My first chamber

L

liljoe

New member
Well it finally happened today, I cut my first complete chamber. I cut another partial one yesterday but screwed the threading up, so I had to cut it off and start over. I am very happy with the way it finished up. I did the Jackie Schmidt quality control after everything was finished and was amazed how straight it ended up. Nothing has more than .0003" runout. I even checked it with 2 different indicator, one with a short point and one with a 1.5" point. It even fit the gun pretty good. The only thing that didn't finish right were I wanted was the thread ended up .001" under what I was shooting for.

Joe Hynes
 

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A loose thread is better than a tight thread. Don't sweat about a thou with a thread ...
 
Joe

That looks very nice.

I like your statement, "it even fit the gun pretty good". That is the object of the whole exercise.:D.......jackie
 
It just kinda made me mad when I went and did one more pass over the thread to just clean it and maybe remove just a tiny bit and it shaved a pretty good amount off from it. Oh well there is always the next victim.

Joe
 
Oh and just for Jerry, no chicken slot. I have been practicing that technique, cutting to a shoulder.

Joe
 
liljoe said:
Well it finally happened today, I cut my first complete chamber. I cut another partial one yesterday but screwed the threading up, so I had to cut it off and start over. I am very happy with the way it finished up. I did the Jackie Schmidt quality control after everything was finished and was amazed how straight it ended up. Nothing has more than .0003" runout. I even checked it with 2 different indicator, one with a short point and one with a 1.5" point. It even fit the gun pretty good. The only thing that didn't finish right were I wanted was the thread ended up .001" under what I was shooting for.

Joe Hynes
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Joe, looks good.

Most BR gunsmiths like to polish the cone and cone to chamber edge area using #320 abrasive cloth or paper, in order to break the sharp edge and smooth the cone face to ease the feed of the bullet tip.........minor thing but most do it.....Don
 
NICEly DONE!!!

A question.... did you use HSS or carbide tool bit? IF HSS ...... side rake? Care to elaborate? That's a nice thread.

al
 
liljoe said:
Oh and just for Jerry, no chicken slot. I have been practicing that technique, cutting to a shoulder.

Joe
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Now, without the thread relief, don't you think the job looks much more professional? Functionally, without the thread relief you an now set the barrel back to refresh the chamber after 300-500 shots. I also feel that by distributing the torque stress over the entire tenon creates a more stable joining of the barrel and action.

Joe, now you are one!!!
 
Al,

This thread was cut with a HSS bit. I have been using a Kennametal insert but I broke a couple while trying to learn this threading stuff. Each time I did it cost me $15. So I spent about 2 hours yesterday grinding a HSS one. It really seems to cut nice. I have been listening Jerry Sharrett. :)

Not sure what kinda angle, probably about 10deg or so side rake. I figured since I was feeding mostly to the left side, it should help cut a little smoother. You know the story about the blind hog right?

Don,
I did smooth the cone and the edge pretty good, kinda hard to see in the pic at that angle.

Thanks for the compliments guys.

Joe Hynes
 
Joe,

Like you I'm trying to get the feel of a new lathe. For me, I actually went to gunsmithing school for this stuff, 26yrs ago! ...............Things have changed and things have remained the same.......... a well ground HSS bit STILL CUTS BETTER than anything :) at least for me. I dinked around with carbide for a while just because it's available, couldn't get it to slice, peel and shine, thought I was going crazy.... then I ground a bit and AHHhhhhhhhhhh, we're baaa'ackk...... FOR ME it's like night and day. HSS respects the workpiece, carbide rapes it. :eek:

al
 
Al

Carbide Inserts work better than anything IF, (BIG IF), you have the proper machine. That means, stiff, with the ability to thread at a high enough suface feet per minute to allow the insert to perform as it should.

I grew up running, (and learning on), old worn out machines, and hand grinding Rex 95 or Momax Cobalt. Now, it has to be some thing REALLY extreme for me to use anything but some sort of insert.

But, for the hobbyist, who does not have a operating business to foot the bill for tools, hand grinding tools fron HHS works just fine.........jackie
 
hss insterts

seco still make hss threading inserts , so you get the proper form ,
but they cost as much as carbide one,S :)
 
jackie schmidt said:
Carbide Inserts work better than anything IF, (BIG IF), you have the proper machine. That means, stiff, with the ability to thread at a high enough suface feet per minute to allow the insert to perform as it should.

I grew up running, (and learning on), old worn out machines, and hand grinding Rex 95 or Momax Cobalt. Now, it has to be some thing REALLY extreme for me to use anything but some sort of insert.

But, for the hobbyist, who does not have a operating business to foot the bill for tools, hand grinding tools fron HHS works just fine.........jackie
Click to expand...


I know that you're right, and as a business owner I KNOW that you're right again about shoptime, if I were doing this for a living watching one of my men standing at a grinder or honing a tool would kill me! :D ........ but it felt good, for ME, a SHARP HSS bit is still a wonderful thing to use on gunsteels.....slowly......trainwrecks don't excite me..... I'm fiddling about slow and easy on my own time. And in time I'll learn how to ramp up to carbide.


LOL


al
 
I don't work on many things that are hard enough to require carbide. Barreling actions isn't done any "better" with carbide. Use it if it is convenient for you but grinding a HHS bit isn't a big deal and so much cheaper... I'm still pissed about a $60 carbide internal threading tool I went 5 thou too far with... did not get 5 minutes worth out of it.
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
I don't work on many things that are hard enough to require carbide. Barreling actions isn't done any "better" with carbide. Use it if it is convenient for you but grinding a HHS bit isn't a big deal and so much cheaper... I'm still pissed about a $60 carbide internal threading tool I went 5 thou too far with... did not get 5 minutes worth out of it.
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I'm with Dennis. HSS or HSSCo, well ground will get you a better job every time on small lathes. Carbide inserts are designed to take high horsepower cuts at high feedrates. Very, very few carbide inserts have a sharp enough cutting edge to allow "skimming" a few thousants off a tenon shoulder or OD.

I've been in two of Valenites factories in Royal Oak and two Kennametal carbide plants in Tennessee and one Kennametal plant in Virginia. Seeing how carbide inserts are made and seeing high magnifications of the powdered metallurgy, you would understand why carbides can't stand sharp edges. You can take a diamond wheel and put a keen edge or lip on one but if you even much more than breathe on it the edge is gone.
 
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