Need help with a new toy

B

Boyd Allen

Active member
I just got a CMP 40x rimfire, single shot heavy barrel. The Barreled action looks like it has hardly been touched. The stock has a few rack marks that will go completely away when I refinish it. It has the 700 style bolt handle, a FL accessory rail, the bedding device screws at the forend tip, and blocks for a Unertl, as well as for mounting irons. (weighs a ton)

The plan is to mount an extra 36X B&L, and a 2 oz trigger, probably a Canjar that I have sitting around. While I have it apart, I will look the bedding over. Who makes the best cleaning rod guide? How do you guys clean, and what ammo should I try first? I know the drill for CF, but know that I could use some help getting started in RF. Suggestions?
 
Now that I got that out of the way....

I bought a bore guide from Sinclair then did a few mods to make it work better. Mainly squaring up the front end so it stays in the receiver better and fitting a rear 'sleeve' sorta like what Lucas does. I use a 20 cal rod so I did my own rear sleeve. Lucas may make a bore guide.

Sinclair has the Davidson bases for the 40x so you can use Kelbly rings you may already have.

Clean after every target or box of ammo. I use Ballistol as a cleaning fluid. Only a borescope can tell you how many patches or how much brushing you need to do. I do at least 3 wet patches and few dry between targets. Same at the end of the day but with one pass with a pistol brush then some more wet, then dry, then oil.

How much you wanting to spend on ammo? You should try some SK Standard Plus, some SK Rifle Match, some Wolf varieties. Next comes Eley Match EPS and you would need to order some test lots to see what might work best in your rifle. Bob Collins is who I get my Eley from. He can give you a lot of tips.

You could also whittle up a 3" glide plate to fit the forend rail.
 
Last edited:
I just bought a Lucus bore guide and it is best I have ever used. Perfect fit. His email is on here somewhere. 39.95 I think it was worth it.

Chadflys
 
I also have a Lucas Bore Guide and they are the best I have ever used, however, if you are going to leave it in the factory stock, the Lucas will not work due to the high comb on the stock. At least on my CMP 40X,. the comb gets in the way of the cleaning rod. I have to use a Sinclair guide on my CMP 40X.

Dave
 
DSCN1030.jpg you will need weaver #35 and #36 bases. this is a heavy barrel just finished today, it will probably be shot open sights. just put the scope on to check accuracy.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
DSCN1032.jpg just finished this a little while ago, put those rifleman rings on and they are fine. used #35&#36 weaver bases. this is a commercial 40 from cmp put a jewell trigger in and it was recrowned and bedded. it may be the most accurate of the bunch. these like most any ammo I use eley with speeds in the 1056 to 1071 range. these rifles are worth twice what cmp charged.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Boyd, some of these are ans some are not bedded. the 2 screws to the front of the hand rail are tuning screws. back those out the whole way and make sure the barrel is floated. when installing you canjar trigger take notice how the bolt release is set up. I have not seen a canjar trigger on these that had a bolt release. some of the guys once installing a canjar use a pen knife or plastic fork to operate the bolt release. if those tuning screws are putting pressure on the barrel left like that they can cause cracks in the stock. you will also notice a small diameter screw a that fits right in front of the trigger guard and attaches in front of the trigger. I remove that and only use the 2 action screws. found thats the best for accuracy. usually have no more than 25lbs of tourqe on the action screws. enjoy
 
Dave s, on picture 1032 click and expand you will see I took most of the comb off and tapered it to the butt pad. makes it a lot easier to clean and get the bolt out.
 
I use the front trigger guard screw as the rear action screw on both my 40x. I float the tang. On my CF I d&t'ed it to 1/4-28. I haven't done this yet on the RF and the small screw is working fine.
 
DSCN0997.jpg all of my rimfires incuding sporters have the tang bedded.
 
I got my start with Savage centerfires so floating the tang is something I know works well and I am comfortable with it. It just makes sense to me to have that big expanse of uninterrupted bedding be ALL the bedding not to mention the strength of the center of the receiver where it is a solid chunk of steel whereas the tang has lots of metal cut away on a 40x.
 
Boyd,
First, call Dan Killough and order an Ivy Rod and a bore guide. Second, I clean after EVERY target. I use one wet patch (mostly Rimfire Blend and some Kroil) and a couple dry. You have to rely on the solvents otherwise why use them at all. I use Eley ammo. Find some your gun likes. But lastly.....don't get discouraged until you re-stock (with a benchrest stock), re-barrel with a great s.s. barrel, and get a 2 oz. trigger on that gun. I'd call three gunsmiths that build GREAT Rem. 40X's....Gene Davis, Mark Penrod, and Roger Brock and ask them what they think. I like the advice from the movie Tommy Boy....you can get a good look at the t-bone by sticking your head up the bulls a$$, but I'd take the butchers word for it!

Carp
 
Ray, you realize that the hole diameter in the wood is .275 and oblong and the small screw is .160 diameter.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i was trying to adjust my canjar trigger as light as possible
and everyone here said the lightest they're made for is 6 oz.
they were right mine was already at 6.5 when i went just
a little lighter it would come uncocked upon lowering the
bolt handle. i set it back where it was and it works fine at
6.5 oz. i think you'll need a jewell or something else to get
to 2 oz.
 
martin hammond said:
Ray, you realize that the hole diameter in the wood is .275 and oblong and the small screw is .160 diameter.
Click to expand...

Custom pillars. Another thing to remember is that the front action screw is well back from the front face of the receiver so it is pulling the entire rec down into the bedding.

I also don't use the action screws to retain the trigger guard. Less chance of introducing stress.
 
Ray, please show us the custom pillers. and bedding of your 40x.
 
I just took it out of the stock, removed the scope blocks from the barrel and front receiver ring, the front and rear iron sight mounts, and moved the plug screws from the rear scope mount holes to the rear sight adapter holes on the left side of the rear bridge. The barrel shows loose powder residue. I am going to gently use a coated rod to slowly push a couple of wet and dry patches through the bore, with the barreled action in a low torque rifle vise, so that I can get a look at the bore. The barrel is 28" long and .880 at the muzzle. I think that it was made in the early '90's. All indications are that it was hardly ever shot. There appears to be a strip of acraglas down the center of the bedding and some thickness at the tang. I backed the two bedding device screws off before I loosened the action screws, and a piece of paper would pass all the way down the barrel channel, under the barrel, but it looks a mite close at the very front bottom. I seem to remember an old article about using a powered continuity tester to determine when exact contact is made, on the barrel with each of the bedding device screws , on either side, just behind the tip of the forend. Trigger options are a Canjar light pull that adjusts from 2 to 12oz. and a 2oz. Shilen that has possibly had its trigger return spring replaced with a lighter one. it is very light. I have a light pull on another rifle (CF) and it has not been a problem getting it down to 2oz. they are the ones with the odd looking finger piece of heavy gage aluminum wire, held in place with a set screw. Tomorrow I will pick up and mount some Weaver bases, bedding them in clear epoxy, change triggers, put it back in the stock, and mount the scope. I am still mulling over which two kinds of ammunition to try first. I will probably depend on what is available locally.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top