New shooter needs advice

2rott said:
2oz trigger. Sounds kind of scary.
Click to expand...

When you are talking about a Rem 700 in .223 for a beginning shooter I would not think about a 2 oz. trigger for a while. For one thing if you were to shoot it in a match somewhere it would most likely be in Factory class, and aftermarket triggers are generally not allowed.
 
what kind of rules does you club have for thier competition....

my club has 4 center fire classes..three are STOCK rifles ( you can bed, and play with the stock trigger, but no after market parts allowed) and only the fourth is what we would call br....


so check on the rules before you go too far...

mike in co
 
2rott,

I bought the same rifle as you did and from the same store. Here is what I recommend to start with.

The bases/screws you got with the rifle will be fine. One note of caution with these, make sure you have the the bases on correctly. You will see that one is thicker than the other, that is the rear base. Also, the bases have a make of some type (I don't remember if it wa a number or what) but make sure they are both on the same side. If you get one of the bases backwards, you will not be able to sight it in, you'll run out of horizontal adjustment. Next, get the burris signiture rings with inserts as suggested. When you take these out of the package, use rubbing alcohol and clean the inserts and inside of the rings where the inserts lay. They come with oil on them and if you do not clean it off, there is a chance that the scope will slip in the rings while shooting. Use blue lock-tite on bases but it's not necessary on these ring screws. While mounting the scope in the rings, make sure the insert openings line up with the ring openings (don't have to exact but close), then as you tighten them (very slowly), wiggle the scope lightly and this will allow the inserts to self center the scope.

The brass you picked up at the range is not ideal but will work for initial rifle evaluation and what I mean here is I hope you have a lot more success with your rifle than mine or others I have seen. After 450 + rnds of load development, 1 3/8" 3 shot groups were the best it would do and I have a proven 36T weaver on it and a jewell trigger in it. Quite the bummer. That is why I would use the pick up brass, get some 52gr Sierra HPBT Match and a pound of VV N135 powder, Fed 205M or Winchester small rifle primers and a set of Forrester BR dies (for simplicity). If the gun will not group less than a inch with these components and setup, I wouldn't waste much more time on it. When you get everything together, get on here and ask about tools you need and how to set them up (like the dies).

A very good option also is to find a local BR shooter that has a lot of experience and have him show you the ropes of load development, shooting, etc.

Hovis
 
i've done good with imr8208 and oem 8202 powder in 223....if you cannot fine the others

mike in co
 
HovisKM said:
2rott
I hope you have a lot more success with your rifle than mine or others I have seen. After 450 + rnds of load development, 1 3/8" 3 shot groups were the best it would do and I have a proven 36T weaver on it and a jewell trigger in it. Quite the bummer. Hovis
Click to expand...

I was originally going to buy a low end Savage, Howa or Vanguard to get my feet wet. I also plan to get the Weaver T36 hoping to keep the total cost under $1000 or $1100 but came across the sale on the REM. 700 ADL Varmint , & thought it was as good a starter as the others, easy to upgrade when the time came. I wasn't expecting to compete with the top shooters or even the middle, but a few new shooters with Savage .223's. Not sure what models, but not synthetic stocks. I may have made a mistake. If several have tried & failed to get this rifle to shoot accurately, I don,t want to waste a lot of time or get discouraged. I could always sell it unfired with the no name scope & recoup most of my money. I never even considered a used rifle. That may not be in my price range either. What do you guys think. I'm not in a hurry.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
In my experience, very few factory rifles will perform given the bedding they are born with. I can't recall the last time I shot
a factory gun without first making some corrections. None of the companies and that encludes savage with the so-called
pillar bedding can regularly pass basic bedding tests. Not addressing this is a big waste of time and components, and the targets
will show it every day.
 
HovisKM said:
2rott,

I bought the same rifle as you did and from the same store. Here is what I recommend to start with.

The bases/screws you got with the rifle will be fine. One note of caution with these, make sure you have the the bases on correctly. You will see that one is thicker than the other, that is the rear base. Also, the bases have a make of some type (I don't remember if it wa a number or what) but make sure they are both on the same side. If you get one of the bases backwards, you will not be able to sight it in, you'll run out of horizontal adjustment. Next, get the burris signiture rings with inserts as suggested. When you take these out of the package, use rubbing alcohol and clean the inserts and inside of the rings where the inserts lay. They come with oil on them and if you do not clean it off, there is a chance that the scope will slip in the rings while shooting. Use blue lock-tite on bases but it's not necessary on these ring screws. While mounting the scope in the rings, make sure the insert openings line up with the ring openings (don't have to exact but close), then as you tighten them (very slowly), wiggle the scope lightly and this will allow the inserts to self center the scope.

The brass you picked up at the range is not ideal but will work for initial rifle evaluation and what I mean here is I hope you have a lot more success with your rifle than mine or others I have seen. After 450 + rnds of load development, 1 3/8" 3 shot groups were the best it would do and I have a proven 36T weaver on it and a jewell trigger in it. Quite the bummer. That is why I would use the pick up brass, get some 52gr Sierra HPBT Match and a pound of VV N135 powder, Fed 205M or Winchester small rifle primers and a set of Forrester BR dies (for simplicity). If the gun will not group less than a inch with these components and setup, I wouldn't waste much more time on it. When you get everything together, get on here and ask about tools you need and how to set them up (like the dies).

A very good option also is to find a local BR shooter that has a lot of experience and have him show you the ropes of load development, shooting, etc.

Hovis
Click to expand...


And.....


In my experience, very few factory rifles will perform given the bedding they are born with. I can't recall the last time I shot
a factory gun without first making some corrections. None of the companies and that encludes savage with the so-called
pillar bedding can regularly pass basic bedding tests. Not addressing this is a big waste of time and components, and the targets
will show it every day. Bob
Click to expand...


Read several times... GOOD info... Hope this works for ya and who knows 2rott.... Extreme Accuracy bug may just BITE..!

cale
 
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