New bullet making Thread
- Thread starter GerryM
- Start date
Hi Gerry,
Got some cores Charlie and Cheryl Hood.
Got some jackets. J4
Waiting on Geo. U. for dies and press. 6mm 68 gn.
Met George at the Super Shoot. Real nice guy.
It's good to restart the New BR Bullet Making thread. Been waiting a while....
Thinking about making some .308 112 gn. For Score shooting....
Got some cores Charlie and Cheryl Hood.
Got some jackets. J4
Waiting on Geo. U. for dies and press. 6mm 68 gn.
Met George at the Super Shoot. Real nice guy.
It's good to restart the New BR Bullet Making thread. Been waiting a while....
Thinking about making some .308 112 gn. For Score shooting....
Hi Joel A set of B&A steel dies. I started with a set of those. I still have them.
My best bullets in 22 for the 222 were made on J4 jackets and B&A dies. I used the .705 jacket They weighed 52 gr and were flat base. They were a 6 ogive and worked pretty well . You need the 187 or 188 wire for those.
My best bullets in 22 for the 222 were made on J4 jackets and B&A dies. I used the .705 jacket They weighed 52 gr and were flat base. They were a 6 ogive and worked pretty well . You need the 187 or 188 wire for those.
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Hi Tim I hope the guys jump back in.
So you bought cores from charlie hood for your bullets. I have heard some really good things on his cores.
I did talk to george on the phone for a while. Nice guy to talk to. He uses a different process to make his dies.
george also said he made the B&A style dies from carbide. We talked a lot about presses on the last post.
The 30 cal bullets could use a pretty stout press.
Are you going withh the B&A style dies?
So you bought cores from charlie hood for your bullets. I have heard some really good things on his cores.
I did talk to george on the phone for a while. Nice guy to talk to. He uses a different process to make his dies.
george also said he made the B&A style dies from carbide. We talked a lot about presses on the last post.
The 30 cal bullets could use a pretty stout press.
Are you going withh the B&A style dies?
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Ok i guess i'll start Here is What i found That works for me.
Uniform core weight= uniform core seating =uniform points.
I'm using different makers dies. I started with B&A style dies years ago. I like the design . I have 3 presses set up and a core cutter that is a herters . It feeds from the top. I have read Ray Beihler and Walt Astles book several times about bullet making , I believe that most of the information in the book is still valid today.
Ted Smith also wrote a book about Bullet die making. I think corbon sell it under his name. its not really all that long as i remember. More like pamphlet with several pages.
Uniform core weight= uniform core seating =uniform points.
I'm using different makers dies. I started with B&A style dies years ago. I like the design . I have 3 presses set up and a core cutter that is a herters . It feeds from the top. I have read Ray Beihler and Walt Astles book several times about bullet making , I believe that most of the information in the book is still valid today.
Ted Smith also wrote a book about Bullet die making. I think corbon sell it under his name. its not really all that long as i remember. More like pamphlet with several pages.
WILBUR Great thread. I do it atad different but everyone has their own twist on bullet making.
New die makers not on the thread are David Detsch and George Ulrich. Davids dad Clarence was mentioned.
David worked in the shop with his dad and is the second generation tool and die maker.
I also have a therory as to core making. I don't lube my lead to squirt it. I just moisten it with a tad of water.
Not everyone is going to agree but it's simple. If you don't put any lube on the core you don't have to take anything off the core I also don't use harsh chemicals Simple dishwashing soap and really hot water is more then enough to clean jackets. As to etching cores I don't feel it's necessary , others do. If i wanted etched cores the last post mentioned plain white vinegar. Set up hasent really been talked about yet.
New die makers not on the thread are David Detsch and George Ulrich. Davids dad Clarence was mentioned.
David worked in the shop with his dad and is the second generation tool and die maker.
I also have a therory as to core making. I don't lube my lead to squirt it. I just moisten it with a tad of water.
Not everyone is going to agree but it's simple. If you don't put any lube on the core you don't have to take anything off the core I also don't use harsh chemicals Simple dishwashing soap and really hot water is more then enough to clean jackets. As to etching cores I don't feel it's necessary , others do. If i wanted etched cores the last post mentioned plain white vinegar. Set up hasent really been talked about yet.
Step one core making. I buy my wire from rochester lead works. For the 6mm bullets i use the .195 dia wire , for the 22 bullets i use the .188 wire and for the 30 cal bullets i use the .250 wire
The wire comes on spools of 25 lbs. You have to unwind it .
I cut them in 30 inch {aprox} lengths. I roll them on the clean table with a clean straight piece of 1x4 hardwood to get the kinks out. Then I wipe them off with a clean rag . now they are ready for cutting.
The wire comes on spools of 25 lbs. You have to unwind it .
I cut them in 30 inch {aprox} lengths. I roll them on the clean table with a clean straight piece of 1x4 hardwood to get the kinks out. Then I wipe them off with a clean rag . now they are ready for cutting.
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Stephen Perry
New member
Gerry
I referred you bullet makers to the BR FAQ's page several times. The bullet FAQ's page has been on BRC for several years.
Stephen Perry
Angeles BR
I referred you bullet makers to the BR FAQ's page several times. The bullet FAQ's page has been on BRC for several years.
Stephen Perry
Angeles BR
Thanks Gerry for starting this thread again. I have parts of the other thread, printed. I am thinking about using Charlie Hoods core to start. I spoke to him a little while back and all I can say is he is Super to deal with.. Will post more later on..thanks again to you and everyone for the info..
GOD BLESS
GOD BLESS
Joe sounds like a good start . Hs a good guy and the prices are pretty good.
A lot of people prefer to buy them. It takes the hassle out of making your own.
Still i like to make my own for one reason Weight control. I keep my cores to 1/10th of a grain meaning 67.9 to 68 grs on the nose . the same with the other bullets. Some say weight doesn't mean that much for short range,
I have my own aproach on this.
A lot of people prefer to buy them. It takes the hassle out of making your own.
Still i like to make my own for one reason Weight control. I keep my cores to 1/10th of a grain meaning 67.9 to 68 grs on the nose . the same with the other bullets. Some say weight doesn't mean that much for short range,
I have my own aproach on this.
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I have a vertical core cutter that has a small box to catch the cores in after they are cut. there is a micrometer
Stop to adjust for weight. I cut my cores about.8/10 to 1 full grain above finished weight.
Heres how i figure my weight IE 68 gr bullet 825 J4 jacket This lot each jacket weighs 23.1 grs. so i subtract that from my finished weight. 68Gr - 23.1 grs = 44.9 grs this is the core weight i'm shooting for add about 1 gr for squiring
So raw slugs cut should weigh 45.9 grs. aprox. I then set up my core squirt to start squiring a tad off until i reach my weight screwing the die down a tad at a Time until i hit my weight. I then place it into a jacket and weigh to check
Finished weight. when i'm there at the proper setting it's just repeating the process until i have enough to run.
I use the old lids from the jacket buckets for trays. they hold about 100 to 125 weighed cored jackets.
Stop to adjust for weight. I cut my cores about.8/10 to 1 full grain above finished weight.
Heres how i figure my weight IE 68 gr bullet 825 J4 jacket This lot each jacket weighs 23.1 grs. so i subtract that from my finished weight. 68Gr - 23.1 grs = 44.9 grs this is the core weight i'm shooting for add about 1 gr for squiring
So raw slugs cut should weigh 45.9 grs. aprox. I then set up my core squirt to start squiring a tad off until i reach my weight screwing the die down a tad at a Time until i hit my weight. I then place it into a jacket and weigh to check
Finished weight. when i'm there at the proper setting it's just repeating the process until i have enough to run.
I use the old lids from the jacket buckets for trays. they hold about 100 to 125 weighed cored jackets.
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Gerry, Hood cores are phenomenally consistent. If you can squirt cores as good as Hood's, your doing well.
I have a set of 6mm Clarence Detsch dies made way back when. Got them a couple years ago from a retired shooter. The point die is a 6.75 ogive. I recently had George Ulrich make me a set of 30 cal dies, 7 ogive boatail's. I've been working with these for a couple months and I'm thrilled with the progress so far. After playing with different test lots, I've arrived at a spot where I think they are making a very good bullet. I'm waiting on more 30 cal jackets so I can really get going with these. George is working on a 6mm 8.5 ogive point die as well a boatail seater for me now. As far as process, I follow a process that comes from a bunch of different sources. I've talked to several bullet makers, as well as read everything I could find about the subject. In the end, its just like chambering barrels, you find a process that works for you and modify along the way until you get the results you are looking for. While no two bullet makers out there are going to do everything in the same manner, I think most would agree that consistency and cleanliness are paramount. The link that Wilbur posted is in the articles section of the website and has idea's from some of the best bullet makers out there, past and current. Hopefully this thread can bring out some more great idea's to help all of us in our bullet making.
I have a set of 6mm Clarence Detsch dies made way back when. Got them a couple years ago from a retired shooter. The point die is a 6.75 ogive. I recently had George Ulrich make me a set of 30 cal dies, 7 ogive boatail's. I've been working with these for a couple months and I'm thrilled with the progress so far. After playing with different test lots, I've arrived at a spot where I think they are making a very good bullet. I'm waiting on more 30 cal jackets so I can really get going with these. George is working on a 6mm 8.5 ogive point die as well a boatail seater for me now. As far as process, I follow a process that comes from a bunch of different sources. I've talked to several bullet makers, as well as read everything I could find about the subject. In the end, its just like chambering barrels, you find a process that works for you and modify along the way until you get the results you are looking for. While no two bullet makers out there are going to do everything in the same manner, I think most would agree that consistency and cleanliness are paramount. The link that Wilbur posted is in the articles section of the website and has idea's from some of the best bullet makers out there, past and current. Hopefully this thread can bring out some more great idea's to help all of us in our bullet making.
OK,new thread,lets kick it up a notch.
How do you guys control or deal with the oxidation that forms on lead wire,or do you ignore it ? How do you feel about the tightness or loosness of newer or older presses,slop in the linkage,etc.Do sloppy presses create sloppy bullets ? When shifting from short jacket light weight bullets to long jacket heavier bullets do you use shims to elevate dies so that you can return to your short set up or do you re-adjust and re-set die lock rings? When slight lead or copper builds up on core seating punch how do you remove? What about the temperature of dies and components,do you try and control this.Who is washing current production J-4 jackets before use,with what,and is it necessary at all?
Joel
How do you guys control or deal with the oxidation that forms on lead wire,or do you ignore it ? How do you feel about the tightness or loosness of newer or older presses,slop in the linkage,etc.Do sloppy presses create sloppy bullets ? When shifting from short jacket light weight bullets to long jacket heavier bullets do you use shims to elevate dies so that you can return to your short set up or do you re-adjust and re-set die lock rings? When slight lead or copper builds up on core seating punch how do you remove? What about the temperature of dies and components,do you try and control this.Who is washing current production J-4 jackets before use,with what,and is it necessary at all?
Joel
Joe,
I also use Hood cores, very good product. I clean my lead cores with lacquer thinner and boil them in TPS and water for 15 mins. I let them set over night to get a film of oxidation on them before core setting. Yes I clean my J4 jackets with acetone before using them. I have heard you can not be to clean. I would not want to get any sand in my dies, not saying that J4 would have dirty jackets, just a back up, things do happen during manufacturing a product.
john
I also use Hood cores, very good product. I clean my lead cores with lacquer thinner and boil them in TPS and water for 15 mins. I let them set over night to get a film of oxidation on them before core setting. Yes I clean my J4 jackets with acetone before using them. I have heard you can not be to clean. I would not want to get any sand in my dies, not saying that J4 would have dirty jackets, just a back up, things do happen during manufacturing a product.
john
First answer to hal D. I;m really cofident in my core weight . They are within 1/10 GR of a target weight
Bullet are either 67.9 or 68 gr finished. also thirtys and 22s are set the same way. Thats my QC.
Third answer. Fla mac.
I won't use harsh chemicals like acetone or laquer thinner i feel it's not necessary. Plain dish soap with hot water is more then adequate. I also don't etch cores. if i did want to etch them i would use white vinegar. Natural products are safer. Those other chemicals can and will catch up with you over time.
Bullet are either 67.9 or 68 gr finished. also thirtys and 22s are set the same way. Thats my QC.
Third answer. Fla mac.
I won't use harsh chemicals like acetone or laquer thinner i feel it's not necessary. Plain dish soap with hot water is more then adequate. I also don't etch cores. if i did want to etch them i would use white vinegar. Natural products are safer. Those other chemicals can and will catch up with you over time.