrogant jerk" who's willling to own his work and it'll sell me every time. (Plus I'll gener'ly LIKE him :) )

I won't let you give me one for free but I may just send up 3 and ask for a wee deal :) I do have an (unnamed) custom action where the trigger timing's so far off I had to JB weld a hardened plate on the striker! I may just touch up the lugs and send the whole hairy mess...

This way we BOTH win.... You will look over the stuff and email me an estimate and we're both happy...... it's just my way.

al

BTW that thing about TIG not shrinking is fascinating. I wouldn't weld with anything but oxy/acet for 20yrs just because "I couldn't make stuff straight" with arc/MIG etc. All the tack welds in the world don't alleviate stress buildup.... You made my day with your explanation. Of course oxy/acet isn't the best thing for gun work though. I've welded/forged maybe 6 military bolt handles back in the day. WRAP with the old shreddy watersoaked asbestos cloth, CLAMP the jigged up part to the side of the water reservoir with the bolt immersed as far as I dared.... and weld like a demon hoping it doesn't heat up enough to start burbling (or geysering) before I finish a pass....... I've never had one fail (Ohhh, SIX! whoopee ding..) nor had any warpage or discoloration beyond 1/2" from the root of the bolt, but I'll never do another one.
 
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