FIXED!!! But not broken after all.......
WEllllllll, I learned about Jewell triggers..............lots about them.
The offending trigger is different than the one in the photo, it has some more parts, but the principle of operation is the same. In the included parts manual there are two styles shown, BR and HVR. My pertickler malfunctioning one was the HVR and my other three are all BR's so this manual proved helpful. The photo is of a BR trigger.
Anyway, my gun stopped firing when the primer popped.........The HVR trigger stopped functioning but I could find nothing broken.
(This of course bothered me
I useta' be a gunschmidt after all.......)
Trading in parts from a BR trigger was NOT an option due to differences between the two, the sideplates are relieved differently.
The trigger "worked" outside the rifle, in my hand. It had an extra klik but it WORKED
..... part of the time. And I could pull extra hard and get it to fire.... part of the time. It took a lot of down-pressure to fire (drop the Firing Pin Block #11) it but I'm not sure exactically how much pressure it's used to...........
But it would not function in the rifle.
I filed parts to fit........
I hard-surfaced all of the wear parts........
I ran the sear surfaces up against the grinder and then re-polished them out on the belt sander and buffer..........
I peened the sideplates with a stippling hammer and shortened the thru-pins to eliminate side-play.........
I welded the grooves shut on the split pieces and rebored them....
I made all this up so's you guys that have done this before would freak out.......
Here's what REALLY happened;
After uninstalling, disassembling and reinstalling this trigger three times I finally figured out WHAT happened......how it ceased to function without actually being broken. And I figured it out BEFORE I fixed it. (this is important to me.....throwing parts at the thing ain't my way)
THIS COULD GET YOU OUT OF A JAM AT A MATCH!!! Popping a primer CAN screw up your trigger without breaking it. And you can fix it on the spot.
If you open another window with the diagrams up, or if you print off the owners manual and refer to it this will all make sense.
This being a "three-lever" trigger it has some extra parts inside. The HVR model has another extra piece, the actual sear pivots on lever 7, but it's still a three lever trigger. Find the levers marked 6 and 7. Lever 6 is a FLOATER while lever 7 is riding on a pin, this is important.
Examine Fig. 1 (cocked) and Fig. 2 (Fired) to see how they move during the firing cycle..........you'll hafta' use your imagination just a little here
..........Look closely at Fig. 2 (fired) , look at the dark brown lever #7 and note that it is riding on a pivot pin and is jammed up into the underside of lever 6 which just "floats" or slides around freely inside the case, that when the rifle fires lever 6 is actually riding on lever 7.
Note how the Firing Pin Block (#11) is rotated down a little to let the firing pin pass by overhead. Lever 6 is just hanging out in there, waiting to slip back into place for re-set..........
Now picture taking a high-speed hammer and WHACKING straight down on the top of the whole assembly pictured, WHACKING downward on part #11 the Firing Pin Block.
THIS what happens when the primer pops......the firing pin assembly comes screaming back and WHACKS the Firing Pin Block . . . . Ka-SMAKK!
Let the parts move in your mind.......
Watch as the loose Lever #6 is driven downward and forward while the pivot pin on #7 takes an enormous load...........
I found a tiny kink in spring #10, right where it would contact the support stud/pin in front of it........it's NOT SUPPOSED TO touch this spot but I'm betting it does when the primer lets go.
I found inordinately shiney wear points up under lever #6 where it'd been riding #7.
My BET was that the pressures had re-set the sear engagement down on the very bottom.........where the FLOATING Lever #6 engages the actual trigger sear...........
My BET was that the increased engagement was caused by the slamming action re-seating the engagement between #6 and #7 and perhaps even jamming the pivot pin on #7 downward a thou or two.........
My BET was that the "extra click" was the action of lever 6 sliding around in there under finger pressure...........sliding downward on the engagement surface CLEAR down on the trigger shoe itself..........
My BET was that now that I'd established a workable hypothesis I could FIX the "problem" by simply readjusting the engagement ........... by SCREWING IN #2 allowing the trigger to drop further down and un-engage the sear of the trigger itself.
I inspected all of the sears and levers closely under bright light, noting some dusting/rounding/shiney at the engagement of lever 6 and lever 7 but finding no/nada/zero for actual chipping or scuffing anywhere.
I put her all back together and pulled the trigger while screwing IN screw #2 and VOILA'!!!!!!!!
CLICK!
I completely reset/adjusted the trigger, now feeling completely comfortable as to WHY................I do NOT advocate just screwing around with adjustments after something "breaks"!!..............and found complete satisfaction.
The trigger works as new and no harm done.
The FIX for the broken trigger was simply to readjust it!
If this happens during a match I'll have no qualms about giving screw #2 just a little tweak to let the trigger shoe drop just a smidgeon more......knowing WHY this can fix the problem.
Could be useful
al
