Lapping how-to questions

Fred.............................................. ..................

Great point!! The only reason I had mine lapped was that it had quit shooting. The barrel is an 18-2 twist that had shot great for several years and seemed to steadily regress to a point of where it wasn't competitive anymore. I bought a drop-in match barrel that I wasted hundreds of rounds on trying to get it to shoot, as a last resort I called the barrel maker of the 18-2 barrel and ask him to see what they could do with it...I had had it recrowned and re-chambered and it didn't seem to help. Afer the lapping the barrel is the best rifle I have ever shot...and that's saying a lot!! That 18-2 twist always loved this hot Georgia weather and hard wind....it will be interesting to see how it shoots at Bristol.
 
To Tim and Markbo

Tim said, Really Cec? Chet Amick, for instance, had several barrels he did that came to him unlapped. He put all the taper he wanted in the bore with his lap, from rough to finish, i.e. a completely different and uniform pattern, so holster you caps lock back up there sparky.
I didn't say you couldn't lap taper into a bore. This can be done. How easily it can be done and how effective it will be, depends on what condition the bore was in before you started. Amick's bores may have been fine before he started, but they just didn't have enough taper. He might correct this by lapping the whole bore so he got uniform non-uniformty! (Now, now, Tim hold on there!!!)

Markbo asked pacecil, I am a little confused by your post. By what you said all lapping will do is remove tight spots. So by that, your opinion is that it is not possible to do/add/change an existing barrel to a tapered bore profile?
See what I said above to Tim.
Here's some questions for you and Tim:
If you had a tight spot that was caused by shallow grooves, what would you do to your lap to make it lap material only from the bottom of the grooves?
If you had a tight spot caused by just a tight bore, how would you lap that out without also deepening the grooves?
After lapping in only one spot in a barrel, how do you insure that the change you caused to the rifling form is also applied to that area of the bore you didn't lap in?
 
....After lapping in only one spot in a barrel, how do you insure that the change you caused to the rifling form is also applied to that area of the bore you didn't lap in?....

You can't. You could look at it with a bore scope to see what it looks like in both places, but you could not ensure it is uniform without lapping the whole barrel - and even then if you apply a taper bore you are by definition making one end not like the other.

Fred K - I know, I know... I can see nothing but poor results coming from me messing with it. :p Maybe I can find another factory barrel that has not been touched at all, just to practice on.
 
Tested the lapped barrel again today.....same results...shoots great!! My understanding is that if there is a constant tapper with a bore of .2215 or smaller and .217 grooves at the muzzle it can be saved. There seems to be many ideas for lapping...some use valve grinding compound and finish-up with Semi-chrome or Wenol polish.{The spelling may not be correct} For $30.00 I think your better off having a professional do the job. I would like to have a dime for every rimfire barrel that someone said was shot-out only to come back on another rifle a winner. I and many others believe that more damage is done by cleaning than a lead bullet going down a steel barrel ever would!!
Can you give me the contact to the barrel lapper for the 30.00 pro job.

Theron
escbowhunt@bellsouth.net
 
Tim said, Really Cec? Chet Amick, for instance, had several barrels he did that came to him unlapped. He put all the taper he wanted in the bore with his lap, from rough to finish, i.e. a completely different and uniform pattern, so holster you caps lock back up there sparky.
I didn't say you couldn't lap taper into a bore. This can be done. How easily it can be done and how effective it will be, depends on what condition the bore was in before you started. Amick's bores may have been fine before he started, but they just didn't have enough taper. He might correct this by lapping the whole bore so he got uniform non-uniformty! (Now, now, Tim hold on there!!!)

Markbo asked pacecil, I am a little confused by your post. By what you said all lapping will do is remove tight spots. So by that, your opinion is that it is not possible to do/add/change an existing barrel to a tapered bore profile?
See what I said above to Tim.
Here's some questions for you and Tim:
If you had a tight spot that was caused by shallow grooves, what would you do to your lap to make it lap material only from the bottom of the grooves?
If you had a tight spot caused by just a tight bore, how would you lap that out without also deepening the grooves?
After lapping in only one spot in a barrel, how do you insure that the change you caused to the rifling form is also applied to that area of the bore you didn't lap in?

He lapped many barrels, some to add taper, some to change dimension as well as adding taper.
As to your questions, I think if you test, [and you can] you will find the height of the lands in lapped match barrels, is pretty constant. A tight spot, past a certain point, is an exercise in futility, notice I said past a certain point. Someone like Chester learned you could lap anything into a barrel with 2 primary requirements,you are generally not going to make an out of round bore round, and if you do not have parameters as to the dimensions in the bore before you start, to get where you want you are either going to lapp the rifling out of it or end up with a bore too large that will not seal effectivly.
 
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