Post 64 Winchester Action

G

gabane

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I had a 264 win mag built on a post 64 winchester magnum action. Once completed I have not been able to use standard scope bases and rings on this action. I have use 1" tube leupold scopes and 30mm swarvoski and have not been able to have enough elevation. Using Night Force 20 moa two piece worked fine but I had my heart set on a set of Tallery's two piece.

After multiple changes and having to go up from 6X48 standard to 8X40's and now I need to go up to 10X32 because I have worn out the screw holes on the action.

I ordered a set of 10 X 32's and after seeing I have decied to try and get my gunsmith to have the screw hole welded up and lets start all over. My gunsmith thinks he can align the bore such that I will be able to use standard scope bases.

Question I have do I need to have the action heat treated after the holes are welded up?
 
??????

How did you "wear out" the screw holes in a heat treated action???
Anyway, Why not just drill out the bases for the 10-32 screws, or re-locate the screw holes in the action and get a set of blank drilled bases and drill them to match.
Anything would be better than trying to weld up those tiny holes. With the generous cut aways that a Winchester Action has, I cannot amagine it being anywhere near true after being "heat treated".
There are those on this Forum who say that they weld on heat treated parts all of the time, with no ill affects. I am not one of them. It goes against every practice I have ever been associated with.......jackie.
 
I'm with Jackie, welding an action scares the poop out of me. Just exactly how is this "gunsmith" going to "align the bore"??? Is he going to use that welding torch to heat and bend the barrel??
Get back to us.
 
I do not understand how why you needed to go to 8 x 40 threads let alone how you wore out the threads. Most unusual.

I think an experienced, skilled welder could weld up the rear hole using a wire gun and I don't think you would have to worry about the effects of the heat, It is not a critical area, and it is a hunting action, I don't think accuracy would be affected where you could see it on a target...

I think the front hole on the receiver ring could also be done... but I think the rear hole on the receiver is too close to the recoil lug recess, not to affect the heat treatment. I would fill that hole with a threaded plug and re drill and tap all the holes for 6 x 48. Then using good screws, the correct length, tighten them properly and they should not "wear out".

The larger size screws really are not required to hold a heavy scope on a heavy recoiling rifle.
 
For what's it's worth. The front receiver is the only part of a Winchester action that is heat treated. probably induction hardened. Also I do mean hard. If I remember correctly it's up in the mid 40's. Also the area around the screw holes is even harder.

No disrespect to your gumsmith but you need to find someone who can work with what you have and not make matters worse.

Dave
 
The extraction cam area is also hardened. This is obvious when ever I bead blast a post-64 receiver.
In general, the rule of thumb is to always modify the cheapest piece! In this case, that means lowering the rear scope base by milling the bottom of the base while maintaining the correct contour. A skilled filer can do this by hand. It is often necessary to do some filing to level out bases if you are after a perfect mounting job.
I would like to see just what damage has been done visa vis the original scope mount holes. I wouldn't have a problem with welding on the bridge but dont like welding on the receiver ring. Better to plug the damaged holes (soldering a plug in works well) and redrill and tap.
You lack sufficient elevation because the barrel is pointing downhill in relation to the mounting surface; at least at the muzzle it is doing so. The cause could be improper set up when threading, a crooked bore, misaligned receiver threads, or a combination of the three. It could also be from alteration of the mounting surface when polishing (a common error).
The final answer? Correct the mounting holes in the least difficult manner. Modify the cheapest piece ( the scope base) to establish the proper plane in relation to the bore. Mount the scope and shoot! Like Dave said, get in touch with a gunsmith who understands the problems and corrective procedures and stop the bleeding! Regards, Bill.
 
"...In this case, that means lowering the rear scope base by milling the bottom of the base while maintaining the correct contour. A skilled filer can do this by hand. It is often necessary to do some filing to level out bases if you are after a perfect mounting job."

I may not be reading this correctly, but if he says he don't have enough elevation, doing it that way woud exagerate the problem. Should he not shim the rear or take some material off the bottom of the front base?
 
Jkob said:
"...In this case, that means lowering the rear scope base by milling the bottom of the base while maintaining the correct contour. A skilled filer can do this by hand. It is often necessary to do some filing to level out bases if you are after a perfect mounting job."

I may not be reading this correctly, but if he says he don't have enough elevation, doing it that way would exaggerate the problem. Should he not shim the rear or take some material off the bottom of the front base?
Click to expand...

You are correct ... probably just a typo on Bill's part.... he is fully aware of which base would do what...
 
Worse case scenario..

If the bases can be modified.... I agree with kolb
The action can be TIG welded, but it also could be drilled/reamed and fitted with a plug then re drilled and tapped. One could heat the action to less than 400 degrees F and freeze the plug. Then quickly press the plug into the whole with a arbor or hydrolic press. When the plug and action reach equal temperature the plug is in there for the long haul. You can do this with a piece of 4140 and reblue it and no on will be the wiser.

Another method would be to drill the hole say .250 and tap it 40tip screw the plug in and use permanent locktite on it. then machine off the threaded plug. Then re drill and tapp to the smallest size you can live with.

You could use a heli coli if you wanted to.

Rustystud
 
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