kroil and a hard lesson learned

S

savet06

Mike Suhie
I wanted to post this information that is most likely known to those who have "been there and done that", but as a new guy in this sport was new to me.
I maintain my equipment to as near new condition as possible, and have followed all the tenets espoused from various sources regarding a stripped bolt for checking headspace, regular cleaning/lubrication of the bolt, chamber, barrel, etc...
In my ignorance I had been using Kroil to clean off any powder residue that may have settled in the firing pin mechanism (I do use a proper bolt lube for the locking lugs and cocking ramp), and, in my thinking, would leave behind a thin layer of lubrication that wouldn't slow lock time afford protection against rust at the same time. This was done by placing a few drops of Kroil onto a cleaning patch and wiping down the firing pin and related parts...in other words NOT a lot of product was being used.
After a season of competition and regular cleaning I noticed that as I inserted the firing pin mechanism into the bolt body the last 1/4" showed resistance. I noticed scratch marks on the forward spring-holding bevel and contacted BAT who discovered that the kroil had turned into a varnish inside the bolt body and on the firing pin spring.
Just thought I would pass this on as it Kroil seems so benign to someone of my knowledge base, but who knows what that could have done to my bolt and my scores over time. This is not meant to knock Kroil in any way as I know that it has been used for years in other applications and does well in those situations.
I would also like to take this opportunity to speak to the great service by Bruce at BAT. Excellent communication and he took the time to type a great email describing the issue and how it was solved.
Mike
 
Mike:
Any Hydrocarbon based lub, will varnish after a while. I always degrease the interior of the bolt body and never lub the FP. Thanks for the reminder.
 
I dont like Kroil just for that very reason. I think its a useless product. Well not useless but darn close. the only thing i use it for now, is to help brake in a new barrel. Mr Walt Berger told me to keep a lite film of Kroil inside my barrel while doing a one shot and clean barrel treatment. The idea is to cut down on copper fouling. It seems to work for that. I know a lot of folks really like Kroil, Im just not one of them. It gums up really fast!! I do however like the smell, so i keep a can in the bathroom for after a shower! LOL!!! Sorry you messed your bolt up man. i wouldnt have thought that could have happened. Lee
 
Thanks, guys.
Fortunately, the bolt was able to be saved, but what it got me thinking about was use in the bore and more specifically in the forward part of the chamber. I used it to help lube the bore prior to JB, per the instructions, and have read about what you mentioned, Lee, with regards to powder fouling during break in. I used so little of it on my firing pin mechanism it just got me thinking about other parts and in particular the space between the case mouth and the end of the chamber. I know that there is a bit of a difference with regard to heat between the two locations (bolt body and chamber), but I wonder how much crud accumulates in that area because of it. May be a non-issue because of combustion, but it makes a fella wonder.
It would be nice if there was a reference for what lubes to use and not to use based on application. I have a general idea for most applications, but something as simple as my mistake could have ruined a beautiful action if used improperly. It could be as simple as defining a location on the gun and listing proper lubes to use and lubes to avoid. It might help someone else avoid an issue like this in the future.
Mike
 
Thanks, John. The tough part is the rest of the claim where it says cleans, lubricates, and rust prevention.
I was thinking more along the lines of a "Firearms do's and don'ts of cleaning and lubrication" type of listing available here and on other sites...as an easy reference.
Maybe someone with more of a grasp on the issue than I have will start a list.
 
Thanks John for the address on kroil. I and most of my Team went to kroil after starting to use moly. The first I heard of it was from Walt Berger, relating to it would stop the build up or choke at the throat. Seemed to work for us. Have never used it for lub and always finished with Hoppies.

Cheers
 
Strange, I've used Kroil as my last wet patch followed by a dry patch at the end of each cleaning cycle for my benchrest rifles since the mid nineties with no problems. I've never noticed any buildup or reduced performance in any of them.

virg
 
Mike,
For a light lubricant, Rem oil is good. Too slick in fact for some things. When it was new, I used it on a Browning A5 magazine tube, friction ring, and spring. When set for heavy loads, even light loads would cycle the action! Had to degrease & buy a new friction ring to get it back to normal.

WD40 will dry out and form a residue. Krill is more for cleaning. JMHO.
Regards,
Ron
 
Kroil is at its best when cleaning carbon deposits from the bore. I use break free clp for light film lubrication and rust protection, on the firing pin spring a light coat of grease, mainly synthetic just because work provides it for free.
 
Every time I take a rifle to Eddie Harren he just looks over to see if he has enough carb cleaner to degrease the rifle. I am very sloppy with oil and solvents and manage to get the stuff everywhere.

What was said about petroleum products turning to varnish is the same issue that happens with the recoil spring on a Browning Gold shotgun. After about 2-3 years the gun starts failing to fully cycle. You disassemble it and pull the spring and strip off the factory lube and relube and you are GTG.

Bought a NITB Glock and the lub on the rails had solidified while it was in the store and it would not cycle. Stripped all of the lube off the slide and put on fresh and it has never failed since.
 
Wanted to post an update on the bolt and lube situation. The lube that Bruce sent me is called tw25b, is made by mil-comm.com and is a "military grade" lubricant. I was able to find it at midway and sinclair as well as the manufacturer's site. Needless to say the bolt is cylcing much more smoothly now and I am happy to have it home. There is supposed to be a break in the cold weather this weekend and I am hoping to get some of the cobwebs out.
Mike
 
Mike I have used Kroil in the past and more so because there was so much talked about it. It is okay but I was never impressed with it.

I recently switched to EEZOX as per many tests with it done on the other forum and its rust inhibiting capabilities. The RCMP also did a bunch of testing in there Labs and it is there lube of choice for firearms as well. A little on a patch is the last thing through my bore before I go to the line. I like the fact that with EEZOX you do not get that oily feel. For longer storage I use Butch's gun oil. It work's great under the armpits as well........................... :=O

I also need to get some of TW25b as I got a small sample with my last Bat action. It appears to be GREAT stuff as well.

Calvin
 
B J Atkinson said:
You are right there mate - I wonder if I marketed an after shave lotion that smelled like Kroil, would it sell well? Perhaps around machine shops and rifle ranges it might!


Brendan Atkinson
Click to expand...
Maybe a perfume that smells like Kroil, or Marvel Mystery Oil would sell, but I'm thinking as an aftershave, you might be scared with the results. :eek:
 
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