New bolt fit

P

PEI Rob

New member
The action is untouched except for retaping the base holes, I have not trued it yet. The gap is .049" without clearance so that leaves .044" with .005" clearance in front of the handle, firing pin protrusion is .060". Not being a remington guy, I do not know how much at the back of the bolt body can be removed before trouble starts with trigger. What choices do I have?

Jan_10_08_031.jpg
 
Rob, I would first go ahead and true the action,then start setting your bolt timing and the clearance you want on the bolt handle. The timing is the most important. I have done alot of Dave's bolts and never had to cut any off the back of the bolts. If you cut the back of the bolt body you are going to have to recut the cocking piece cam and the notch. Are you worried about the gap between the handle and the shroud? If this is your first one it can be a little testy,but stick with it and you'll get it. Hope this helps. Boe
 
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Choices-
Longer bolt lugs on your PT&G bolt.
Production run PT&G bolt lugs are +.020"-.022" in length to allow facing to retain OEM breech dimensions on molested actions.

Facing off the aft end of the bolt body will require you to manufacture a 1/2"-13 tpi index threaded f/pin shroud.

Striker to sear hand-off dimension is approximately .060" that you have to play with if you decide to face the aft end of the bolt body to reduce the clearance between aft end of bolt body/handle & f/pin shroud.

LOCATE/TIME/TIG weld the handle to the bolt body.
 
Just a warning: Joel Pendergraft & I converted my Remington (older, Serial XX,XXX) to take a Savage bolt head. I measured the clearance with the bolt closed -- .020. So we fitted the Savage head .010 long, to give .010 clearance.

When done, the bolt wouldn't drop. Scratched my head. Turned out that the slot for closing the bolt wasn't quite true. Yes, it had .020 clearance when closed, but the original clearance was only .010 at the point just before the cam engaged. We wound up taking .010 off the back of the lugs, which restored the original timing & everything was fine.

Let me stress that while Joel did the machining, I made the measurements; the error was mine.

The moral to me anyway, is measure clearance (timing) just before the bolt cams start to engage.

FWIW
 
PEI Rob said:
The action is untouched except for retaping the base holes, I have not trued it yet. The gap is .049" without clearance so that leaves .044" with .005" clearance in front of the handle, firing pin protrusion is .060". Not being a remington guy, I do not know how much at the back of the bolt body can be removed before trouble starts with trigger. What choices do I have?

Jan_10_08_031.jpg
Click to expand...

Why do you have to remove anything from the back of the bolt body? Does it not function with a firing pin assembly in place and in the rifle?

Do you have the old bolt for sale? PM me please.
 
Charles E, thanks. I remeasured in different positions and I get as low as .038". A little tough to measure when it isn't attached or timed yet and this is preliminary measurement with a caliper so this figure is ROUGH. I'm not going by, it just getting in the ballpark.

Dan, this brand new PT&G bolt is going to have to do, I just got it a couple of days ago. It is exactly the same oal as a factory Rem bolt btw. Factory lug thickness .439" on both. Yep thats right, both are the same. The PT&G bolt has .446" lugs. Both bolts are 5.666" from the end to the lug. The only length difference between the two bolts is the distance to the from the front of the lugs to the hood. The PT&G handle is .010" thinner and the factory bolt has a .027" gap in front of the handle using the feeler gage. Thats about .037" minus the .005" gap which leaves me roughly .032". As Boe mentioned I would need to true the action and weld the handle on first but I wanted to get a grasp on the general amount I'm dealing with.

The shroud can only screw in about .2 of a turn past seating in the detent position which means .8 of a turn further required, so that's about .062" worth of material. Could I take .032" off the body and .030" of the shroud face? I was thinking of brazing some material onto the threads and recutting the threads anyway but was concerned about the braze galling or wearing too fast. A jig made to fit the inside of the shroud stepped in diameter and a 3/16 bolt to hold it should be fine for working on the shroud.

The facts are the action will be trued and the handle will be welded on in the position required. The gap behind the PT&G handle will be there and if I understand correctly its only cosmetic. I could have the rear of the handle built up with TIG and turn it after but I rather improve the shroud fit if possible.

Cheers,
Rob
 
Was gone away from my reply for awhile Dennis so I didn't see your post, I just figured that out :D Sorry, he is keeping the spare bolt.
 
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