Ok. I have been racking my little brain for some time now about what to chamber for the short game. We have a couple local shoots in the area one being a varmint for score, the other is a 100 for group. I really didnt want to go with a ppc, so i finally choose a 30BR. My smith ordered the reamer today from Dave Kiff. I dont know all the details of the reamer but i do know it has Zero free bore. I ordered some bib 112 bullets. My smith said that i will have to turn the brass as he thinks that when necking up i will have donut problems. I would think that the reamer Dave sold us is a common reamer so i was hoping i could get some input from you guys that are already shooting this chamber. I have never turned brass before and to be honest it sounds a bit intimidating!! I need to know what tools i will need to do this properly. I also need to know what dies you fellas are using. Any input would be a plus! Thanks Lee
My first 30BR I need some guidance.
- Thread starter skeetlee
- Start date
jackie schmidt
New member
Skeetlee
Just like the 6PPC, there is an industry now built around the 30BR.
But, I am a little concerned that your 'Smith does not know enough about this chambering to know 100 percent sure that you will have to turn necks. When you expand the necks up this amount, a lot of metal changes position. The Do-nut is just one of the reasons that neck turning is, in my opinion, mandatory. I can't amagine building a 30 BR from the Lapua 6BR Case without doing something to the necks.
I would venture a guess that what you have is the standard Robinett .330 neck, zero free bore reamer that is very popular. It will say that on the reamer shank.
If your 'Smith did not get that reamer, he should have.
I assume you are getting a 1-17 or 1-18 twist barrel.
As for dies, both Redding and Wilson make die sets. Just give Amy a call at Brunos, or call Sinclair, and they will fix you up with every thing you need.
If the reamer has a .330 neck, get a .325 bushing.
I will let someone else tell you where to get all of your neck turning equipment, as I do not turn necks in the conventional manner. But rest assured, turning necks has been made into a very doable endevour because of the tools that are available. It is really no more intimidating than any thing else involved in the Extremem Accuracy game.
Just like the 6PPC, there is an industry now built around the 30BR.
But, I am a little concerned that your 'Smith does not know enough about this chambering to know 100 percent sure that you will have to turn necks. When you expand the necks up this amount, a lot of metal changes position. The Do-nut is just one of the reasons that neck turning is, in my opinion, mandatory. I can't amagine building a 30 BR from the Lapua 6BR Case without doing something to the necks.
I would venture a guess that what you have is the standard Robinett .330 neck, zero free bore reamer that is very popular. It will say that on the reamer shank.
If your 'Smith did not get that reamer, he should have.
I assume you are getting a 1-17 or 1-18 twist barrel.
As for dies, both Redding and Wilson make die sets. Just give Amy a call at Brunos, or call Sinclair, and they will fix you up with every thing you need.
If the reamer has a .330 neck, get a .325 bushing.
I will let someone else tell you where to get all of your neck turning equipment, as I do not turn necks in the conventional manner. But rest assured, turning necks has been made into a very doable endevour because of the tools that are available. It is really no more intimidating than any thing else involved in the Extremem Accuracy game.
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If your concerned about a donut use a K&M neck turner with the carbide cutter. If it's for a .330 neck, I prefer to make 2 incremental cuts.Ideal to buy 2 neck-turners ---only final cut needs to be carbide ( Actually while I use a carbide cutter on the PPC brass, for the 30 BR I have the standard cutter and have not had donut problems. Once set they should last quite a while.
Nice to have a tube micrometer to check your progress, but the number that counts (and easiest to measure) is to seat a bullet your going to use and mike the neck OD....shoot for no more than .328....a little less is OK.
The problems I first had in neck turning was finding the right fixture to hold the case from spinning with the cutter.The K&M holder only worked if I really torqued it down with a wrench...tried the Lee Zip? holder, but it would was troublesome....settled on a Hart holder which uses the Lee S/H .
You will get inconsistant readings as you mike if you don't keep the turner and cutter at a relatively constant temp....heats up from friction. I put the turner in ice-water after each cut.
The final cut I do twice.
I use 50/50 STP and mobile 1 10/30 as lube in and out of the neck.
Early on I changed to a motor driven variable speed set-up which eliminated the hand cramps....and produces a smoother finish.
Take notes as you go, so you remember the various sequences.
Make cuts into the shoulder...just slightly.
You WILL lose cases, especially your first attempt.
It is imperitive that you buy the neck expander matched ( same manufacturer) to the cutter mandrel....and carefully set-up the expander stop or you'll ruin cases before even getting to the turn stage.
Dies--I had the smith make the seater and sizer.... a good smith buys a separate sizing reamer along with the chamber reamer.....this- to my way of thinking leaves nothing to chance. I may have paid more than off the shelf dies,but I know it's right from the first shot.
Nice to have a tube micrometer to check your progress, but the number that counts (and easiest to measure) is to seat a bullet your going to use and mike the neck OD....shoot for no more than .328....a little less is OK.
The problems I first had in neck turning was finding the right fixture to hold the case from spinning with the cutter.The K&M holder only worked if I really torqued it down with a wrench...tried the Lee Zip? holder, but it would was troublesome....settled on a Hart holder which uses the Lee S/H .
You will get inconsistant readings as you mike if you don't keep the turner and cutter at a relatively constant temp....heats up from friction. I put the turner in ice-water after each cut.
The final cut I do twice.
I use 50/50 STP and mobile 1 10/30 as lube in and out of the neck.
Early on I changed to a motor driven variable speed set-up which eliminated the hand cramps....and produces a smoother finish.
Take notes as you go, so you remember the various sequences.
Make cuts into the shoulder...just slightly.
You WILL lose cases, especially your first attempt.
It is imperitive that you buy the neck expander matched ( same manufacturer) to the cutter mandrel....and carefully set-up the expander stop or you'll ruin cases before even getting to the turn stage.
Dies--I had the smith make the seater and sizer.... a good smith buys a separate sizing reamer along with the chamber reamer.....this- to my way of thinking leaves nothing to chance. I may have paid more than off the shelf dies,but I know it's right from the first shot.
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Thanks for the comments. My smith isn't probably as fancy as some but he knows how to build a nice rifle. I have a couple rifles he has done and they are first class all the way!! Jon Beanland is my smith and he is a great guy to boot. He has become a real friend. Anyway i probably worded myself wrong as Jon did tell me i will have to turn the necks. I just has an unexpected expense pop up so i will have to back off on my build a little for now. I was going to build a hole new rifle but with the way things are i am going to have to use one of my stiller predator actions and my McMillan MBR stock. I will be making the 6 dasher a switch barrel. When the cash flow comes back i will set up the rifle the way i had planned. Always something when you have a young family. No worries though. I am going to be using a Krieger 18 twist and Bib 112 bullets on a stiller predator action. Concerning the brass i may see if i can find someone who will turn my brass for me, for a fee of course. I was going to hit Ron Haine up, but i am not sure if he messes with the 30br cases like he does 6ppc. I will start with 100 pieces of new lapua brass. I think that will last for a while. actually now i think about it I can use one of two stocks i have for the 30br. I have a Mcmillan MBR and a Shehane st-1000 laminate. The Shehane is a wonderful stock!! I currently have it set up with a stiller predator and a Krieger 6x47L. So i will have to decide what rifle i want to turn into a switch barrel. I was wanting to do a heavy varmint so i could compete in short range at some bigger matches. That will have to wait for a bit though. Anyway I am going to try and learn as much as i can about turning brass so i can make the decision weather to try this myself or find someone to help. If anyone here can help properly i would pay! The precision reloading and shooting is still all a big learning experience for me, but i am starting to understand how and why things are done the way they are. I really enjoy this sport!! It sure is different than what i was doing. I shot shotguns competitively for 8 years. Not much to that as far as loading goes. Anyway any info is good info for me fellas and as always i appreciate your help!! Take care! Lee
SGJennings
New member
Ron Hoehn does do 30BR brass. At least his site says so.
Someone check me on this but I don't think either of those stocks is legal for VFS. I think they are both 1000 yard stocks.
Greg J.
Someone check me on this but I don't think either of those stocks is legal for VFS. I think they are both 1000 yard stocks.
Greg J.
I am sure you are correct on the stocks. we just have a small club shoot and there are not any rules applying to this. I will get a hv varmint stock as soon as i can. I already ordered the barrel and reamer. I could just wait i guess, but i plan on using a stiller p-1000 action anyway so this will be ok for a bit. It will get me shooting the30br and learning some loads. Lee
Dick Grosbier
Club Coordinator
You are correct Greg, not legal for registered Varmint for Score. Hard to say what is legal in just a club shoot but probably best to stick with IBS rules if you are speaking VFS.
J
Jeffreytooker
Guest
Skeetlee. Been where you are going.
I too am new to 30 BR. I will only say one thing. K&M makes something called an Expandiron. Opens 6MM to 30 cal in one pass. It has an adapter to 14 thread for a press. Use Imperial sizing die wax (liberally). Those who have posted above have given good advice.
Jeffrey Tooker
I too am new to 30 BR. I will only say one thing. K&M makes something called an Expandiron. Opens 6MM to 30 cal in one pass. It has an adapter to 14 thread for a press. Use Imperial sizing die wax (liberally). Those who have posted above have given good advice.
Jeffrey Tooker
Go to the IBS
website from benchrest.com homepage. There you will find the IBS rulebook. In it you can see exactly what is legal for the hunter and varmint hunter classes, the varmint for score class and the long range classes regarding cartridge capacities and stock dimensions. If you ever expect to compete in an IBS sanctioned event it's important to know the rules relative to this stuff. Good luck --Greg
website from benchrest.com homepage. There you will find the IBS rulebook. In it you can see exactly what is legal for the hunter and varmint hunter classes, the varmint for score class and the long range classes regarding cartridge capacities and stock dimensions. If you ever expect to compete in an IBS sanctioned event it's important to know the rules relative to this stuff. Good luck --Greg
Bill Scheider
Bill Scheider
New 30BR
www.6mmbr.com has several pages of great information for the 30BR by major pioneers and players who brought us this fine cartridge.
You may find that the 115gr-118gr bullets do well in the 17-18 twist barrels.
H4198 seems to be the powder of choice as well.
Bill Scheider
www.6mmbr.com has several pages of great information for the 30BR by major pioneers and players who brought us this fine cartridge.
You may find that the 115gr-118gr bullets do well in the 17-18 twist barrels.
H4198 seems to be the powder of choice as well.
Bill Scheider
M
mojo2138
Guest
Ron Hoehn and 30 BR cases
Yes, Ron expands and neck turns 30 BR cases and he does a supurlative job.
Can't go wrong and it is hard to make a 30 shoot badly. Enjoy it!!!!
Yes, Ron expands and neck turns 30 BR cases and he does a supurlative job.
Can't go wrong and it is hard to make a 30 shoot badly. Enjoy it!!!!
I have read the rules and understand them. I just dont have the cash to buy a new stock for the rifle at this time. I Dont shoot the bigger registered matches yet anyway. I am still learning proper technique both shooting and with precision loading. I am just taking it slow and shooting some local club matches. I am competitive and i am sure i will start shooting the bigger shoots but probably not until next year. When i started this project i thought i was going to be able to do it right from the start, but some unforeseen life situations have arrived in the worst time. LOL!! Its always something!! No less I am going to have a barrel chambered and i will just have to time share an action i already have. No big deal!! I have been doing some reading and i am not sure that i am ready to tackle turning my own brass just yet. I was going to call Ron today but didnt have time. I will most likely buy 100 pieces already to go, then i may play around a little. I feel like i need good brass from the start so i can eliminate the Lee factor if something doesnt go so well. I am excited about the 30br as i have been wanting a super accurate 100 yard rifle. All my rifles i have now are fast twist barrels and i just cant seem to get those one hole five shot groups consistently with them. Thanks again guys for all the info, i love reading what you guys have to say. Lee
jackie schmidt
New member
Lee
I think you are taking a very practicle approach.
One good thing about the brass situation, at the loads that the 4198-30BR combo really likes to shoot, brass life seems to be just about infinite. You just load it to shoot a 112 to 118 grn bullet at a flat 3000 fps, tune a little on each side of that to get it tight, and have fun.
You do not have to worry about Ron's brass at all. He is first class all the way. There are probaly a lot more shooters who get their brass turned by an outsider, they just don't admitt it.
Keep us posted. And have a good time. As far as I am concerned, regardless of what you do, if you aren't having a good time, then you are just wasting your time.........jackie
I think you are taking a very practicle approach.
One good thing about the brass situation, at the loads that the 4198-30BR combo really likes to shoot, brass life seems to be just about infinite. You just load it to shoot a 112 to 118 grn bullet at a flat 3000 fps, tune a little on each side of that to get it tight, and have fun.
You do not have to worry about Ron's brass at all. He is first class all the way. There are probaly a lot more shooters who get their brass turned by an outsider, they just don't admitt it.
Keep us posted. And have a good time. As far as I am concerned, regardless of what you do, if you aren't having a good time, then you are just wasting your time.........jackie
SGJennings
New member
I think you'll spend less money if you sell one of the two stocks 1000 yard stocks and get the stock into a legal stock right away. Otherwise, you'll spend money and learn habits that are tied to that stock. You'll be poorer for it when you think to go to that first shoot that sticks to IBS rules.
Greg J.
Greg J.
Thanks fellas again for the replies. It wont be very long before i get a proper stock. I have all kinds of things i could sell if i wanted to. I have built two rifles in the last 3 months so i am just going to take this one a bit easy. It will happen. Stiller is releasing there new p-1000 action here in a couple weeks. I have been waiting on these for a while now. It will all come together in good time, It always does!! thanks again guys i really appreciate your readings!!!!! Lee
Dick Grosbier
Club Coordinator
K&M makes very good, very inexpensive tools. The extra money you pay to buy 100 cases prepped by Ron H. will buy you your own neckturner and accessories.
Dick
Sorry guys but i have a couple more questions to ask. Ok i have finally found a HV barrel in 30 cal 17 0r 18 twist (Not real sure what one it is) The barrel is a Lilja. I havent ever shot a Lilja barrel and to be quite honest i dont read much about them. Are these barrels ok? or would a shilen or Krieger be a better choice? I found a Krieger but it is LV.
The other question is at what length would be best to have my smith cut the barrel at? Thanks again as always!! Lee
The other question is at what length would be best to have my smith cut the barrel at? Thanks again as always!! Lee
Q
quandary
Guest
Ron Hoehn's brass
I run a business, a machine shop, and I have more money than time. Okay, no time at all, and very little money, but his brass is perfect. When I measure the necks they are indistinguishable. I too started with a 30BR and I love the thing. Ron is a Hall of Fame member, IOW he knows what's important, and a very nice guy. So ask yourself; what do I need to learn? Do I need to know all there is about making brass or do I need to know how to read the wind? Where would you spend your time?
I run a business, a machine shop, and I have more money than time. Okay, no time at all, and very little money, but his brass is perfect. When I measure the necks they are indistinguishable. I too started with a 30BR and I love the thing. Ron is a Hall of Fame member, IOW he knows what's important, and a very nice guy. So ask yourself; what do I need to learn? Do I need to know all there is about making brass or do I need to know how to read the wind? Where would you spend your time?
SGJennings
New member
If you ever plan to shoot a registered match, you will want to build a 13.5 lb rifle. You might also want to consider balance.
Action + Stock + Barrel + Scope + Tuner (if any) + Balance Weight (if any) = 13.5 lbs.
Greg J.