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distantfoe
Guest
So is the general concensus to leave a bit of clearance between bedding pillars and bottum metal (roughly 50 thou) or butt them up againts the bottum metal?
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Cheechako
Guest
The idea of pillars is to keep from compressing the wood and changing the bedding. So, if you leave any clearance you'll be defeating their purpose. Best way is to do a skim bed on both ends of the pillars.
Ray
Ray
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NesikaChad
Guest
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Cheechako
Guest
Can you be LITTLE more specific? "Not always" what??
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NesikaChad
Guest
Salt shaker needed as I'm opinionated.
Pillars do one thing, they prevent guard screws from squishing stocks. Wood stocks are more prone to this than others for the most part.
A layer of bedding between the pillar and the action isn't a bad thing provided that it isn't paper thin. Paper thin bedding will likely erode and flake off in a relatively short time. I use a .05" thick layer.
The bottom of the stock is another matter. I inlet everything 1:1 and don't use any resin at all. If a guy is patient this can be done with a manual machine.
Hope this helped.
Chad
Pillars do one thing, they prevent guard screws from squishing stocks. Wood stocks are more prone to this than others for the most part.
A layer of bedding between the pillar and the action isn't a bad thing provided that it isn't paper thin. Paper thin bedding will likely erode and flake off in a relatively short time. I use a .05" thick layer.
The bottom of the stock is another matter. I inlet everything 1:1 and don't use any resin at all. If a guy is patient this can be done with a manual machine.
Hope this helped.
Chad
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Cheechako
Guest
Chad
Understood.
I also skim bed the bottom of the pillars. If you can get 100% metal to pillar contact you are a better man than I.
Ray
Understood.
I also skim bed the bottom of the pillars. If you can get 100% metal to pillar contact you are a better man than I.
Ray
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Dennis Sorensen
Guest
I like to bed the bottom metal by letting it sit in the epoxy with no screws and no stress. Often if you don't do this the bottom metal 'rocks' and bends when you tighten one screw and then the other...
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NesikaChad
Guest
I use a CNC and with a 3axis capability in cahoots with an optical comparator I can adjust a tool path in short order and not have to bother with bedding.
Just another way to peel kitty skin.
Just another way to peel kitty skin.
Butch Lambert
Active member
Al,
His $100,000 machine compensates for all of that, didn't you know?
Butch
His $100,000 machine compensates for all of that, didn't you know?
Butch
jackie schmidt
New member
Bedding
I think the general concensus is that when using long bottom metal such as found in Remington BDL's and Mausers, you need to bed that as well.
As crude and non hi-tech as it seems, bedding is the only way to insure a 100 percent non deflection fit........jackie
I think the general concensus is that when using long bottom metal such as found in Remington BDL's and Mausers, you need to bed that as well.
As crude and non hi-tech as it seems, bedding is the only way to insure a 100 percent non deflection fit........jackie
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NesikaChad
Guest
It's called metrology software. Ding out a part on the comparator and then convert to DXF, then import into software, then assign a toolpath.
This isn't a new process nor is it rocket science. It's been performed on hundreds of stocks and experience is gained from every one of them. The assurance I have that it's right is I check my work before sending it out the door. There's plenty of happy customers out there in gun land who have rifles that shoot just fine.
Hope this answered the original question.
Chad
This isn't a new process nor is it rocket science. It's been performed on hundreds of stocks and experience is gained from every one of them. The assurance I have that it's right is I check my work before sending it out the door. There's plenty of happy customers out there in gun land who have rifles that shoot just fine.
Hope this answered the original question.
Chad
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Bob Kingsbury
New member
Just wondering, Nesika Bay is hardly ever seen in the winners circle
in 100-200 BR
in 100-200 BR
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henrya
Guest
There is no one right answer to the original question.
"Stocks" are made from many different materials. The compression strength and stability of the bedding area varies with the material and structure of the stock.
More variables come into play when you add the "bottom metal" into the equation. Are we writing about large diameter thick washers made from barrel drops or cast pot metal with a thin and raggedy ring of as-cast material that makes contact in the bedding? Or something in-between?
The big idea here is to eliminate variance in the guard tension. You want to tighten the screws and have a repeatable and constant holding of the action in the stock. How you get there doesn't really matter.
"Stocks" are made from many different materials. The compression strength and stability of the bedding area varies with the material and structure of the stock.
More variables come into play when you add the "bottom metal" into the equation. Are we writing about large diameter thick washers made from barrel drops or cast pot metal with a thin and raggedy ring of as-cast material that makes contact in the bedding? Or something in-between?
The big idea here is to eliminate variance in the guard tension. You want to tighten the screws and have a repeatable and constant holding of the action in the stock. How you get there doesn't really matter.
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Cheechako
Guest
henry
I respectfully disagree. There IS one right answer and how you get there does matter. Steel pillars covered with a skim coat of a hard bedding compound. That eliminates the variances, resulting in a "repeatable and constant holding."
No more complicated than that.
JMHO
Ray
I respectfully disagree. There IS one right answer and how you get there does matter. Steel pillars covered with a skim coat of a hard bedding compound. That eliminates the variances, resulting in a "repeatable and constant holding."
No more complicated than that.
JMHO
Ray
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NesikaChad
Guest
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Cheechako
Guest
PALMA!!!! That's just some guys shooting 308 Winchester while laying on their bellies in the mud.
Sorry Chad and Asa, only kidding.
Ray
Sorry Chad and Asa, only kidding.
Ray
Through the years I've changed my pillar bedding method, now installing the pillars with the tops being .035-.050 below where they would contact the action and then bedding over them when bedding the action.
I had some misgivings initially about doing this, but the bedding jobs done this way have proven to be more durable than when I was doing them with 'hard contact' between the action and pillars.
Good shootin'. -Al
I had some misgivings initially about doing this, but the bedding jobs done this way have proven to be more durable than when I was doing them with 'hard contact' between the action and pillars.
Good shootin'. -Al
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henrya
Guest
henry
I respectfully disagree. There IS one right answer and how you get there does matter. Steel pillars covered with a skim coat of a hard bedding compound. That eliminates the variances, resulting in a "repeatable and constant holding."
No more complicated than that.
JMHO
Ray
Nahhhh....
Aluminum pillars with no bedding between them and the bottom metal.
Better, no bottom metal, just a nice escusteon that glued in the stock. Or better yet the bottom of the pillar finished up nice with a counterbore for the screw.
And there are lots of ways to get the job done. Chad's is a good way to do it. Your's is too.
Look at Chad's bottom metal. Its not some piece of Remington pot metal crap. It'll be a nice "washer" for the guard screws. And its pretty as well.