Jewell trigger problems

S

Steve Lee

Active member
I've been having problems with two different Jewell triggers. Both triggers (at some point) have been sent back to Jewell for cleaning and repair, one of them just last year. Both are doing exactly the same thing.

The problem is that sometimes the firing pin drops when I close the bolt. Actually it's most of the time as of Saturday. I found that if I jiggle the trigger shoe before closing the bolt it will hold the firing pin. This really bugs me because I don't see anything in the Jewell trigger diagram showing how the trigger shoe is pushed up to engage the sear.

I've read the instructions for adjusting sear engagement, and I'm probably going to give it a try, but I'm wondering if I should buy a new trigger.

Help! :confused:
 
Sounds like you might have some adjustment issues. Did you follow the directions when you adjusted them? Also, did you clean them yourself? It isn't very difficult.
 
Steve, as to the"older" Jewel triggers, following the instructions exactly will solve most problems of malfunction. I can't speak to the newer ones since I don't own any. (I do not trade guns with old Jewel triggers in them-I keep the older triggers.)

I know that to compensate for manufacturing errors in the newer Jewell triggers, action makers like Kelblys, make trigger hangars with different offsets. This solves many trigger problems in Pandas and Grizzlys.

If your actions are Kelblys, call Jim and see what he says. The Kelbly triggers I have seem to be more solid in their functioning.

As to bolt jiggling after the action is cocked, a lot of actions will fire. A solution to some of this is to set the sear engagement deeper because all bolts have some slop in the action.

Jiggling the shoe helping, you may also have the pull spring set too light. Anyhoo, go through the adjustment instructions first. Each action is different by a few thousants.

Hi to Ralphie!!!
 
I have been studying triggers quite carefully in the last few months because I am wanting to do some Remington trigger conversions and have been trying to come up with the best design possible without modifying the Remington housing.

What Jerry says about bolt jiggle is very true. Almost every trigger I have had my hands on will fire if the bolt is partially raised and lowered a few times, especially if it is done quickly.

The fact is the only trigger that I have that won't is a Jewel. I have worked it every way I could think of and can't make it fire.

I don't think any of them would go off under normal competition use, but the working the bolt is death to them.

As for your Jewel not cocking, you did not mention what pull weight you are set at, but the trigger pull weight needs to be lighter than the force exerted by the return spring. If we are talking a 2 ounce trigger then I would think the sear engagement would have to be too heavy or the trigger is dirty and not moving freely.

Jewell recommends cleaning with lighter fluid and no lubrication there after. You can remove one side plate and take a look with out much fear of parts going every where.

Gary
 
Try adjusting...

Steve Lee said:
I've read the instructions for adjusting sear engagement, and I'm probably going to give it a try, but I'm wondering if I should buy a new trigger.

Help! :confused:
Click to expand...

After you clean the trigger with lighter fluid, try adjusting the trigger from the beginning per instructions and let us know how it comes out.

virg
 
I just re-examined the diagram and previously had failed to notice the spring that returns the trigger shoe to engaged the sear. Both of these triggers were working fine until the last couple of weeks, and since jiggling the trigger shoe fixes the problem, I'm guessing the spring on the pull adjustment is probably weak and needs adjusting.

The only gadget I have for measuring pull is an RCBS pull gauge that isn't sensitive enough to check a 1.5 ounce trigger. Googleing trigger pull gauges, Lyman has one that claims to be accurate to +-.1 oz over a 12 lb range. Is this a good gauge?

Once I get a gauge, should I follow all of the Jewell trigger adjustment instructions or just jump straight to adjusting the pull adjustment screw? After all, these trigger have been working just fine until the last couple of weeks.

Thanks.
 
Steve you should be able to adjust the trigger well enough to diagnose the problem with out a trigger pull gauge. Without the bolt cocked you should be able to pull the trigger shoe and watch it return to the stop when you let go. If it does, that is not a problem. The sear adjustment could be to light not allowing it to cock or to heavy doing the same. If the trigger shoe is not returning just tighten the screw in the bottom of the trigger shoe until it does. Then go through the adjustment procedures. They are quite easy and straight forward.

Once the trigger is working properly you can worry about the pull weight.

If your are talking about the Lyman digital pull gauge I have one and think it is great.

Thanks Gary
 
Steve, A cheep fix that works

Steve, go to any fishing store and look at their assortment of lead weights. Get a a couple of large fish hooks too. With a little mono-filament between the two hooks you put one hook on the trigger and start adding weights to the other hook. This will be close enough and allow you to get a good trigger pull.
You pick the weights, 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, etc. :)
Centerfire
 
Centerfire said:
Steve, go to any fishing store and look at their assortment of lead weights. Get a a couple of large fish hooks too. With a little mono-filament between the two hooks you put one hook on the trigger and start adding weights to the other hook. This will be close enough and allow you to get a good trigger pull.
You pick the weights, 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, etc. :)
Centerfire
Click to expand...

Good idea, but too late...I just ordered a Lyman gauge from Midsouth Shooter Supply.
 
Ot

Steve: I've had that same problem, and solved it by allowing a tad more Overtravel to the trigger. Too little sear engagement is also a problem. Flush with Lighter Fluid and allow to air dry. I keep a can of compress air in my cleaning box if I need to dry it out quicker.
 
Issues are not a problem

This is yet another reason I stick with Borden Rifles. I know that at any time I can hand/ship/send the rifle to Jim and he will tune it up for me.

Adrian
 
Fred J said:
Steve: I've had that same problem, and solved it by allowing a tad more Overtravel to the trigger. Too little sear engagement is also a problem. Flush with Lighter Fluid and allow to air dry. I keep a can of compress air in my cleaning box if I need to dry it out quicker.
Click to expand...

Already tried the flush and blow dry route. I'm headed toward a complete re-adjust right now.
 
AVanGorder said:
This is yet another reason I stick with Borden Rifles. I know that at any time I can hand/ship/send the rifle to Jim and he will tune it up for me.

Adrian
Click to expand...

I always try to fix the problem myself before sending it to my gunsmith (Billy Stevens). Billy would be glad to do it, but when I add up shipping costs and time both ways, and having to do without the gun for a week or more, it's almost always worth giving it a shot myself.

Besides...if I started shooting a Borden gun now, Billy would disown me! :D
 
Some things I've found that will.............

definitely cause triggers to get screwy and cause the condition known as follow-down, and these were on non glue-in applications.

Use of the "old" Hoippe's No. 9 (which will turn to a gummy mess.)
Storing the rifle on its butt.
adjusting the trigger in the summer, not the winter.

Storing the rifle on the butt will allow lots of crud, even with "cleaned" and dried rifles, to migrate, through capillary action, down the action screws, depositing gunk on Remingtons (and other round-bottoms) from stockline to stockline, and from recoil lug to the tang.

This junk will get into the trigger, while its on its way everywhere else it ISN'T supposed to be. And, if combined w/the old standby, Hoppe's No.9, it gums EVERYthing up. I imagine there are other things out there that will perform the same function as that product, but I used to see this most frequently w/Hoppe's.

I tried taking a rifle I'd adjusted the trigger on in the summer, when it was installed, shooting in the winter. The trigger followed down. But, when it was home, warm n' cozy, it wouldn't act like that. What I then did, was to leave it where it was cold, for 24Hrs. then adjusted it to where it gave the same performance as it did in the summer; haven't had any problems like that since. What I do now is, as a matter of SOP, is to cryogenically process all the triggers I had, and any new ones I get. (Iknow, I KNOW, that S?><|_)(*T:eek: doesn't work, but I do it anyway.:)http://metal-wear.com/) I have not had ONE instance of this problem since. ;) HTH :)
 
Steve,
I had the same problem 2 years ago. Turned out to be the trigger hanger was a little too tight putting a "squeeze" on the trigger. A slight filing inside the hanger sides cleared it up, haven't had the problem since.

Al
 
Somewhere in the recent past there was a post that went into removing the side plate and detailing the various parts.
 
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