Making neck bushings in a lathe ?

M

matchman

Guest
I have a lathe and need bushings (for 6ppc Redding die)....Seams like a simple silly thing not to make.
I have new un-used Redding Coated.256/.257/.258 That I cannot exchange (I need ..265./.266...anyone want to trade 3 for 2?)
Anyhow I noticed the production bushings are hardened. Is this really necessary for brass?
Any downfalls to homemade ?
Thanks
Adam
 
Matchman

Neck Bushings are just like dies, they work best when hardenned. It is not a "wear" thing, it is just that minute grit particles seem to adhere to non hardenned dies and bushings, you can see the results on the brass.

If you do decide to make one, go to an auto shop and get a main bearing bolt, most are "grade nine", and are fairly hard, but not nearly so as a case hardenned or TiN coated bushing.

My other choice would be Stress Proof, which is a relative free machining steel with a fairly high carbon content. For some reason, it has a great anti-gall quality. I have made a neck bushing out of Stress Proof in a pinch......jackie
 
I make them from O-1, oil hardening drill rod. They are coated with "anti-scale" compound, then heated until they are non-magnetic and then quenched in real quenching oil. After the glass-like coating is removed (wire brush), I draw them to a light straw color and polish the interior.

Works for me,

Jay, Idaho
 
Jay said:
I make them from O-1, oil hardening drill rod. They are coated with "anti-scale" compound, then heated until they are non-magnetic and then quenched in real quenching oil. After the glass-like coating is removed (wire brush), I draw them to a light straw color and polish the interior.

Works for me,

Jay, Idaho
Click to expand...

I have made many bushings from O-1 and 20 years later they still
work fine. I might add that when making a bushing, it should not be
removed from the lathe untill its complete. Turn the O.D. and Face,
Bore it and finish the hole, slightly undersize. Then cut it off, with
a slight undercut towards the center, do not use a parting tool. Both
the face and back must be parallel and flat.
 
Bob, how would you "cut if off" without using a parting tool, and why not face the cut off end in a second operation after the od, outer face and id are established. Moreover, how would you get the length right without reversing an facing after parting? I'm confused?
 
Turn OD and face, bore and finish the radius. Without removing the
piece go back beyond your finished length and turn the od down
nearly say 80% thru. You are facing the back side parallel to the
front face and flat with fine cuts.When the length is correct and
the rear face has a good finish, you can cut it thru. Turn it around
and remove the remaining material with a slight undercut without
touching the rear face. This leaves a bushing that will have both ends
parallel. Parting tools notoriously give a poor finish and rarely are flat.
It is that end which must seat itself against the top of the die when
sizing.If it is not perpindicular to the bore , it will tilt and misalign the neck.
The top that screws in is often less than square, with nuts and spacers.
That also adds to the error.
 
I've made some bushings using O-1, but A-2 is much simpler to heat treat. All you need to do is heat it up, and let it cool. No warp from quenching, and no scale to deal with. It's higher priced to buy, but worth it in my mind.

Jim Carstensen
 
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