Question Regarding K&M Neck Turning Tool

J

jjhall

New member
Just took my K&M neck turning tool cutter out to clean it and can't for the life of me determine how the cutter goes back in correctly (which way should the dang bevel face). I've looked at countless photos/videos and each seems to have a different angle (maybe my bad eyes just can't discern).

One side of the cutter has the number "50" on it. Should that number be facing toward the front (where the lettering and tightening adjustment are)?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jack
 
I hope that this helps.
 

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Last edited:
Thanks!

armabill said:
I hope that this helps.
Click to expand...

It helps a great deal, thank you! I've placed the cutter in the same manner as your picture and will get back to turning in the morning.

(That's an interesting mandrel you have. Can I assume it also trims?)
 
I trim for the 6PPC and the tool trims both the outside and inside. The inside trimming eliminates the so called "donut hole".
I started taking 220 Russian brass and trimming them down and fire forming them in my rifle. Now, they make 6PPC brass.

I wish that they made them before I started with the 220 Russian brass, it'd make it a whole lot easier on me.

I'm glad that the pics helped you. The angle of the cutter should match the shoulder angle so as to blend in with the outside of the neck trim.
 
jjhall said:
just took my k&m neck turning tool cutter out to clean it and can't for the life of me determine how the cutter goes back in correctly (which way should the dang bevel face). I've looked at countless photos/videos and each seems to have a different angle (maybe my bad eyes just can't discern).

One side of the cutter has the number "50" on it. Should that number be facing toward the front (where the lettering and tightening adjustment are)?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
jack
Click to expand...
yrs ago you could buy heads to fit in drill press for any case but you had to tiurn slow to keep mandrel from getting hoton hart turneror it would change thickness.
 
BillBrawand said:
yrs ago you could buy heads to fit in drill press for any case but you had to tiurn slow to keep mandrel from getting hoton hart turneror it would change thickness.
Click to expand...

Bill,

I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I now understand how the degree of angle applies.

Also, and coincidentally, I use a drill press (floor model) to do case prep (trimming, clean primer pockets, size primer pockets and of course neck turning). I've been placing the brass in the jaws and fastening the neck turner in a flat vice. I have to be very careful to make sure the brass fixed in the jaws and neck turner are perfectly aligned as there's no play with this method. This is especially true as I had purchased over sized expander mandrels (.270 for the 6.5x284 and .257 for the Dasher) and had a machinist turn each to EXACTLY fit the respective neck turning mandrels. While this made turning very precise, there's no room for error when using the drill press/vice combination.

I'm thinking of fabricating something that will hold the neck turning tool while still allowing for a little play so that things can align themselves. (If you have any thoughts on that I would certainly appreciate it.)


Thanks again, Bill!

Jack
 
jjhall said:
bill,

i appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I now understand how the degree of angle applies.

Also, and coincidentally, i use a drill press (floor model) to do case prep (trimming, clean primer pockets, size primer pockets and of course neck turning). I've been placing the brass in the jaws and fastening the neck turner in a flat vice. I have to be very careful to make sure the brass fixed in the jaws and neck turner are perfectly aligned as there's no play with this method. This is especially true as i had purchased over sized expander mandrels (.270 for the 6.5x284 and .257 for the dasher) and had a machinist turn each to exactly fit the respective neck turning mandrels. While this made turning very precise, there's no room for error when using the drill press/vice combination.

I'm thinking of fabricating something that will hold the neck turning tool while still allowing for a little play so that things can align themselves. (if you have any thoughts on that i would certainly appreciate it.)


thanks again, bill!

Jack
Click to expand...
with your fixture in chuck i hold manderl aline case and clap with small vice with lock on it.
 
armabill said:
I trim for the 6PPC and the tool trims both the outside and inside. The inside trimming eliminates the so called "donut hole".
I started taking 220 Russian brass and trimming them down and fire forming them in my rifle. Now, they make 6PPC brass.

I wish that they made them before I started with the 220 Russian brass, it'd make it a whole lot easier on me.

I'm glad that the pics helped you. The angle of the cutter should match the shoulder angle so as to blend in with the outside of the neck trim.
Click to expand...

Do they also offer 40 degree cutters? I've got Sinclair turners but don't see where Brownells offers a 40 degree cutter for them if you want to turn necks on AI cases. Interesting about them donut holes. I like the powdered sugar ones from the bakery, but I gave them up because I'm getting 2FF. If you're interested I have some left over post holes from a fencing project last fall.:D
 
jjhall said:
Just took my K&M neck turning tool cutter out to clean it and can't for the life of me determine how the cutter goes back in correctly (which way should the dang bevel face). I've looked at countless photos/videos and each seems to have a different angle (maybe my bad eyes just can't discern).

One side of the cutter has the number "50" on it. Should that number be facing toward the front (where the lettering and tightening adjustment are)?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jack
Click to expand...

The bevel is there so you can trim the neck closer to the shoulder.
 
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