New to Borescoping

[JRB]

I have recently got my hawkeye scope, now I am sorry for what I see
I have a few questions about things
My barrel from new, lilja Stainless, 220 swift imp. fired 500 rounds, throat cracking and erosion aparent.
About 3 inches in the bore I see what looks like rust spots along the edge of the land and then up and over the rifling and a few more spots in the next land. area 1/4 inch long and 1/8 wide.
If this was a CM barrel I would ignore this as rust, and keep shooting
I can not tell if this is indents or lumps, I have tried to clean it with iosso and also sweets, but am still baffled what I have found.

Any help is appreciated
JRB

 

[Centerfire]

Jrb

Could you give a little more information. What did the patches show?
Which did you use first losso or the sweets? If your patches show no color have you tried something like Butches to see if you do get color? Might have to soak a little longer.
Depending on the size of the specific area in question try putting a patch soaked with Butches on the spot for a few days if needed changing it daily to see if the spot will lift.
If it comes out keep the area clean in the future.
Good luck
Centerfire

 

[R.G. Robinett]

I have recently got my hawkeye scope, now I am sorry for what I see
I have a few questions about things
My barrel from new, lilja Stainless, 220 swift imp. fired 500 rounds, throat cracking and erosion aparent.
About 3 inches in the bore I see what looks like rust spots along the edge of the land and then up and over the rifling and a few more spots in the next land. area 1/4 inch long and 1/8 wide.
If this was a CM barrel I would ignore this as rust, and keep shooting
I can not tell if this is indents or lumps, I have tried to clean it with iosso and also sweets, but am still baffled what I have found.

Any help is appreciated
JRB

It may be carbon - in my .220 Ack. Swift barrels, I get this very quickly - albeit, primarily in the throat. Carbon can be very difficult to remove: leaving the plugged barrel filled, over-night, with SLIP 2000 carbon killer has proven the most convenient/fastest at removing carbon build-up. This product does not work well when applied using patches - IMMERSION is required; the Slip 2000 may be used repeatedly. RG

 

[skeetlee]

does the barrel still shoot ok? I have a hawkeye on my wish list, but i have a few other higher priority items to tend with first. Hope you get your questions answered and your troubles taken care of. Good luck!! Lee

 

[Andy Cross]

My swift story

I have recently got my hawkeye scope, now I am sorry for what I see
I have a few questions about things
My barrel from new, lilja Stainless, 220 swift imp. fired 500 rounds, throat cracking and erosion aparent.
About 3 inches in the bore I see what looks like rust spots along the edge of the land and then up and over the rifling and a few more spots in the next land. area 1/4 inch long and 1/8 wide.
If this was a CM barrel I would ignore this as rust, and keep shooting
I can not tell if this is indents or lumps, I have tried to clean it with iosso and also sweets, but am still baffled what I have found.

Any help is appreciated
JRB

I burned out 3 swift barrels at 1000 rounds each. At 500 rounds accuracy began suffering. I gave up on the 22 hot shots as a result. The damage you mentioned at 500 rounds is consistent with what I saw. The rust red spots could be alpha sulphur depending on the powder used. That stuff will eat into your barrel if not removed. I use CTC or an equivalent solvent to remove carbon and sulphur which only takes a couple of patches and a few minutes.
Andy.

 

[JRB]

Could you give a little more information. What did the patches show?
Which did you use first losso or the sweets? If your patches show no color have you tried something like Butches to see if you do get color? Might have to soak a little longer.
Depending on the size of the specific area in question try putting a patch soaked with Butches on the spot for a few days if needed changing it daily to see if the spot will lift.
If it comes out keep the area clean in the future.
Good luck
Centerfire

Centerfire, thanks for the advise, sweets first than iosso, I have given it a couple more treatments with sweets, I have rubbed with JB paste and iosso, It shows no color, the bore is spotless apart from this.
then I will give it a soak as you suggest
at least if it shows colour as you say it will give a sign
thanks
JRB

 

[JRB]

does the barrel still shoot ok? I have a hawkeye on my wish list, but i have a few other higher priority items to tend with first. Hope you get your questions answered and your troubles taken care of. Good luck!! Lee

Lee, the barrel is still good for what I use it for, it is my second barrel, and I have never had much better than .3" with 75 vlds in either barrel. not sure if that's the cartridge of my ability.
Good shootin'
JRB

 

[JRB]

I burned out 3 swift barrels at 1000 rounds each. At 500 rounds accuracy began suffering. I gave up on the 22 hot shots as a result. The damage you mentioned at 500 rounds is consistent with what I saw. The rust red spots could be alpha sulphur depending on the powder used. That stuff will eat into your barrel if not removed. I use CTC or an equivalent solvent to remove carbon and sulphur which only takes a couple of patches and a few minutes.
Andy.

Andy
Thanks for your reply,
I am using reloader 25 and 75 vlds to 3700fps, barrel 28 inches long, always clean after 12 or so shots.
The heat cracking is the first 1/4 inch, once you go in 3/4 all starts to look good
what will happen in the next 2-300 if I keep shooting as is?

Did you ever jump your barrels on the swift

any thoughts
JRB

 

[Andy Cross]

It's a bit like cancer

Andy
Thanks for your reply,
I am using reloader 25 and 75 vlds to 3700fps, barrel 28 inches long, always clean after 12 or so shots.
The heat cracking is the first 1/4 inch, once you go in 3/4 all starts to look good
what will happen in the next 2-300 if I keep shooting as is?

Did you ever jump your barrels on the swift

any thoughts
JRB

I had gator skin appearing after 300 rounds. By 600 it had crept about half an inch into the barrel. It just had a sand blasted appearance for another inch. But it grew rapidly like cancer and by the time I hit 1000 rounds it was shooting lousy. All three barrels did the same thing. Two shillens and a madco. It shot best with the bullets just making land contact but by 500 rounds I was jumping the bullets whether I wanted to or not because the lands had burned away to such an extent I didn't have enough bullet left in the case for use in the field or I had to develop a new load with heavier ie longer bullets all of which would have trashed the barrel further. I gave up on 22 hot shots. Fun to shoot but not worth the agro.
Andy.

 

[B.Johnson]

Is there any chemical that will remove carbon? I worked part time for many years' as a outboard mechanic. We once soaked a set of pistons' with stuck rings' in a pan of OMC engine tuner to soften the carbon. The next morning we found it had no effect at all, not even a little. I also made a unit like the old Outers electric unit. This did work on copper, and carbon. The cleaner was 25% white vinegar, 25%, 3% ammonia, and 50% distilled water. You had to clean, and oil the barrel at once when you used this solution.

 

[abintx]

Is there any chemical that will remove carbon? I worked part time for many years' as a outboard mechanic. We once soaked a set of pistons' with stuck rings' in a pan of OMC engine tuner to soften the carbon. The next morning we found it had no effect at all, not even a little. I also made a unit like the old Outers electric unit. This did work on copper, and carbon. The cleaner was 25% white vinegar, 25%, 3% ammonia, and 50% distilled water. You had to clean, and oil the barrel at once when you used this solution.

J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound ... I use it after every yardage or every 45 to 50 rounds. 3 to 5 tight fitting patches with JB will get the powder fouling / carbon out. I do a full cleaning before I use JB and also after I use JB, to make certain I've got all the JB out of the barrel.

Watch this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v7spb32Huc

No need for a special applicator on the tip of the cleaning rod as seen in the video.

Spread it evenly in the center of a patch as if you were applying a very thin layer of peanut butter to a piece of bread. It doesn't take much to do the job. It thins out in its container on hot days and gets thicker on cool days but it works just fine regardless of consistency.

Work it back and forth several times throughout sections of the entire barrel paying more attention to the area from the end of the chamber to 4" to 6" in front of it.

 

[Andy Cross]

True solvents

Is there any chemical that will remove carbon? I worked part time for many years' as a outboard mechanic. We once soaked a set of pistons' with stuck rings' in a pan of OMC engine tuner to soften the carbon. The next morning we found it had no effect at all, not even a little. I also made a unit like the old Outers electric unit. This did work on copper, and carbon. The cleaner was 25% white vinegar, 25%, 3% ammonia, and 50% distilled water. You had to clean, and oil the barrel at once when you used this solution.

There are several compounds that will lower the surface tension of carbon that has accumulated on surfaces. That's all most bore solvents do as they are not true solvents. It can then be scrubbed off with brushes and patches etc.Compounds like CTC and other equivalents will actually dissolve carbon and I use them when necessary. Especially removing the carbon ring that builds up in the throat You may find you need a licence to buy them in some countries. But they work very well.
Andy.