one or two piece bases

M

macv

Guest
Hello, I am getting ready to get some bases for my single shot Sav. 6br. and was wondering if the one piece base, ( thinking of getting the Farrell ) would be a little acward in the loading process of this little cartridge. I have never used a one piece base and trying to get some input from the shooters who have. What are the pros and the cons of it.
 
One of the big Pro's would be no misalignment issues between front and rear bases, one of the big Cons would be if the base gets in the way as you suggested.
 
Had a one piece base...

on a 600 Rem Mohawk and had no loading problems at all. Completely satisfied with it.

good luck...virg
 
Bases

I've always assumed that 1 pc. bases added some measure of strength to the receiver. They may also make it easier to align the rings.
 
I had the same concerns, but no problems. I think the benefits of the one piece base out weigh any advantage of the 2 piece.
 
Farrell

I have Farrell one piece mount and rings on my Rem 700 6mmBR. No problems at all. Farrell is very strong, but slightly heavier than Kelby aluminum.
 
glad that someone

had the same idea as I did for it helps me to make a decision. I guess if I was not happy with the one piece base I could always dump it. Will give the edge to the Farrell one piece after all. Thank you everyone for the comments. Happy holiday's to all.
 
With a factory receiver, it is poor policy to assume that a one piece base will eliminate any alignment problems with the rings. In fact the receiver, which is the bigger chunk of steel will pull a one piece rail out of true if the misalignment of the mounting holes in the receiver are far enough off. I've got one 700 that the holes were so far off that a one piece mount couldn't be installed, the front and rear mounting holes in the receiver were that far off.

If weight is an issue, the two piece bases are the way to go.

Any time you are mounting a scope on a "factory" receiver, it's cheap insurance to hit the rings with a lapping bar to see if everything really does line up, expecially given the cost of a quality scope.

And over the last 45 years, I've had two and only two receivers (both aftermarket) that were completely true, one with a milled in scope rail, one that required a scope mount to be installed. No factory receiver yet has been 100%. Pretty close once or twice but never 100%.

Any "expert" who tells you anything different isn't much of an expert.
 
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I suspect that there might be a lower potential for manufactured misalignment with the cylindrical Savage action than on Remingtons.
 
OK, so that being

said, what is going to be the best way to see if the holes are all lined up. I could see useing a straight edge to see if all the holes line up in a straight line, but if that line goes a little left of center or a little right, im still off. How can one check this out before investing in a one piece base. The point that you brought up is a very good one. Now my direction is starting to change. Maybe two piece bases like the Millett or Leupold that are adjustable could be a better way to go. Right now finding out how to test for straightness of the action would be my first concern. If I could figure that out and know for sure, then I can still go with the one piece base. Some very good comments here. Thank you guys.
 
You want to really mount that scope properly????


IMO you'll be best satisfied with a one-piece base. Let me be the first to suggest a tapered one, like 20moa. With this base you'll find your scope to be working closer to it's optical center at long range. Fuh'GEDDABOUT issues with ejection or reaching into the port, AIN'T none.

NOW...... as per mounting it.

You should degrease the receiver and base and GLUE AND SCREW it. To do this you first check to see it fits, all the aforementioned misalignments and stuff.....If it fits (it will :rolleyes:) then you lightly screw it down and run masking tape around it, "mask" it cuz glue's gonna' squeeze out.

Degrease the pieces.

put an epoxy like Acra-glas or JB Weld on the pieces.

put release agent (grease, any sort) on the screws and LIGHTLY tighten 'er down.

Let it all set up, run the screws in a little tighter, just firm with your fingers....no need for torque specs.

Your base is now "permanently" mounted and will add strength to the system. If you ever need to remove it you can apply heat with an iron and it'll pop right off.


Now you're ready for step two, alignment.

First you need one of these-- http://www.kokopelliproducts.com/scopeb.html

YOU NEED THESE!! There's nothing else on the planet that compares. This is IT, the final word in alignment. John holds the patent on the design. You can make 'em or buy 'em but YOU NEED THESE to properly mount a scope.

Once you've checked alignment then you can fix it by bedding, lapping or reaming the rings. If you get wicked lucky and the rings DO line up then you're done :) worst case you'll now know what to do to fix it.

nuff said


al
 
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Another Opinion

When you buy the Farrell base it comes with the instructions on how to properly bed it and it sounds just like what Al said.
On the scope I wouldn't bother buying all that fancy stuff just bed it and forget it.
Lynn
 
Lynn said:
When you buy the Farrell base it comes with the instructions on how to properly bed it and it sounds just like what Al said.
On the scope I wouldn't bother buying all that fancy stuff just bed it and forget it.
Lynn
Click to expand...

In a way I agree, EXCEPT that most scope rings are too tight to "just bed" they need to be relieved first as just putting them on they'll bend the scope. Many scope rings need to be sanded out for some tolerance, then bedded. Remember when bedding them that you must also shorten the ends of the rings, like shortening rod or main bearing caps, and stick some tape in the gap while bedding so that when you take it all apart there will be some crimping effect.

al
 
Alinwa

Al
I use an old shotgun barrel wrapped with DA sanding discs.They have a sticky backing on them and the 80 grit seems to work the best.Once everything is silver in color I pile on the J-B Weld and just set the scope in place.The next day you can pop it out with your hand and clean everything up with an X-Acto knife.
I don't cut anything on the rings.Just put the top ring on and tighten it up.
On connecting rods they grind the flats to create a smaller hole and then hone them back out so they are round.On a scope we sand out the bottom of the ring to create a bed for the epoxy so we need more clearance.The tops don't get sanded and don't need any epoxy the way I do it.
Lynn
 
Lynn said:
Al
I use an old shotgun barrel wrapped with DA sanding discs.They have a sticky backing on them and the 80 grit seems to work the best.Once everything is silver in color I pile on the J-B Weld and just set the scope in place.The next day you can pop it out with your hand and clean everything up with an X-Acto knife.
I don't cut anything on the rings.Just put the top ring on and tighten it up.
On connecting rods they grind the flats to create a smaller hole and then hone them back out so they are round.On a scope we sand out the bottom of the ring to create a bed for the epoxy so we need more clearance.The tops don't get sanded and don't need any epoxy the way I do it.
Lynn
Click to expand...


Ahhhh, so you just bed the BOTTOM.

Not a bad idea'r! I'm gonna' try this one.

al
 
Of course....

alinwa said:
Ahhhh, so you just bed the BOTTOM.

Not a bad idea'r! I'm gonna' try this one.

al
Click to expand...

I avoid all this by going to my local sporting goods store and purchasing a set of Burris Signature "Z" ring with the plastic inserts and never worry about "scope alignment" again.:rolleyes:
 
Well, if the receiver holes are really that far off it's either two piece mounts (and yes, there are 20 minute two peice mounts), or find a quality smith with a good Bridgeport mill to line it up by opening the holes to 8-32 (making for much for stronger screws by the way).

Bedding works well for a one piece mount if the holes at least line up but the vertical dimensions of the receiver are a bit off.

I don't bed the scope in the rings generally, but have felt the need to do so a few times. let's just say the scope tubes in those cases were not the advertised diameters.

I do glue two piece mounts using high shear strength gold club shaft epoxy which also has a reasonable melting point (below that of the glue used to hold together the carbon fiber shafts) so a simple heat gun will do the trick if the rings ever have to be removed without the risk of affecting the receiver.

And yes the Burris rings will work on a light recoil rifle, not so much on a 7 lb .300 RUM. Of course that same rifle ate two less durable scopes too.

Otherwise as previously stated, the lapping bar tells me everything I need to know about alignment, either GTG or needs work.
 
Al -Lynn - & everybody-

After you lap your rings so that your bore sight and cross-hairs on a optically centered scope coincide at 100 yds. the best way to bed is use a 1" dia. rod. [if 1" dia. scope] Use release agent on the rod. I usually only bed the bottom half of the rings. Do Not over tighten the top halves!! I use Devcon part # S6 available @ Ace Hdwr. If your rings are beyond just lapping, cut shim stock. About .001" is close to 1" @ a 100 yds. A beer can is about .0035". The shim may need to be moore on one side than the other, never above the bottom half. Place the scope in the bottom halves. Adjust shims as necessary. Now bed the rod in the epoxy on the bottom halves. Do Not over tighten the top halves!! Use Q-tips to clean up the epoxy ooze. After the epoxy has set up, remove the top halves and "break the sharp edges" on the rings. Be sure to remove any epoxy at the joint between the two halves. Oh-ooh, I forgot to tell you, clean/degrease the bottom halves for epoxy adhesion.
DO USE release agent on the top halves and any where you don't want epoxy to stick, especially the screws!! I also use masking tape on the bottom rings and bases while lapping, makes it a lot easier to clean up.
When done, before placing the scope in the rings, use a felt tip marker to paint the inside of the rings, top and bottom. This isn't for looks, it's to prevent the scope from moving in the rings, even with the BIG boomers.
I know I probably left something out. Yeah, dry fit every thing before you start mixing epoxy!
This may take a little effort, but it's the only way I know to align the scope with the bore and not create stress on the action, assuming the scope is straight?

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!

Steve Moore
 
Steve Moore

Steve
I don't use a bar because I have no way of knowing if it matches up to my scope.Most scopes aren't very straight.
I just drop the scope in the J-B Weld and walk away.It settles on its own and has 100% contact.
Lynn
 
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