Lead removal

Shooters Choice

I like the Shooter's choice and it seems to work BUT the best way, I have found, is JB paste and elbow grease.
 
Birchwood Casey makes a lead removal cloth you can cut into patches and it works great.Not as much elbow grease as JB cleaner.
 
get the lead out

A1712
I’m going to jump in here on this. At our last match before our summer shutdown my rifle started to sling lead bad. A gun that will shoot groups in the very low 70’s to 90’s was now throwing shots all over the target. It was so bad I quit shooting and helped scoring targets. When I got home I striped the gun down. Checked the firing pin, spring ,head space everything. It all was ok. I removed the barrel from the gun ran a few wet patches through the bore than a dry patch. Looked ok. I ran another wet patch and OMG. The barrel looked like it had pimples down the bore. It was lead lots and lots of lead .Right in front of the chamber it had a streak about two inches long. And all down the tube was lead. I inspected the bullets I was using and there was no lube on them. One box out of a case. No lube. I talked to my gun smith. He said if it’s that bad JB or isso will not work. It’s abrasive and could do harm to the barrel trying to remove that much lead. He said use chemicals. Regular gun cleaning solvents were not going to work. I found this stuff called no lead from sharp shooter. I used that along with wipeout & patchout. It did not work as advertised. It stated on the container to use a patch soaked in no lead let it set for 15 minutes than use a patch soaked in wipe out patch out. They said it was brushless. No it’s not. After going through 1500 patches,7 bronzes brushes and hours of work it is clean. No lead. That stuff also took out all of the carbon. It does work but it ain’t easy, but it works. My barrel now looks like a mirror. I just hope like hell it shoots. Sorry for the long explanation just thought you’d like to know.
Russ
 
Take Mike Cameron's advice and it will save you a lot of brushing and patching. chief
 
Hey chief

Take Mike Cameron's advice and it will save you a lot of brushing and patching. chief

I couldn't respond to your post on RA so I will let you know here I have been thinking and praying for you, hope you are getting better.
Mike Cameron
 
I guess it wouldn't be appropriate to mention mercury??
As bad as it is, It's still the very best lead remover that I've ever seen. PERIOD!
 
Thanks Mike

Birchwood Casey makes a lead removal cloth you can cut into patches and it works great.Not as much elbow grease as JB cleaner.



I somehow remembered I had some of the Birchwood Casey some place and found it after a bit. Ernie J had recommended it to me a couple of years ago. Somehow, it got covered up with other stuff. Anyway, I tried some today and sure enough, it works! Also found I had more lead that I would have thought in this new barrel.

Pete
 
Is mercury available?

Pete

Pete,
No, not that I know of. Mercury is considered a highly toxic chemical. It was used years ago, in those large old fashioned glass thermometers ... with the silver liquid substance. I personally wouldn't mess with it. John
 
Outters used to have the electrolysis chemical cleaning system ( foul-out). I do not know if it is still available, I have one it does work. two different anodes one for lead one for copper fouling.
 
Foul-Out units have been discontinued, due to lack of sales. This is a pity, as they work very well on lead fouling, and less well on copper. However, do-it-yourself versions (including the chemicals) are popular, instructions for making both are at http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/copperout/index.asp .

Not sure about homemade cleaners, but in Foul-Out version 1, lead came out in flakes for heavily fouled guns, probably with additional lead in solution. IIRC, the bottled cleaning solution was lead acetate (hazmat). Be careful of disposing of used cleaning solution, as it is also considered hazmat. Fortunately, a typical cleaning session (1 treatment) doesn't generate much, and a bottle full (salad dressing sized) may cost you about $5 to dispose of at your local hazmat facility, provided the contents are labeled appropriately (i.e., contains water, ammonia, and lead and copper). Check with local hazmat disposal for rates, labeling, etc.

Hope this helps.
 
Foul Out II question

I have a foul Out II and solvent. I tried using it recently and found that the Clean light comes on very quickly. Could this mean that my solvent has gone bad or is the electric unit faulty? I tried it in a barrel that I could see lead residue in and it went almost immediately to "Clean"

Thanks,

Pete
 
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