Pellets and velocity

dmw6455

Member
I have a Mac1 with Lothar Walther .177 barrel. Looking for a starting point to adjust velocity for different pellets. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. For 25 meter target.
Crossman Primier 10.5
Air Arms Diabolo Field 8.4
Air Arms Diabolo Heavy 10.3
JSB Match Diabolo Exact 8.44
JSB Diabolo Exact Heavy 10.33
JSB Monster 13.4
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Dana
 
Give me a short class on what you're asking

I confess to all that I don't know anything about airguns - anything! I had a Crossman pump pellet gun once. I thought that the more you pumped it the faster the pellet went - maybe true, maybe not.

Would you kindly offer some guidance on what you're asking here? Just a little something so I'll know what the deal is. Rest assured that I don't think I'll ever need to know but I'm curious nonetheless.
 
Depends what class you will be shooting in?

I have a Mac1 with Lothar Walther .177 barrel. Looking for a starting point to adjust velocity for different pellets. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. For 25 meter target.
Crossman Primier 10.5
Air Arms Diabolo Field 8.4
Air Arms Diabolo Heavy 10.3
JSB Match Diabolo Exact 8.44
JSB Diabolo Exact Heavy 10.33
JSB Monster 13.4
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Dana
Dana,
My LV class I shoot AA 8.4 in 4.51 from an old lot 2008. Just under 800 fps 795-797. The only problem I am running out of the good lot. If I Airgauge the newer lots and keep the small ones I do alright. But hate sorting pellets.
My HV Class likes the JSB Monsters just from the tin. Shooting at 18 FPE.

My Open Class is a .22 Kreiger barrel on a Chip Smith SUMO and shoots both AA 16's and JSB's 18.1 from the Tin at 28 FPE.

I clean my barrels between each target. It only takes me 3-4 pellets after a cleaning to start shooting the 25 scoring Bulls.

Each barrel is different so have fun finding out what you gun likes.

Paul
 
I forgot to say I will be shooting HV Class

Dana,
My LV class I shoot AA 8.4 in 4.51 from an old lot 2008. Just under 800 fps 795-797. The only problem I am running out of the good lot. If I Airgauge the newer lots and keep the small ones I do alright. But hate sorting pellets.
My HV Class likes the JSB Monsters just from the tin. Shooting at 18 FPE.

My Open Class is a .22 Kreiger barrel on a Chip Smith SUMO and shoots both AA 16's and JSB's 18.1 from the Tin at 28 FPE.

I clean my barrels between each target. It only takes me 3-4 pellets after a cleaning to start shooting the 25 scoring Bulls.

Each barrel is different so have fun finding out what you gun likes.

Paul

What is the velocity the JSB Monsters register at to get 18 fpe?
 
I confess to all that I don't know anything about airguns - anything! I had a Crossman pump pellet gun once. I thought that the more you pumped it the faster the pellet went - maybe true, maybe not.

Would you kindly offer some guidance on what you're asking here? Just a little something so I'll know what the deal is. Rest assured that I don't think I'll ever need to know but I'm curious nonetheless.

Wilbur,

Dana is asking for a starting point for his HV rifle. This class is allowed up to 20 foot pounds of energy. See Attachment http://www.wrabf.com/rules/WRABF & ERABSF RULEBOOK 2013- 2021.pdf Under Section E 8.9 (Air Rifle Power Check Procedure). These are the Rules the USARB follows for the LV and HV classes.

So by using the recommended standard JSB 10.34 grain pellet the maximum velocity would be 933.2 fps on the chronograph. That would be the max range, although that may not be the pellet of choice that he will use for optimal performance. As long as Dana knows what pellet and max velocity is used under the current World rules he can work down from there to maximize his performance without being to close to that edge.

I hope I did not confuse you more.

Regards,
Joe
 
Is this what You need

I have a Mac1 with Lothar Walther .177 barrel. Looking for a starting point to adjust velocity for different pellets. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. For 25 meter target.
Crossman Primier 10.5---926fps = 20flb
Air Arms Diabolo Field 8.4---1035fps = 20flb
Air Arms Diabolo Heavy 10.3---935fps = 20flb
JSB Match Diabolo Exact 8.44---1032fps = 20flb
JSB Diabolo Exact Heavy 10.33---934fps = 20flb
JSB Monster 13.4---820fps =20flb 778fps = 18flb
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Dana

Hope this helps.....Franky
 
Thanks, but trying to find the optimum velocity

Hope this helps.....Franky

I do know the limits for each different pellet to make HV class. Was looking more for what others have found to be a good starting point/optimum velocity for each pellet. Thanks.
 
I assume your talking about a usft mac1

The high end 20 fpe fps numbers may not be the most accurate fps ,fpe . If it is a usft you can do a lot of adjusting to dial it in if its was tuned right from Tim and has the latest updates hammer weight , transfer port adjustment screw and valve stem size all work together to fine tune your desired fpe, for the class and accuracy . I shoot with Tim and we have done a lot of fine tuning and updates to make this user friendly .

In .177 with a LW barrel setting it up for HV start with 10.3 jsb . I have only used LW barrel on a LV usft in HV we are now using lilja barrels in both .22 and .177 I lean toward .177 . Contact Tim for info on the details of how your gun is setup now, I said valve stem size is a key part of it all and he can talk you through how to determine where your starting at .
 
My Mac1 is 4-5 years old

The high end 20 fpe fps numbers may not be the most accurate fps ,fpe . If it is a usft you can do a lot of adjusting to dial it in if its was tuned right from Tim and has the latest updates hammer weight , transfer port adjustment screw and valve stem size all work together to fine tune your desired fpe, for the class and accuracy . I shoot with Tim and we have done a lot of fine tuning and updates to make this user friendly .

In .177 with a LW barrel setting it up for HV start with 10.3 jsb . I have only used LW barrel on a LV usft in HV we are now using lilja barrels in both .22 and .177 I lean toward .177 . Contact Tim for info on the details of how your gun is setup now, I said valve stem size is a key part of it all and he can talk you through how to determine where your starting at .

The weight of my Mac1 with scope is just under 15 lbs, so don't know how it could qualify for LV. I will call Tim and see what he says.
 
Dana, I'll assume you have an Unregulated USFT rifle and own a chronograph.

Pick a midweight pellet for starters, and check velocity in the middle of the sweet spot of the charge. If you are not sure where the sweet spot of the charge is, follow the procedure below:

1. Charge the gun to just over 1500psi and dryfire it once.
2. Now chronograph three shots and write the velocities down.
3. Dryfire ten times, and chrono the next three shots and write them down, along with the remaining gage pressure.
4. Again dryfire ten times and chrono three more and record velocity and remaining pressure.
5. Repeat the dryfire and crono operation UNTIL you reach the lowest velocity you plan to consider using.

Examine the results you have, looking for the highest velocity range pressure, which will be the middle of your "sweet spot". Check the energy level of those highest velocity shots, and, once recharging to the exact pressure you saw the peak and (go a little bit over and dryfire down to it), adjust via hammer spring preload if too high or low for HV class, ideally to around 19fpe for starters.

To find energy of a certain pellet at a certain velocity, multiply the pellet weight in grains times the velocity squared, then divide by 450,240 to arrive at the energy in foot pounds.

Once you know your peak velocity is adjusted so its near enough, but not over the max energy spec, shoot from the peak level over the chrono while counting shots until the average of three shots is unacceptably low, say 15fps slower than the peak and look at the precise pressure on the gage ... this is about where you need to stop and recharge. Generally, when recharging, you should go around 200psi higher than were the midpoint was or a bit less even, and recheck the velocity, with a goal of STARTING the charge around 15fps of less lower, then slowly climbing to the max velocity and then slowly dropping to the min recharge level. COUNT the shots for beginning to end, so you know how many sighters you can take and still have enough air for 25 good record shots.

NOW, and only now, should then test every type of .177 pellets to see which give the very best accuracy (ideally both indoors and outdoors). Shoot all the pellet types you have at or near that peak pressure level to see which are most promising accuracy wise.
 
Will give it a go

Pick a midweight pellet for starters, and check velocity in the middle of the sweet spot of the charge. If you are not sure where the sweet spot of the charge is, follow the procedure below:

1. Charge the gun to just over 1500psi and dryfire it once.
2. Now chronograph three shots and write the velocities down.
3. Dryfire ten times, and chrono the next three shots and write them down, along with the remaining gage pressure.
4. Again dryfire ten times and chrono three more and record velocity and remaining pressure.
5. Repeat the dryfire and crono operation UNTIL you reach the lowest velocity you plan to consider using.

Examine the results you have, looking for the highest velocity range pressure, which will be the middle of your "sweet spot". Check the energy level of those highest velocity shots, and, once recharging to the exact pressure you saw the peak and (go a little bit over and dryfire down to it), adjust via hammer spring preload if too high or low for HV class, ideally to around 19fpe for starters.

To find energy of a certain pellet at a certain velocity, multiply the pellet weight in grains times the velocity squared, then divide by 450,240 to arrive at the energy in foot pounds.

Once you know your peak velocity is adjusted so its near enough, but not over the max energy spec, shoot from the peak level over the chrono while counting shots until the average of three shots is unacceptably low, say 15fps slower than the peak and look at the precise pressure on the gage ... this is about where you need to stop and recharge. Generally, when recharging, you should go around 200psi higher than were the midpoint was or a bit less even, and recheck the velocity, with a goal of STARTING the charge around 15fps of less lower, then slowly climbing to the max velocity and then slowly dropping to the min recharge level. COUNT the shots for beginning to end, so you know how many sighters you can take and still have enough air for 25 good record shots.

NOW, and only now, should then test every type of .177 pellets to see which give the very best accuracy (ideally both indoors and outdoors). Shoot all the pellet types you have at or near that peak pressure level to see which are most promising accuracy wise.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Will need to read it a few times to really understand.
 
The gun is a USFT rifle

Not a MacI. Mac1 is the maker/retailer, but the model is the USFT, or USFT Hunter. To further distinguish, standard ones are unregulated, and some have been refitted with regulated paintball tanks.

It makes a difference with respect to discussions to know if your gun has the paintball bottle. And a difference to me that it be called a USFT.
 
Mac1 USFT Hunter

Not a MacI. Mac1 is the maker/retailer, but the model is the USFT, or USFT Hunter. To further distinguish, standard ones are unregulated, and some have been refitted with regulated paintball tanks.

It makes a difference with respect to discussions to know if your gun has the paintball bottle. And a difference to me that it be called a USFT.

Sorry about the confusion. It is the USFT Hunter with unregulated tank.
 

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One more question and I'm good

Is the air driving the pellet adjustable? If it is, I'm OK - if it's not, then I need to read closer.

Forgot to say thanks....

Thanks Y'all.
 
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Yes

Is the air driving the pellet adjustable? If it is, I'm OK - if it's not, then I need to read closer.

Forgot to say thanks....

Thanks Y'all.

Mine is one of the early Hunter models that you can only adust air by adjusting the tension of the hammer spring. You also fill the tank to a certain pressure and find the optimum couple hundred pound range that a given pellet shoots best at.
 
I think it's a little more than I know...but I'm good enough with what I'm thinking. I'll get out of the way now!

Thanks a million!
 
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