Lock-Ease???

S

skeetlee

Active member
Fellas while i was in ST Louis i over herd some fellas talking about using Lock-Ease in there rifle barrels. I was in NAPA this morning and i saw some sitting on the shelf so i purchased it. it was only 3 bucks so no big deal. What i am wondering now is whats the scoop with this Lock-Ease stuff and rifle barrels? Just looking for some advise on this stuff. Thanks Lee
 
Napa

Kevin and the rest of the crew,
Does it matter what brand of Lock Ease it is? I have the NAPA brand. I didnt know if there is a special ingredient that makes this stuff what it is. All my bottle says is Graphited lock fluid. It doesnt seem to be anything special. Please advise. Lee
 
Lee
It is supplied in 2 forms--aerosol and liquid--most use the liquid---bottle needs shaking before use as the graphite tends to concentrate at the bottom.
Clean your gun as usual-dry the barrel- then pass a patch that has 3-4 drops through barrel- some use streight pass through and some use back-forth action and your through.
You can store your gun with this in bore for 1-4 weeks but if plan on storing gun longer I would use "good old oil".
I cant comment on any other forms of graphite nor have I used or seen anything else used.
CLP
 
ummmmm, patch it out DRY and the first shot goes in the group too...... 'course shooting nekkid and dry is a sin to the rank and file but hey.....

al
 
Quite the amazing thing.
I was using Break-free. Close, but not close enough.
2-3 drops. And the first one is usually in the group or starts the group. But, it is on the sighter....
I was told most of the carrier evaporates. Leaving graphite.
And this Engineer. Said the quality of the graphite has improved the last few years. So he stopped making his own.
 
I have not tired that yet but I have tried the moly in a spray can. I just spray it on a patch and run it through the dry barrel.
Cant tell you yet whether it works better or not. I have not used it consistently.
 
Hmmmmmmm....... My fist shot always starts my groups,,,, its the other 4 i worry about.....;).
 
If i ever get a decent zero group going i have a plan. After i fire 4 shots, i'll run a patch of lock eze thru the barrel, and that shot always goes in the group, so how can i go wrong.

Later
Dave
 
Dave, I hope you are not under water again. I see that Iowa has had some more flooding problems. See you in KC. James
 
Thanks for asking James. Nothing serious yet. Seems as though every time it rains in this State someone gets 5 or 6" I don't need another 2008. All the old records then were within a tenth or two of the 1961 flood. The flood of 2008 surpassed 1961 by 5 1/2 feet.

KC sounds like a winner.

Later
Dave
 
No,no,no....

Dave,Dave,Dave,....
you got it all wrong buddy!!!
You gotta do it after every shot that way your guaranteed you shoot tiny groups, k, not just on the last shot...
Let me know how it works out for ya k....
 
FBecigneul said:
Why not just dip each boooooollllleetttt in it???
Click to expand...

You might end up with a cracked action. Dipping bullets in Mobil lubricant was the cause of many ruined Sprinfield match rifles, when the lube migranted down around the necks causing excessive pressure, or slicked up the chamber walls causing excessive back thrust when fired. Likely a combination of both.

Anyway I figured I should add that when making up some cat sneeze round ball loads for a Airweight .38 that had lain buried in a lake bottom for years I seated the ball below the case mouth and smeared Door- Ease lubricant around the inside of the case mouth.
It worked fine for a very low velocity bullet lube, can't say I know how it would work at normal pressures and velocities, and as a beneficial side effect every shot cleared more and more recalricant crud from the bore.

The Nickel plating of frame and alloy cylinder had turned into a fragile crust during its years in the mud, but the steel barrel was chromed and retained most of its plating.
Where the rust had gotten through the plating near the muzzle a very hard crust had formed that no solvent or penetrating oil had any effect on. After firing several dozen rounds of the Door Ease lubed balls that crust disappeared anf the entire bore looked shiny and sharp as if lapped. Where the crusted rust had been there was some surface pitting showing but not nearly as much as the size and thickness of the crust would make you think there would be.
 
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