most effective muzzle break?
- Thread starter mattri
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Larry Elliott
Guest
The most effective brake I've seen or used is the clamshell type that is fitted on Barrett's .50 BMG rifles. I shot a .300 Ultra Mag with one of those brakes and it was like shooting a .223, but just gawdawful loud. Top quality earplugs and muffs are both needed unless you want to be as deaf as I am anymore. 
They're also pretty big and about as attractive as a large wart on an otherwise pretty girl's nose.
They're also pretty big and about as attractive as a large wart on an otherwise pretty girl's nose.
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Larry Elliott
Guest
The brake I was thinking of is a little different than I remember, but very effective anyway. It's made by J. P. Enterprises, and it's called the Recoil Eliminator. They're available from Brownell's, < www.brownells.com >, and the price was $109.95, but may have gone up in the new catalog that's coming out. They're good for calibers up to .350. Brownell's website will have a picture of them, if you search for part number 452-017-528AC.
Having military origins, a clamshell brake is likely one of the most efficient brakes. But as Larry mentioned, it is UGLY as sin, and would not be a consideration for many folks just due to that alone
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There are bunches of brakes out there that you would readilly find on websight searches, with Vais being one of the more popular. I bought a Holland's Brake with the consideration that it is a very efficient brake that doesn't have open baffles on the bottom to blow dirt back up at you should you ever be shooting from a bipod. Hollands is also one of the few smiths who has a special rig and is willing to install his brake on your barreled action without having to remove the barrel. He has a stellar reputation as a smith, and working with him (and his wife who usually manages the phone) was a pleasure too.
http://www.hollandguns.com/
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There are bunches of brakes out there that you would readilly find on websight searches, with Vais being one of the more popular. I bought a Holland's Brake with the consideration that it is a very efficient brake that doesn't have open baffles on the bottom to blow dirt back up at you should you ever be shooting from a bipod. Hollands is also one of the few smiths who has a special rig and is willing to install his brake on your barreled action without having to remove the barrel. He has a stellar reputation as a smith, and working with him (and his wife who usually manages the phone) was a pleasure too.
http://www.hollandguns.com/
JP rifles will also install their brake on your rifle. I have used their brakes 6 times, 4 times they installed them. They did an excellent job.
I have had both the recoil eliminator and the regular cylinder ported brakes and the recoil eliminator is more effective. They are ugly however.
http://www.jprifles.com/
I have had both the recoil eliminator and the regular cylinder ported brakes and the recoil eliminator is more effective. They are ugly however.
http://www.jprifles.com/
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david dumas
Guest
Lynwood Harrell's brake does a good job of reducing felt recoil, easy to get,easy to install, avilb in lots of size's, $ is right too!
the wind is my friend,,,,,,,,,,,
DD
the wind is my friend,,,,,,,,,,,
DD
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Louis Boyd
Guest
There is more to muzzle brake performance than just the brake itself. The other factors which affect how well a brake will reduce recoil are the expansion ratio of the rifle (chamber volume+barrel volume)/(chamber volume), barrel length, and the pressure curve of the propellant. An efficient brake is mutually exclusive to having an overall efficient rifle. The ultimate in brakes is the recoilless rifle where a lot of propellant is used simply for reducing the net recoil of the rifle to zero. Brakes work best (lowest rifle recoil velocity) on short barrel rifles with low expansion ratios and high pressure high volume cartridges which give high muzzle pressure. Simply capturing the muzzle gas (as with a suppressor) or diverting it to the side is roughly 50% as efficient as diverting the gas to the rear without slowing it as is nearly achieved with clamshell and similar brake designs. The obvious downside of that is high muzzle blast for the shooter.
I have a 24" barrel 50 BMG carbine semi-auto. It's recoil is low enough that it can be fired offhand standing comfortably, but the muzzle blast is more painful to the chest and sinuses than it's recoil is to the shoulder. That brake is a side diverting, not rear diverting design. It's quite possible for a muzzle brake to be too efficient. You may find the ultimate recoil reducing brake but you may not like the muzzle blast. You can't have both, at least not by methods which just divert the propellant gas.
I have a 24" barrel 50 BMG carbine semi-auto. It's recoil is low enough that it can be fired offhand standing comfortably, but the muzzle blast is more painful to the chest and sinuses than it's recoil is to the shoulder. That brake is a side diverting, not rear diverting design. It's quite possible for a muzzle brake to be too efficient. You may find the ultimate recoil reducing brake but you may not like the muzzle blast. You can't have both, at least not by methods which just divert the propellant gas.
keithcandler
New member
I have 7 Different kinds of breaks, it is hard to tell the difference in any of them! I would not opt for the Clam Shell break because of the DIRE consequences on resale.
I use a set of ear plugs and a set of Peltor Tac 6 electronic ear muffs when I am pulling the trigger on any kind of gun....ringing in my ears.
I use a set of ear plugs and a set of Peltor Tac 6 electronic ear muffs when I am pulling the trigger on any kind of gun....ringing in my ears.
brian roberts
New member
Check out the..........................
Smith Enterprise (no extra S). They make a pretty effective brake, and it should work well with a .300.
Smith Enterprise (no extra S). They make a pretty effective brake, and it should work well with a .300.
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Jim S
Guest
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AVanGorder
Guest
In the picture below are two of my 20 Tactical AR uppers with Harrell's brakes. They work very well and they only cost $30.
Ackley Improved
New member
I am using one of Jered Joplin's brakes (APA), the Little Bastard on a 300WSM.
I am pushing 200SMK at 2905fps, rifle weighs in at 16lbs.
Recoil is so very minimal. It is a pleasure to shoot, and I can spot my shots which is great. Downside, man it is loud.
Also, when looking at brakes, will it be shot prone from the ground/dirt. The Vias are nice, but I do not recommend anything with ports underneath towards the ground, unless you want to be showered in crap!!!
Here is a little video of it in action.. if it works!!
Cheers
I am pushing 200SMK at 2905fps, rifle weighs in at 16lbs.
Recoil is so very minimal. It is a pleasure to shoot, and I can spot my shots which is great. Downside, man it is loud.
Also, when looking at brakes, will it be shot prone from the ground/dirt. The Vias are nice, but I do not recommend anything with ports underneath towards the ground, unless you want to be showered in crap!!!
Here is a little video of it in action.. if it works!!
Cheers
S
steve b.
Guest
We just installed a new brake from Ross (http://benchrest.com/class/index.php?a=5&b=238) on a 7mm STW, and it actually works better than I had expected. The rifle is a medium weight sporting rifle, at 8.5lbs, and the recoil feels like something between a .308 Win and .30-06 Spr. The price was very good, $50 shipped. Sheldon installed it at the shop, blended the lines and did a fine job timing the brake. I have many different brakes on varmint rifles, and this is just as good as any I have used.
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squirrelduster
Guest
Barrels and Holland brakes are two completely different designs with the Harrels throwing dirt if you shoot prone. The Holland is fairly effective but if you want one that Really works go for the one from center shot rifles. There are several that look similar but the depth of the fins makes a big difference. More surface area works more like the big Barret brakes or the JP's.