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Peter
Guest
Can someone recommend a good ID threading tool setup? Want to try and make an action from a blank. THX
Bob Pastor
New member
Hi Peter,
The Arthur R. Warner Co., located in Latrobe, Pa. has what you need. 1-724-539-9229 ask for Mike Warner.
The Arthur R. Warner Co., located in Latrobe, Pa. has what you need. 1-724-539-9229 ask for Mike Warner.
J
Jim Kobe
Guest
I have a Kennametal with lay down inserts, It is perfect for what you want it for but I can't remember the number; if you like I can look it up. Bought it from MSC.
C
Cheechako
Guest
Those that know me or read any of my posts, must know that I like doing things the simple way. KISS.
Cutting action threads is probably going to be a one-time deal with possibly a few thread truing jobs thrown in. I can't see why a special (expensive) set-up is called for. I'd use an Aloris type tool post with a beefy boring bar (5/8" or bigger) and your favorite type of insert. You probably have all of that in your tool drawer already.
JMHO
Ray
Cutting action threads is probably going to be a one-time deal with possibly a few thread truing jobs thrown in. I can't see why a special (expensive) set-up is called for. I'd use an Aloris type tool post with a beefy boring bar (5/8" or bigger) and your favorite type of insert. You probably have all of that in your tool drawer already.
JMHO
Ray
J
Jim Kobe
Guest
Yeah right! GOOD thinking Ray, do it the old way! I have done that in the past but I've got to say, it sure is nice to use this bar and I've done more than just a few with it.
I like the round (cylindrical) boring bars in an Aloris style holder. These bars use replaceable HSS toolbit stock. You can easily grind and rotate for any approach you want. I use a small telescoping/swiveling automotive inspection mirror to set it up on the backside threading OUT. This allows me to creep in to an exact depth (I use a long dial indicator for this) to start exactly the same every time and trip the threading lever to GO at the critical part instead of to STOP.
Remember to run the lathe in reverse. I attach a blocking lever to my engagement handle to keep me from inadvertantly starting the chuck the "normal" way. I had one crash, this taught me to block the handle. Cool thing is, you can play with speeds and never have to worry about crashing.
al
Remember to run the lathe in reverse. I attach a blocking lever to my engagement handle to keep me from inadvertantly starting the chuck the "normal" way. I had one crash, this taught me to block the handle. Cool thing is, you can play with speeds and never have to worry about crashing.
al