Monarch 10ee for chambering

M

mks

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What is the spindle length on a 10ee? Too long to chamber BR barrels with a spider on the outboard end? Has anyone come up with a way to make this work?

Thanks,
Keith
 
Lots of replies to this sort of issue. Best is to do a google search, even for things in the BR Central "gunsmiths forum"

Here's one thread:

http://benchrest.com/showthread.php...adstock-with-Long-Spindle-and-Shorter-Barrels

And another below. One reference is to to Joel Pendergraft's solution, which used a photo hosting service no longer giving the picture. He's in Durham, not too far from Chapel Hill. The Clausing Colchester has about a 2" spindle i.d., and any barrel less than 26 inches we do required the adapter. IIRC, you're not too far away?

http://www.pendergraftgunworks.com/ask.html

and the BR Central link:

http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?37485-Through-the-Headstock/page3

I believe Jim Borden has a different solution, might do a Google search...

Hope this helps
 
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On my Kent for shorter barrels than what I can use with 4 set screws tapped into the spindle end, I made a aluminum round about a foot long that is a slip fit into the spindle and has stainless tips set screwed to the aluminum round on both ends. The stainless tips are turned for 60 degree centers. One of them is set up where it will take removable pilots in 6mm or .22. The other end just has a 60 degree center. For the most part, the short barrels that I do are either 6mm or .22 benchrest barrels. I use the piloted end when I thread and chamber short barrels and the non piloted end when I crown a short barrel. I'll use one or two of the set screws to hold the center in place so that I can hold the barrel tight against the center. It works and I haven't seen a problem with benchrest barrels not shooting because of doing them this way. I really think that the muzzle end isn't all that important anyway when a barrel is set up to chamber as long as it's held tight and doesn't flop.

As a test once, I indicated a barrel in and cut good centers in the barrel. Put it between centers and turned a new cylinder true to the lathe axis and the new centers. Then chucked up the barrel in a 6 jaw chuck and centered the projected throat on the barrel leaving the muzzle end unsupported. Drilled and bored out most of the chamber and reamed the chamber. Don't remember what I did to crown it. The .30-06 barrel easily shot under 1/2" five shot groups. You couldn't run the lathe very fast or the barrel would set up vibration because the muzzle end wasn't supported. I was talking to Troy Newlon who makes the Newlon die bodies several years ago and he uses the cardboard sleeves that go around his dies to support the muzzle end of his barrels in his lathe. You can read just about anything you want on this forum, but you'll find barrel set ups that work even though done differently and barrel set ups that are almost anal. The bottom line is that if the barrel shoots when you are done, then your set up was good. If it doesn't, then you have a problem.
 
If you don't already have a 10ee consider a south bend heavy 10. If your spindle bearings go out on a 10ee new ones are about $18,,000
 
JerrySharrett said:
If you don't already have a 10ee consider a south bend heavy 10. If your spindle bearings go out on a 10ee new ones are about $18,,000
Click to expand...

I would consider a south bend if there was one available locally. What's available close by right now is what looks to be a decent 10ee, and a possibly worn out Colchester 15x50 with a companion parts machine.
 
Charles E said:
Lots of replies to this sort of issue.
Click to expand...

Charles,
Thanks. Some of the pictures aren't available on the old threads, but I think I get the idea. Joel's gadget seems to be like the frog attachment on a Bedrock plane. I actually sketched up something like this when I was considering a Nardini with a 1 7/8" spindle bore. Not sure this would fit in the 1.4" bore of the Monarch, but something similar might work.

Cheers,
Keith
 
I have a Nardini 1440 and if I have to do a barrel that is too short to fit through (lots of them are) I have a series of bushings that are slip-fit to the spindle. I then use Gordy Gritter's method of indicating to see if the chamber end is straight enough. If it's not, I can use a piece of tape to push the bushing off but have only had to do it once. I use a bushing to support the tenon when crowning. I also made a collet out of aluminum to put around the shank when I clamp it in the 4-jaw. If I ever get around to making a spider for the front side, I might do something different- but, then again, I might not!
 
Ditto On EE Spindle Bearings. We bought one years ago at an auction, it had a bad set of bearings, (we got it cheap for that reason), we were lucky to find a matching set at Harris Tool for $3500. But that was 20 years ago Great lathe now, but not suited for Gunsmith Work.

One, the collet assy is part of the lathe, you would either have to make parts to get rid of it, or find something by way of Monarch. Two, the bed is quite short. Three, the older ones have their own built in generator and motor set-up, real antique stuff. Anything goes wrong, it will cost a fortune to convert it to a modern drive.

We converted ours to straight mechanicle drive by removing all of the originol equipment, taking the armature out of the motor, replacing it with a jackshaft, and coupling it to a variable speed PIV drive coming out the tailstock end. Works great. But we did everything in house. I cannot amagine what this would cost if you had to have it done.

We have the 6 station turret assy for ours, we use it more as a small turret lathe than we do an engine lathe.

Most of the ones you find now have been converted to some type of modern frequency drive, I think Monarch has their own in house program to do this.
 
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