Mod 70 trigger replacement

A

AK MAN

Guest
Guys:

I wanted to change my factory trigger to a jewell and wondered if anyone has done this and what I can expect. I have worked on the factory trigger some myself and can't seem to get it like I want it. Also got it so light it would go off when the safety was flipped off. I've read the posts on the Mod 70 trigger but still want to change to the jewell and have one on the way.

Is there substancial gunsmithing envolved? Have a friend helping me that has installed them on his Rem rifles.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thank you.
 
In my personal experience with one Model 70 Winchester rifle...

I basically had the same issue of getting the trigger light enough where I like the pull and little creep, but the safety would not work all of the time...way too dangerous.

I purchased the Jewell trigger that works with the factory safety and on mine is was a complete "drop in" conversion, with no alterations

Superior to the factory trigger and the safety system works flawless.

Good luck.

Tony
 
Jewell trigger in Model 70 Winchester (original by Winchester)

I have to date done five myself. Four took less than 30 minutes each by just following the instructions for install, adjust and test safety.

One took an additional 20 minutes to slightly reshape and polish the striker ramp for proper safety function. As it came from the factory, with the safety "on" pulling then releasing the trigger would result in the sear not resetting (engaging the striker lug) so that when the safety was subsequently moved to "fire" the striker would release and the gun would have fired. On this particular rifle this problem also occurred with the factory trigger and in part led to the owners desire to replace the trigger to begin with.

Note: I have done this correction on three other Winchester M-70s with factory triggers. All of these were made within the last two years of original Winchester factory production.

You will also have to widen the stock inlet to clear the protrusions on the sides of the Jewell (wider than the factory trigger). Depending on the bottom metal you may also have to lengthen (toward the rear) the cut for the trigger spur as the Jewell spur back edge will sit back slightly further than the original at maximum rearward travel.
 
Gentlemen:

Thank you very much for your replies. I've read so many threads that said how difficult they were to install. Your information makes me feel alot better.

I've been off of Benchrest Central for a couple of years and its good to be back. Very courteous and helpful people on this site.

Thank you again.
 
I installed one on a model 70 Coyote. In addition to a little wood removal to get the trigger to fit the stock, I had to grind a relief in the front of the trigger gaurd so the Jewel would function. Used a Dremel with about a 3/8" stone and did cut and try.
 
Scardy Cat

My Dad has an awesome set of TV repair tools....lol.

No worries - I can do this.

MLMC
 
Fred Bohl said:
You will also have to widen the stock inlet to clear the protrusions on the sides of the Jewell (wider than the factory trigger). Depending on the bottom metal you may also have to lengthen (toward the rear) the cut for the trigger spur as the Jewell spur back edge will sit back slightly further than the original at maximum rearward travel.
Click to expand...

I have put them on Pre-64 Model 70s and each one required removing some wood from the sides of the trigger well and modifying the opening in the trigger guard. Other than that, they worked perfectly. No problems at all with the safety functioning.

The factory trigger was not designed to have less than about a 2.5 pound pull. Getting some of them there can be tricky. Some have enough friction to have 2 or 3 pound pulls with the trigger spring exerting virtually no force, but this is not recommended.

If you want less than a 2.5 pound pull a custom trigger is best and the Jewell is top of the line.
 
Thanks for the words of confidence guys. I fooled around with the Mod 70 trigger last night. It is simple but will not get lower than 3.5 lbs for me and now its not safe. I have a jewell on the way.

Hey Spicoli.....I'm gonna let you fix it with your TV tools when the trigger arrives.

Thanks again everyone.

AK
 
Guys,

Couldn't wait so I put the trigger in. Had to do some Dremeling but its in and works fine with one exception. The safety will not engage. Mr. Bohl, could you be more specific about working on those safeties? Are there photos or diagrams about this. I have dropped the rifle on the butt of the stock hard several times and the rifle does not go off but I still would like the safety to engage.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Mr. Bohl:

I can't get the safety lever to move back or move at all. I don't know what makes the safety work.
 
Disassemble your bolt, remove the firing pin, do not disassemble the bolt shroud. Take the spring and spring step off the firing pin. Look at the cocking piece on the back of the firing pin. Do you see the notch cut in the cocking piece?

Now take the firing pin and slide it back into the bolt shroud. Move it back and forth in the shroud and try to engage the safety. Do you see that to engage the firing pin with the safety is dependent on the position of the firing pin and the cocking piece? So now if you have that fixed in your mind, lets start thinking about the sear in relation to the cocking piece.

I hope I'm getting though to you here.
 
Maybe the following diagram will help to identify the critical fit areas:

attachment.php


With the safety lever in the forward "fire" position, lifting the bolt handle rotates the bolt and the nose of the cocking piece will cam the cocking piece back compressing the firing pin spring, cocking the firing pin assembly and allowing the sear boss up through the sear clearance hole. When the bolt is rotated down to locked position, the firing pin assembly moves slightly forward until the sear ramp on the cocking piece engages the sear boss from the trigger which then restrains the firing pin.

From this cocked and locked condition, the safety is engaged by rotating the lever to the rear. A cam below the safety lever engages the safety cam surface of the cocking piece transferring the holding function from the trigger sear to the safety cam. The mid position holds the firing pin but allows the bolt to be rotated and removed while the rear position locks the firing pin assembly to the bolt via a locking pin that prevents bolt rotation and removal.

If the safety lever can not be rotated to the rear with the bolt mechanism in the cocked and locked position but the firing pin can be released using the trigger, the most likely problem is that the cocking piece has moved too far forward as the bolt is rotated to the down and locked position. That forward motion is controlled by the engagement of the cocking piece sear ramp and the sear boss.

Given that the new Jewell seems to work correctly but the previously working safety now doesn't, it would seem likely that we have the situation described in the last paragraph. Based on passed experience I would first check to see if the sear boss can get up through the sear clearance hole in the action floor. I've had to file corner clearance in the front (barrel) end of those holes so that the front edge is nearly square and full diameter of the hole (take care make sure to get clearance at the lower edge toward the trigger). After reinstalling the trigger, you will probably have to readjust the trigger for the greater sear travel.

If that does not correct the problem, the next likely culprit could be that too much material was removed from the front of the cocking piece sear ramp at final assembly fitting (this filling is done by factory fitter/assemblers for proper function to accommodate tolerance of the factory parts). Since you have replaced the factory sear the tolerance stack up is now different. The way to correct this problem would be to stone/file the cocking piece safety cam surface to restore the needed offset of that surface from the sear ramp for the safety cam to engage that surface.
 

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Mr. Bohl:

I think you are on to it. I'm going to do what you suggested. Thank you very much for all of your research and effort.

Going to get started now.

Charles
 
Mr. Bohl:

I put a piece of paper on the back and on top of the cocking boss to force the sear ramp back further. It worked. The safety would engage. However, when I pulled the trigger with safety on and then turned the safety off the rifle would fire. I then placed a piece of paper on the back and on top of the cocking boss. After that the safety would work as it should. I could pull the trigger with the safety on and then flip it off and the rifle would not fire. So it appears that the cocking boss is not high enough just like you said. That being said, that piece needs to come up about a .001 or two. I guess I need to take a little from the bottom of open sear hole. I just don't want to do too much. Any recommendations.

By the way, you nailed it. Thank you for narrowing my problem.

Charles
 
Jewel on a Winchester Super-Short Model 70

This thread is great and timely as I've just about got myself talked in to getting one. I don't want to hijack Ak Man's thread, but I have one simple question. Does the Super-Short action's trigger differ from a a normal Winchester trigger? Will the Model 70 Jewell trigger work on a Super-short action?
Thanks
Jim
 
jimfinn said:
This thread is great and timely as I've just about got myself talked in to getting one. I don't want to hijack Ak Man's thread, but I have one simple question. Does the Super-Short action's trigger differ from a a normal Winchester trigger? Will the Model 70 Jewell trigger work on a Super-short action?
Thanks
Jim
Click to expand...


Jim: If you look at the parts numbers, you only see one trigger for all the variations for the M-70. Go on line to Brownells and check out the drawings. Or just call Arnold's shop and ask them.
 
Just got back on line. Question for you guys. Can you raise that I guess what Mr. Bohl was calling a cocking boss? Is there any screw that will raise that up without having to trim metal. Mine needs to be raised up about the thickness of two pieces of paper. I guess I just need to call Jewell.
 
Winchester Model 70 Jewell Trigger Issues

AK MAN

Let us try another diagram for clarification.

attachment.php


From what you have said, first check/file the clearance hole in the action to make sure that the sear boss on the Jewell trigger is up fully when the trigger is reset.

If the cocking piece is too far forward for the safety to engage (won't turn toward the mid position from the OFF position), then you will have to disassemble the firing pin assembly and very lightly file/stone the safety cam surface to move it very slightly toward the rear while preserving the angle. Reassemble the firing pin and test for safety function (also see that the trigger can be released and will reset with the safety ON).

You may have to do this more than once but it is better to go a little at a time rather than taking off too much.
 

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Hey Mr. Bohl:

I called Jewell this morning and they told me the exact same thing that you are telling me. They said to file a little from the sear clearance hole so that the sear block will be high enough to engage the sear ramp on the bolt. That has got to be the problem. The sear block needs to be just a little higher. I will work on this tonight.

I want to thank you for the diagrams and your effort to help me with this project. Your illustrations have made everything easier for me.

I will let you know what happens.

Charles
 
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