Problem with rings.

2

219don

Guest
I have acquired a very good Leupold scope with a set of Farrell rings. I was able to loosen the front and remove it but the back is still resisting. I have one screw loosened and removed but three remain and therefore the ring is still immoveable. I've had the screws/holes covered with Liquid Wrench for a week but nothing moves yet. I'd rather not destroy the rings in the process as they are an expensive set. Hints/suggestions from anyone would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill B.
 
I have had the same problem with a set of ruger rings. I put the screw I had out back in and tightened it lightly to take some pressure off of the screw next to it and backed them both out evenly. Then the other side loosened up.
 
Be Careful adding heat or you could hurt the scope, about the only way I have been able to add heat is by heating up a piece of rod the same diameter as the screw head to a cherry red then placing it on the screw head for 20 seconds or so, this isolates the heat to the screw head only. Lightly tap the top of the screwdriver as you twist it, rapid taps are best. If that doesn't work you can use an endmill and remove the heads of the screws, once their is am longer any pressure from the top of the ring they can be griped by a pliers and turned out or you can cut a slot and use a screw driver to remove them.
 
Thanks for the reply's. I tried the first but no luck. Will most/any gunsmiths have an end mill to remove the screw head ? I'll try the local gunstore and ask.
 
Consider purchasing a "Chapman" tool set. The hex bits that they supply, used with the ratcheting box wrench in the kit really helps with screw removals. I've found that if you put some torque on the wrench handle while tapping on the rear of the bit, you can loosen some real ornery screws.
Also, a 2.5 mm hex wrench is really great when a 3/32 screw socket has been "wollered" out. The metric hex is about .005 larger than the 3/32 hex. Keep a supply of extra bits on hand.
The use of impact with torque is the same concept used with the hand held impact tools that are so helpful when working on motorcycles, etc.
Brownells now carries these tools.
 
Try heating the head of the screw with a soldering iron. As long as the scope tube stays cool enough to touch you shouldn't hurt anything. I haven't had any that I couldn't remove by heating them and turning with a close-fitting driver....provided the heads weren't already mangled and rounded.

-Dave-:)
 
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